Need help on 302 spark issues
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From: Washington state
Need help on 302 spark issues
I have a 1967 Ford F100, with a late 70s 302 in it. I will start from beginning. truck was running fine started running rough found out carb was shot, so got a new one. Then it would idle fine , but as soon as you hit the gas it would bog down. So i got new fuel pump. That was yesterday. Today got fuel pump on and start idling weird, would go from really high to really low, by its self. so i got new points and ajusted them to specs .021 because it manual. Now truck wont start at all. PLEASE HELP
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From: Ohio
Won't start with new points? Did you recheck your setting with a dwell meter? I'd think that maybe you might not have had it up on the points cam totally and you don't actually have them set correctly. Bump it over and watch carefully to see the point where it opens the most and recheck gap.
If that is okay, then I'd check condensor. Could be shorted and won't allow to start. Always change it when you put new points in.
Make sure the advance plate moves(twist the rotor), and the springs are good(the rotor should return back after you let go). If its sticky, it will affect idle speed depending on if it advances(raise rpm), or pulls back fully(back to base timing).
As for the "bog down", I'd be more apt to think that was accelerator pump issue in the carb more them fuel pump. Even though the carb was "new", I don't hold it past the rebuilder to have it screwed up.
If that is okay, then I'd check condensor. Could be shorted and won't allow to start. Always change it when you put new points in.
Make sure the advance plate moves(twist the rotor), and the springs are good(the rotor should return back after you let go). If its sticky, it will affect idle speed depending on if it advances(raise rpm), or pulls back fully(back to base timing).
As for the "bog down", I'd be more apt to think that was accelerator pump issue in the carb more them fuel pump. Even though the carb was "new", I don't hold it past the rebuilder to have it screwed up.
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From: Washington state
I replaced points in it about 3 weeks ago and truck ran fine, for awhile. Then had idle issues and i tried to turn down idle thats when all hell broke loose and truck hasnt ran right since. Im going in morning to get another set of points and condensor. Try it all over again. The thing with the idle did it before the new carb and now with the new carb. So im thinking it has to do with timing and points, I think???? I was looking for points gap and found 3 different settings, .017, .019, and .021, does it really matter which one? and number one piston has to be TDC... top dead center, right then you set points from there....
Lead Driver
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From: Ohio
Points can be set at any position, doesn't have to be #1. At least for the last 30yrs that is how I did it. Roll the distributor til you get up on a cam, set the points. Once set, I roll it again to another cam and recheck to make sure I had it on the full open point. That is where a dwell meter comes in handy. It reads it for you. I'd go .021 and leave it. Dwell would be 28-32. Remember, you have to reset your timing after installing points. Dwell effects timing, but not the other way around.
Make sure the advance plate moves, and returns after you flip the rotor. If the rotor just turns and stays in position, then it's stuck. Either just gunked up or the springs on the weights are broke/missing.
Make sure the advance plate moves, and returns after you flip the rotor. If the rotor just turns and stays in position, then it's stuck. Either just gunked up or the springs on the weights are broke/missing.
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From: Washington state
i got everything for truck today and finally got the truck running. It runs really good, but is hard starting. Turned the distributer all the way clockwise to get it to start. Have to put foot to the floor to start it but once its running its sounds really good, and test drive ran better than it ever has. Is there anything i can do about the hard starting??? By the way I want to thank you for your help, It worked and I love this site a lot of very smart FORD guys on here, so thank you so much.
Lead Driver
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From: Ohio
Glad to be of assistance.
Do you have a timing light? You really can't time it properly any other way. Set the timing at about 10*. Should run fine and start easily. That is why I mentioned that adjusting the points will screw up the timing. You need to get it back to good.
Right now it sounds like you have it really retarded, thus hard to start. If you have it advanced too much you will notice it cranking really hard(Like a dead battery would sound). Turning it Clockwise is advancing, CCW is retarding. On the fact you might not have enough rotation left in the distributor, you might want to move all the plug wires back one hole and try again. I would say pull the distributor and turn it back a tooth, but that might be more then you want to deal with. The wires are easier.
Do you have a timing light? You really can't time it properly any other way. Set the timing at about 10*. Should run fine and start easily. That is why I mentioned that adjusting the points will screw up the timing. You need to get it back to good.
Right now it sounds like you have it really retarded, thus hard to start. If you have it advanced too much you will notice it cranking really hard(Like a dead battery would sound). Turning it Clockwise is advancing, CCW is retarding. On the fact you might not have enough rotation left in the distributor, you might want to move all the plug wires back one hole and try again. I would say pull the distributor and turn it back a tooth, but that might be more then you want to deal with. The wires are easier.
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From: Washington state
Im waiting on my buddy to get timing lite to me, mine was sold by the ex. LONG STORY.... but as soon as he gets it to me I will time it. When i got up this morning to go to Dr. it started kinda easy, if that makes since. And another thing i noticed when i got it up to about 60 and hit the gas pedal it made a dieseling sound. What causes that??
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Ohio
Timing is too advanced if it is knocking since you advanced it the other day. Turn it back a touch now, or just wait for timing light and set it to 10-12*. Stock was 6*, but most turn it up a touch, just watch for knocking. All depends on quality of fuel, so conditions vary. Play with it as needed.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Ohio
I like their products. Not really sure what it will do to your fuel system? Help or nothing at all? Depends on the condition.
Help with knocking?? There again, likely depends on how bad. Get it timed properly and go from there.
Help with knocking?? There again, likely depends on how bad. Get it timed properly and go from there.
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From: Washington state
hey sorry its been so long since ive gotten back to you. The truck is running awesome now that ive timed it and new points. New question for ya, I have a 1991 ford F150, with a 351 windsor... and when i hit top speed the motor feels like its going to vibrate me out of the truck. trannys not slipping and front end is not vibrating, Its coming from the motor. A buddy told me it was fouled plugs, what do you think????
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Ohio
Glad to hear you got it running tip top.
As for the '91 F150:
"Hit top speed"?? What is that? 65 mph? 100 mph??
When was last tune up?? If the plug(s) are fouled, it should miss/shake at idle. If more then one plug, then it should really shake at idle.
Could be plug wires? Arcing due to being dried out(old). Once you put enough load on the engine(like going fast) it will arc worse then just idling. Or the distributor cap could be carbon fouled/cracked and causing the same symptoms.
Try this, get up to speed, put in neutral and let motor idle. Does shake go away? If it does, then it's the motor. If the shake is still there then could be driveline(like Ujoints).
As for the '91 F150:
"Hit top speed"?? What is that? 65 mph? 100 mph??
When was last tune up?? If the plug(s) are fouled, it should miss/shake at idle. If more then one plug, then it should really shake at idle.
Could be plug wires? Arcing due to being dried out(old). Once you put enough load on the engine(like going fast) it will arc worse then just idling. Or the distributor cap could be carbon fouled/cracked and causing the same symptoms.
Try this, get up to speed, put in neutral and let motor idle. Does shake go away? If it does, then it's the motor. If the shake is still there then could be driveline(like Ujoints).
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From: Washington state
when the truck gets to about 60 to 65 but if i let off the gas, it stops. when i get back on gas its starts to shake again. it doesnt idle to bad it sounds a little rough. I got new plugs but have to wait til after first of year to get wires, but i will try everything you said and get back to ya.
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