Rear Drum Removal Help.
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Junior User
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Rear Drum Removal Help.
Hi All,
I'm running into a bit of a problem removing the rear axle flange on my 1969 F250 4x4. I've removed the axle flange bolts and according to this posting (The FORDification.com Forums • View topic - 1972 F250 12"x2.5" Bendix rear drum brake rebuild: advice?) smacking the raised portion of the axle flange should release the flange from the drum. I've done this with a 2lb hammer, but still the flange refuses to come off (image 1). Does anyone have any additional recommendations on how to remove this?
One interesting thing is, as you'll see in image 2, is that the drum is stamped fomoco! Either this is the original drum or they Previous owner replaced parts with Original Equipment.
Image 1
Image 2
I'm running into a bit of a problem removing the rear axle flange on my 1969 F250 4x4. I've removed the axle flange bolts and according to this posting (The FORDification.com Forums • View topic - 1972 F250 12"x2.5" Bendix rear drum brake rebuild: advice?) smacking the raised portion of the axle flange should release the flange from the drum. I've done this with a 2lb hammer, but still the flange refuses to come off (image 1). Does anyone have any additional recommendations on how to remove this?
One interesting thing is, as you'll see in image 2, is that the drum is stamped fomoco! Either this is the original drum or they Previous owner replaced parts with Original Equipment.
Image 1
Image 2
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
With the 8 nuts removed the axle should pull out, may need to drive a thin blade tip screw driver between the axle flange hub to help break the seal loose. Then pull axle out. To remove drum remove axle bearing nut pull drum & hub off. Better re read your manual..
before you damage something now or putting it back together.. orich
before you damage something now or putting it back together.. orich
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,209
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From: Black Hills of SD
You were doing it right, just not a big enough hammer. I usually leave the nuts on in case I strike a glancing blow I don't wipe out a stud. Those things that look like washers are actually cones that need to be unseated (called dowel washers)
Use a 4-6 lb. hammer and don't be afraid to lay into it.
On the style that do actually just use a lock washer (not a dowel washer) you can do like orich suggested, they should come right off once you break the gasket seal.
Use a 4-6 lb. hammer and don't be afraid to lay into it.
On the style that do actually just use a lock washer (not a dowel washer) you can do like orich suggested, they should come right off once you break the gasket seal.
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Thanks for the advice guys. I just went outside for round 2. I think I'm going to need a larger hammer. Even after letting loose on it (and I've done blacksmith work before) the axle flange is still not budging. I cannot believe how strong of a hold the flange has on the axle 
In your experience working on these, have you guys experienced the same? I'm really smacking this thing hard.
Thanks again for the help on this!!!
In your experience working on these, have you guys experienced the same? I'm really smacking this thing hard.
Thanks again for the help on this!!!
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Junior User
Joined: May 2012
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You were doing it right, just not a big enough hammer. I usually leave the nuts on in case I strike a glancing blow I don't wipe out a stud. Those things that look like washers are actually cones that need to be unseated (called dowel washers)
Use a 4-6 lb. hammer and don't be afraid to lay into it.
On the style that do actually just use a lock washer (not a dowel washer) you can do like orich suggested, they should come right off once you break the gasket seal.
Use a 4-6 lb. hammer and don't be afraid to lay into it.
On the style that do actually just use a lock washer (not a dowel washer) you can do like orich suggested, they should come right off once you break the gasket seal.
Hey willowbilly3,
Thanks for the advice. Just to make sure I'm doing it right, I should be hitting the face of the axle flange where the raised section (Looks like this --> --o--). Striking this should release the dowel washers due to the forward back motion of the impact.
Do I understand this correctly?
Thanks Again!!!
Jason
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
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From: The hills of No. Calif.
I always got the best results by smacking the flange right on the edge next to each of the studs with about a 3-pound single-jack. Usually one good hit by each stud would be enough to pop out the cone washer, and I'd sometimes get several to pop out at one time. I just keep the one I'm working on at the top and rotate the drum around as I go. It may be that someone had yours off before and used some sealer on the gasket that doesn't want to give it up. Also, those cone washers could be somewhat rusted in place and you need something better than WD-40 to penetrate and dissolve the rust.
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Post Fiend
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From: Black Hills of SD
I always got the best results by smacking the flange right on the edge next to each of the studs with about a 3-pound single-jack. Usually one good hit by each stud would be enough to pop out the cone washer, and I'd sometimes get several to pop out at one time. I just keep the one I'm working on at the top and rotate the drum around as I go. It may be that someone had yours off before and used some sealer on the gasket that doesn't want to give it up. Also, those cone washers could be somewhat rusted in place and you need something better than WD-40 to penetrate and dissolve the rust.
Yes I hit right in the middle but try TigerDans method. It almost always works to hit a side blow on a tapered fixture, sure works on tie rods anyways, haven't use a pickle fork in so long I doubt I could find them.
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Junior User
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Thanks for the help guys, I was able to pop them off today. I soaked them in liquid wrench over night, picked up a 4lb hammer afterwards and then gave the axle flange a mild smack and the dowel washers came flying out
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