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Replacing 351W any upgrades should make??

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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 02:31 PM
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Replacing 351W any upgrades should make??

The truck is a 1990 F250 4X2 Standard Cab, Log Bed with a 5 speed ZF manual tranny and the largest Dana rear diff I think was avail at the time. The tired original fuel injected 351W has bad main crank bearings and is going to be in need of replacement.

I am going to replace with a remanufactured 351W but since the mechanic will have engine out and everything off it are there any performance upgrades I should make without breaking the bank? I dont want to turn in into a hot rod but maybe improve fuel economy and give it a little extra boost for towing etc. Here is what I was thinking. Oh yeah the truck does NOT have to be emissions tested in Georgia. CATs have already been removed.

1. Exhaust manifolds will most likely be shot so I was going to put a set of shory truck headers on it and upgrade the exhaust.
2. Upgrade complete Air Intake to K&N or similar.
3. Would it make sense to upgrade the intake manifold or does this also create a lot of added work with the fuel delivery etc.?
4. Anything else I am missing?

THanks!!
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 02:38 PM
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Change the cam, if you put back a motor with the same stock cam in it you're not going to see any benefits from the other upgrades either.. the stock cam in this vintage truck motor is sad to put it mildly. The Crane 444232 flat tappet is a wonderful piece that will put a big smile on your face, the only problem with it these days is the fact there is no zink in motor oils and I hear more reports of cam failures on breakin than I'd like. You can avoid that potential problem with a roller cam but you'll need the rather expensive linkbar roller lifters if you put this setup in an older 5.8 block(pre 1994), so the trick way to avoid that is to just order a replacement motor for a '94 or '95 truck which will come with a half decent roller cam in it, then you can just add 1.7 rockers to make it completely decent. And fear not the newer spec motor will run perfectly on the EFI system in your truck.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 03:19 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply! Seems easy enough! So there will be no other compatitablity issues I need to look for when I go to install the a 1994/95 remanufactured engine with the roller cam? Seems like installing the new rockers for a couple hundred bucks on this remanufactured engine is money well spend.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 04:21 PM
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You won't have any issues with this motor as long as you use the intake, wiring, and accessories your truck was originally equipped with, the engine itself is identical to a '90 vintage motor except for the cam so all the external stuff will bolt right on.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 06:17 PM
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If you have a bit more to throw at it, I'd also add a better intake and heads.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 07:25 PM
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Your distributor gear will need to change from cast to steel. Cast cam gears were used with flat tappet cams and steel cam gear with a roller cam.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 08:25 AM
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Sounds like some good places to start. Was going to replace entire distributor anyway so thanks for the heads up. Any intake you would reccomend if I decide to change that out? By changining intake will I have to also change injectors, fuel rails etc?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by grosseile88
Sounds like some good places to start. Was going to replace entire distributor anyway so thanks for the heads up. Any intake you would reccomend if I decide to change that out? By changining intake will I have to also change injectors, fuel rails etc?
The Edelbrock Truck intake is plug and play, but expensive. Mustang intakes are available but require a throttle body, EGR, and some different plumbing. You won't get as much bang for your buck out of an intake without better heads. You'll get more with an aftermarket cam. It can get expensive and a budget often helps with part decisions.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 09:14 AM
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Agreed.. on this displacement both the heads and intake are equally restrictive so they're best replaced together, but when combined with a cam there's no way it'll run on the stock tune with 19lb injectors so this is where it gets real expensive and complicated.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 09:19 AM
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Yup! Do you think he could draw the line with the stock cam, aftermarket heads and intake?

Again if afFORDable, in the budget, as I am not trying to spend your cash. Heads and intake would be over $1,600 new.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 09:28 AM
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I've seen that done and it doesn't produce very good results.. very little gain for the $$ spent, in this vintage motor the cam is by far the biggest restriction so if you're picking one or the other it should be the cam.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 10:17 AM
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So taking all this advice it sounds like the biggest improvements and least costly would be to replace the engine with a roller cam version since I have to replace it anyway and while I am at it add the 1.7 rockers. Sounds like I should leave intake and heads alone. I am assuming the roller cam engine alone will be a big improvement over the older non roller version that is in it now??? Not wanting to turn into a hot rod just improve performance and give it a little more Umph! when towing etc.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 12:18 PM
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1995 roller, 1.7 rockers, and headers should get you around 25 horses and 45ftlbs of torque VS. the old flat tappet engine. It's also going to be fresh VS the old worn engine, should be a noticeable difference!
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 03:42 PM
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You could add gt40 3 bar heads like I did. They flow about 20% better than the e7s and will just about put you at the 300 horse mark and limits of the 19#ers
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Conanski
I've seen that done and it doesn't produce very good results.. very little gain for the $$ spent, in this vintage motor the cam is by far the biggest restriction so if you're picking one or the other it should be the cam.
So if you just swap out the cam for an aftermarket cam and have everything else bone stock, your gonna see a big difference?
 
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