Intermittent hard start help needed
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whats ficm voltage when it wont start? 46-48V
do you sync and ficm sync when it wont start? Yes
have you tried unpluging ebp yet? No - should be disabled on TEC7 so I didn't think that would matter.
you dont get any codes? p1000 or p0603? None
all that said 03's were full of wire harness demons
do you sync and ficm sync when it wont start? Yes
have you tried unpluging ebp yet? No - should be disabled on TEC7 so I didn't think that would matter.
you dont get any codes? p1000 or p0603? None
all that said 03's were full of wire harness demons
Whats your oil pressure look like when cranking???? Gauge shows pressure.
Was this going on before you did all your upgrades in original post????
Yes, it was happening before EGR delete and oil cooler. It would do it at any temp as well. It's done it me when it's been over 80* and -40*.
How did you tell the psi???? Fuel pressure gauge
45psi is danger! 60psi is perfect. My truck sits at 61psi and at WOT drops to maybe 57psi. Just to let u know how much it should drop. But it seems like your getting fuel...and when it eventually fires up it runs good right???
Sometimes it will smoke for about 5mins but other times no smoke at all. It seems to depend on temperature.
If you do all your work, see where u went wrong. One injector shouldnt be causing this niether should the air restriction gauge or egr valve. Leave that unplugged it might help it flow a little better. How many miles on ol girl????
Engine only has 68K on it. Truck has 120K. I have owned it since the truck had 51K and the engine had 1K.
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Was this going on before you did all your upgrades in original post????
Yes, it was happening before EGR delete and oil cooler. It would do it at any temp as well. It's done it me when it's been over 80* and -40*.
How did you tell the psi???? Fuel pressure gauge
45psi is danger! 60psi is perfect. My truck sits at 61psi and at WOT drops to maybe 57psi. Just to let u know how much it should drop. But it seems like your getting fuel...and when it eventually fires up it runs good right???
Sometimes it will smoke for about 5mins but other times no smoke at all. It seems to depend on temperature.
If you do all your work, see where u went wrong. One injector shouldnt be causing this niether should the air restriction gauge or egr valve. Leave that unplugged it might help it flow a little better. How many miles on ol girl????
Engine only has 68K on it. Truck has 120K. I have owned it since the truck had 51K and the engine had 1K.
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the white smoke is a sign that the injectors are comming on line. white smoke is often a sign of poor fuel conditions or hung open egr valves. Would the EGR still cause a problem with the delete and the valve turned off? Maybe I should pull it and make sure it isn't hung open just in cause it is causing some issue.
so on top of what is fuel pressure? what is egrvp and egrdc# at koeo durring no start? I will toss my gauge back on and see what happens.
I haven't checked those but EVM and EVP both showed 0.
also note low icp also equals fule delivery issues and will cause the same thing.
ICP is strong across the board.
so on top of what is fuel pressure? what is egrvp and egrdc# at koeo durring no start? I will toss my gauge back on and see what happens.
I haven't checked those but EVM and EVP both showed 0.
also note low icp also equals fule delivery issues and will cause the same thing.
ICP is strong across the board.
Hopefully we will be able to figure this out collectively.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: South Weber, Utah
speaking of glow plugs what does your battery voltage do KOEO comparing when it will start to when it will not. With it being intermittent im liking the harness idea, I know electrical issues can come and go. I am not sure how much expansion and contraction you would see from ambient hot to cold but perhaps enough to open a bad spot in a control wire.
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speaking of glow plugs what does your battery voltage do KOEO comparing when it will start to when it will not. With it being intermittent im liking the harness idea, I know electrical issues can come and go. I am not sure how much expansion and contraction you would see from ambient hot to cold but perhaps enough to open a bad spot in a control wire.
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No, I mean how does one know what issue the code is pertaining to? I am assuming it gives a standard 'P' code. I haven't had time to try it yet but I want to be prepared for when I do so I know what to jot down and where to find what they mean.
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The fun just never stops!!
