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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

Soft clutch issues

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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 07:03 PM
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ianmcg1988
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Soft clutch issues

I am new here and this is my first post. I've been using it for awhile to try to figure out what was wrong with my truck and how to work on it but this time I had to just post cause I wasn't finding the answer.

I have a 96 2.3L 5 speed Ranger. The clutch has been getting softer and softer until about two weeks ago when I couldn't drive it anymore because gears would grind like crazy when I shifted, especially 1st and 2nd. I had no time and just drove my other truck but now I've had a bit of time to look into it. I went to bleed the clutch and then realized there was no fluid in there. So I tried to put fluid in but nothing happened. The clutch is still extremely soft. The truck won't even start when I have it in gear, it turns over and kind of lurches forward, even with the clutch pushed all the way in. It starts right up in neutral. So my guess is I have to do what I really don't want to... replace the clutch!!

Any input would be appreciated on the matter. Is it possible that since I just put more fluid in the clutch it may take awhile for that fluid to get into the cylinder and I have to bleed it again?
 
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 08:32 PM
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I am stabbing in the dark here, but with the symptoms you describe my first thought is that you were running out of fluid causing air in the lines that made it soft and now there is still air in the lines (think of it like bleeding brakes) and it needs to be done again or done properly (sometimes there are specific ways to do these things or it wont get all the air out). Next question is where did the fluid leak out from? That has to be figured out. Next step would be to look at a failing/leaking master or slave cylinder (again, just like disk brakes).

I am sure that someone who knows considerably more will post up, but until then that will give you some stuff to think about.

And welcome aboard! We will get it figured out if you stick with us!
 
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 08:55 PM
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Damaged fluid lines, clutch master or leaking clutch slave.

Do a visual check for leaks around the master then follow line to

the transmission.

Look for leaks(excess oil) at the transmission bell housing.

Clutch slave is inside.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 10:49 PM
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Ok thanks so much guys. Like I said I am new and I've now realized why the fluid wasn't getting into the system once I hooked it back up. I filled the reservoir up, closed it and then pumped the clutch. Well of course it didn't bleed cause there was nowhere for it to bleed too!! So I found an awesome video on Youtube to help diagnose the problems that I've been having. Here's the link.


Basically what I believe I have to do is find the bleed screw on the transmission, fill the reservoir, and flush some fluid through the system by pumping the clutch. Then if there is still air in it I'll take the whole master cylinder out and bleed it like they show in the youtube video above. I believe I'll figure something out by doing this and I'll be sure to post what happens. In the process I'll check the lines to see if there are any leaks cause it had to have gone somewhere.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 02:03 PM
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OK so problem completely solved. This morning I went out and opened up the bleed on the transmission and pumped two full reseviors of brake fluid through the system. Then I closed it off and bled it out of the master cylinder which now finally did have fluid in it. This got the air bubbles out. I think that there was a small clog in the lines before or something because until I bled it out of the transmission bleed i couldn't even do it at the master. Anyway I hooked it all back up and it works perfect! Next problem is to find the source of the leak which I sitll haven't found, hopefully it's not in the slave...
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 12:14 AM
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Good to hear! Until you find the leak, keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure it doesnt get too low so that you dont have to go through the bleed process again.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ianmcg1988
OK so problem completely solved. This morning I went out and opened up the bleed on the transmission and pumped two full reseviors of brake fluid through the system. Then I closed it off and bled it out of the master cylinder which now finally did have fluid in it. This got the air bubbles out. I think that there was a small clog in the lines before or something because until I bled it out of the transmission bleed i couldn't even do it at the master. Anyway I hooked it all back up and it works perfect! Next problem is to find the source of the leak which I sitll haven't found, hopefully it's not in the slave...
Hi there....so when you say you pumped two full resevoirs through the system....pumped the clutch pedal or ???? Then you closed off the bleeder at the trany and bled out the master? How do you bleed the master??? Sorry, but I'm having the same problem but can't seem to get any resistance at the clutch pedal. There doesn't appear to be any air coming through my bleeder tube and I've filled the resevoir 4 times at least. The instructions I had given to me said to open the bleeder at the tranny and let the fluid to gravity flow (no pumping of the pedal) until all air bubbles are gone which I've done. Then I was told to depress the clutch to the floor and hold it while the bleeder was reopened and let the fluid run until it stops on its own, close the bleeder and then let the pedal back up to the top. Top up the fluid, pump the **** out of the clutch pedal about ten times and then crack the bleeder once more and let the fluid gravity flow once again to ensure no more air bubbles are there and then repeat the process.

I don't know what I'm doing wrong but can't seem to get the pedal build up pressure for the life of me. I had no leaks in the system, just replaced the master because the piston rod snapped off and it needed to come out. Any ideas....

Thx Dale
 
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