shock/spring tower question
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shock/spring tower question
i have never really run into this before...but i am redoing an 83 f-150 4x4 and the frame was in bad,bad shape! i am thinking about removing the shock/spring towers up front so that i can do a better job on the clean up and rust removal...which brings me to this.....if i cut the factory rivets and then replace them with maybe grade 8 or 5 bolts with loctite...will they be just as strong, or will it be weaker and not a good idea?
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From: Peoria, Arizona
Grade 8 Bolts will be fine. George in the 48-56 forum took apart his whole frame, removing all the rivets, and re assembled it with grade 8.
I do not know if Grade 5 will be sufficient. My thought is "would I want this to come apart at 80mph?"
I do not know if Grade 5 will be sufficient. My thought is "would I want this to come apart at 80mph?"
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thank you very much....i agree with the grade 8....this is one of those things that i knew was the way to go, but i over thought it and needed some one else to tell me everything was ok!! sometimes i over complicate the easiest parts of a project and just like to hear from others, if this makes any sense!
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From: Virginia
Technically it won't be as strong, but it probably will be good enough. The factory rivet was pounded in place till it swelled up and was tight in the hole. Your bolt will just be clamping the two pieces together. Will it work? Yes. Is it as good? No.
Laughing Gas
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From: Wausau, WI
Personally, I would go with a grade 8 fine thread with a top lock nut, probably use washers too. If you don't use washers, countersink the holes slightly so the actual head of the bolt is on the steel. They have a radius under the head and you don't want that to be the contact point.
Here's a torque table to go by...(scroll down to grade 8)
http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/...rqueCharts.pdf
Here's a torque table to go by...(scroll down to grade 8)
http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/...rqueCharts.pdf
FTE Legend
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From: Northeast, OK
Personally, I would go with a grade 8 fine thread with a top lock nut, probably use washers too. If you don't use washers, countersink the holes slightly so the actual head of the bolt is on the steel. They have a radius under the head and you don't want that to be the contact point.
Here's a torque table to go by...(scroll down to grade 8)
http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/...rqueCharts.pdf
Here's a torque table to go by...(scroll down to grade 8)
http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/...rqueCharts.pdf
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thank you 81choptop, that is what i will do...and i fully agree with you gary, Ford did NOT intent for those little suckers to come out! I have removed my fair share of them in the past ( mostly the radius arm brackets) and it is never fun. The best way i have found is the ol x pattern cut in the head and a good air hammer..but it still is a pain in the butt!
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Yea. 12 for the Coil Spring/Shock Towers, 8 for the front leaf spring hangers, 8 for the rear leaf spring hangers, and 16 for the auxiliary spring brackets.
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Fixed for accuracy. Dull drill bits won't even touch the rivets. A good sharp drill bit cuts through them like butter.
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From: Northeast, OK
Good call. You are right, sharp bits are needed.
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