Now I'm having an overboost issue that isn't setting any codes. The vanes are cycling fine as per SGII readings and tone of exhaust. VGT% will move from 15-84 while at idle and you can certainly here the difference in pitch.
I am at a loss.
I read another thread where a guy was having similar issues to me across the board and it turned out to be a MAP sensor problem. At idle my MAP readings will bounce around from 12.8-14.0 at the same RPM. My BAR sits pretty steady at around 13.2. It seems to give me the most problems when the weather is changing so maybe the MAP is the culprit?
Now I'm having an overboost issue that isn't setting any codes. The vanes are cycling fine as per SGII readings and tone of exhaust. VGT% will move from 15-84 while at idle and you can certainly here the difference in pitch.
I am at a loss.
I read another thread where a guy was having similar issues to me across the board and it turned out to be a MAP sensor problem. At idle my MAP readings will bounce around from 12.8-14.0 at the same RPM. My BAR sits pretty steady at around 13.2. It seems to give me the most problems when the weather is changing so maybe the MAP is the culprit?
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No worries about the turbo. When you get everything cleared up, drive the crap out of it. Run 3rd gear out to dam 60mph. Assuming youve got a boost gauge get boost up to 26.
As for the code reading, when you find you have a code, I have a Haynes manual about an inch thick on these trucks. Got all the corisponding DTCs. The manuals are like $20 at Advanced. Im sure you can find it on the good ol internet tho.
As for the code reading, when you find you have a code, I have a Haynes manual about an inch thick on these trucks. Got all the corisponding DTCs. The manuals are like $20 at Advanced. Im sure you can find it on the good ol internet tho.
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OK, I'm starting to think it could be a glow plug module. Being the dummy that I am, when I set my timer last night to put my block heater on for a couple more hours, I forgot to plug the truck in.
It was -24*C(-12*F) so you can imagine my frustration. Anyhow, it took nearly 3hrs worth of waiting for it to heat up a little, plus putting a charger on the primary battery between attempts and it finally started. One thing I was noticing is the dash light for the glow plugs wasn't on. I started playing with the connectors on the GPM and you could see the underhood light dim and then hear a subtle buzzing coming from the module when I wiggled it. Do you think this could be hatched? What is the easiest way to test it in the cold without freezing to death?
It was -24*C(-12*F) so you can imagine my frustration. Anyhow, it took nearly 3hrs worth of waiting for it to heat up a little, plus putting a charger on the primary battery between attempts and it finally started. One thing I was noticing is the dash light for the glow plugs wasn't on. I started playing with the connectors on the GPM and you could see the underhood light dim and then hear a subtle buzzing coming from the module when I wiggled it. Do you think this could be hatched? What is the easiest way to test it in the cold without freezing to death?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: South Weber, Utah
I would say a digital volt meter with a DC amp clamp, clamp it over the wire that goes to each side and turn the key to the on position you should have 40 to 48 amps on each side as each glow plug draws 10 to 12 amps. Sears has one for about 60 bucks its model # 82369 AC/DC clamp meter.
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Well, I think I may have fixed the problem. Last Saturday I changed the MAP sensor and cleaned the EGR valve even though it has a full delete kit. So, it hasn't given me any starting grief since then. The only other thing I did was drain a quart of oil out because I must have overfilled it a bit last oil change. I guess I hadn't bottomed out the dipstick in the tube in my haste to get back into the warmth of the house.
Now it looks like my alternator is taking a dump and won't charge any higher than 12.4V (averages 11.8-12.2) hot idle. Even at highway speeds it only sits between 13.0-13.5V. Anyhow, I'm just going to put in a reman 140A unit until I have some extra $$$ to buy a higher amp model.
Now it looks like my alternator is taking a dump and won't charge any higher than 12.4V (averages 11.8-12.2) hot idle. Even at highway speeds it only sits between 13.0-13.5V. Anyhow, I'm just going to put in a reman 140A unit until I have some extra $$$ to buy a higher amp model.