When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Sounds easy enough I can get my brother to help me lol, all you have to remove is the tail lights and the filler neck correct? I may attempt this before winter, I'm at that point where its like do i let it just sit through one more winter or get it off and done now. Same with my fenders, where they mount right in front of the door is rotting and i just put some POR over where i could reach until i get to it.
No need to remove tail lights. Just unplug the two wire harnesses at the end of the driver's side frame rail. Take out the three small bolts in the fuel filler neck and work it loose. That's it besides the bed bolts.
For them I ground the tops off. Only took a few minutes per bolt. I made a X thought the tops and took a chisel to shear off the four corners. Once the bed was off I simply cut the end of the clip that holds the two plates that holds the nut, lifted off the top plate and pulled the remaing bed bolt, bottom plate of the capture nut down through the bottom of the top side of the frame rail. That only took a minute or two per bolt except the one near the fuel tank since all the wires, fuel, brake lines were in the way. That still only took about 10 minutes to get out.
Yes all the cross members were rounded to the next foot and had to be cut down to the right size to fit.
I cut the flap out because there was not much left to it. But you could leave it.
Ok that makes sence now. I'm having the machine shop cut and weld the cross members ( including the spacers) but and my neighbor and I will weld them to the bed floor.
Thank you all for your posts. It is now my time to shore up my bed. I have a 2002 Crew Cab PSD with a short bed and the bed sags in the front and bounces a bit. I need to travel for a week and need to load the bed with Rubbermaid totes loaded with hand tools. My bed has the classic fenderwell rust but was otherwise in decent shape.... until a hit and run crunched my driverside rear quarter. Not too bad but thinking of replacing the bed but cannot do this until the fall. Trip is coming up in a month. Can I shore things up with some lengths of oak or perhaps some short sections of unistrut that I can bolt together in the middle? No time to remove the bed right now and have not even had time to crawl underneath for a quick look see!
Also, do you know the newest bed I can use? Short beds are always a problem but I am willing to pay for the right quality.
I have to do something just to be able to sell the darned thing and replace it.
99 to 2010 are the same beds and all body lines will match up. 2011 to 2015 I think for end year will bolt up but the body lines are differnet, some guys dont care , I do and if I needed a new bed I'd buy one from down south so it matched 100%
99 to 2010 are the same beds and all body lines will match up. 2011 to 2015 I think for end year will bolt up but the body lines are differnet, some guys dont care , I do and if I needed a new bed I'd buy one from down south so it matched 100%
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.