Anybody know if someone make a kit? Or do I have to buy one at a time at the Ford Dealer?

 

I know ARP makes an engine dress up kit that has almost all the "outer" bolts (intake,water pump, oil pan etc.) I got one for my small block Chevy I had. Yes, I said Chevy!!! I think I remember seeing some for Ford stuff in their catalog. Check their website. I got some nice chrome plated 12 points.

 

Take a look here and see if it is what you are looking for.
Search: intake | Intake Manifold Hardware | AutoZone.com

 

Hmmm. Thanks guys. Can't seem to find anything like a kit for this FI lower manifold. I couldn't believe how corroded and weak all the bolts were. I was being extra careful and I still broke off 2 studs. I watched a youtube video before I started and the guy that made it even mentioned that they might break.
I'll probably go buy some grade-8 bolts (and some super long ones for the coil support structure) and just lop the heads off. I'll go by the ford dealer, but if it's the same crappy material I don't see the benefit. I might buy the 2 long coil support studs only.
The video guy said they were like 10 bucks a piece (!!!).

And, yes, I have a SBC also, but I've never bolts corrode this bad on that thing.

 

Bought some grade-8 bolts for the regular bolts.

I also went to the dealer and he said he could get me the long studs.....for 20 bucks a piece! He even said that perhaps I could use something else.

So I went back to hardware store...actually found some Stainless Steel all-thread (6" for 4 bucks) so I can use that. Should work just fine.

 

I was actually going to recommend looking around for a store that specializes in bolts and screws... Looks like you beat me to it. Good luck with the rest of the project.

 

but it sure was steaming out the tailpipe. I was afraid I had a cracked block. That was Wednesday evening at midnight. Anyway, ran it for ten minutes, and it would not stop steaming out the tail pipe, then just moved it out the way so I could use my other car.

On Thursday morning I went down and checked the oil....it's all beautiful and clean.....so that's good.

I'm suspecting that my tailpipe is full of water since it was pouring out.

I'm going to start it shortly, and if it's still steaming, then I plan to drill a hole a low point in the tailpiper before it goes over the rear axle. I can weld it up promptly thereafter.

Anybody else care to share ideas before I go off and do this? Is there something else I may be missing here?

 

Well...I got the tailpipe to clean it itself up by just running it for a while and driving aroung a few blocks.

HOWEVER, it looks like I have a passenger side valve cover oil leak. Dadgummit. That means I have to remove the Upper F.I. manifold to do that valve cover.

I checked the lower intake sealing fore and aft with a light and a mirror. Looks like that's ok. All nice and clean and dry.

Gonna get some gumout and/or brakekleen to make sure the block is clean and then run the engine again. I'm pretty sure it's the valve cover, but it'll just be one last check before I pull that upper f.i. again.

 

Sounds like things are going good. Hopefully it is just an easy fix for that oil leak though.

 

SO, I go and pull the Upper FI manifold yesterday. Redo the passenger side valve cover gasket....and its DADGUM LEAKING AGAIN!!
Well, I'm kinda-sorta demoralized....BUT I decide to tackle it again.

So, off comes all that crap again and this time I decide NOT to use a gasket at all. I just used that "Right Stuff" and sealed the valve to the head. (yes, I could see that the cork gasket had slipped again when Ipulled it off - - pretty obvious).

Anyway, I slap it all back together (takes forever) and I even broke one of the valve cover hold-down studs..luckily I was able to drill it out and put in a new one (of course I had amble out to the hardware store get the ez-out and the new stud).

BUT - it doesn't leak anymore. Got done about 9 p.m....long day considering I was done the first time in mid afternoon.

I guess today I'll do my computer resets and maybe tackle the annoying exh manifold to tailpipe studs.

 

Oh man that sounds like it was a chore. Good thing you got it all sealed up though. I had an 82 mustang once and did the one valve cover on the I6, I ended up using a cork one and it split where the. opts were so it leaked again.

 

Took extra time to snug up the exh pipes to the exh manifolds so it's quiet there.
I'm getting a code error....I believe my O2 sensor got ruined with all the coolant...and even then it runs quite nice but I get some check engine light. I'll run some code checks this weekend.

I do have one question. SOMEHOW, my timing mark is quite a bit off off? I never did pull the distribuor. I can't imagine how it went off? I never turned over the engine. I removed and replaced everything in one spot. BUT, my timing mark is now quite a few degrees off? I could NOT remove the distributor...it's stuck in there...that was quite the pain working around that, but I did.
The most I did to the distributor was remove the cap, the rotor, and the top plastic part of the distributor body (to make room for moving the intake manifold around).

Anybody have any idea how my timing mark is so far off?

I'm thinking that I'm being a maroon and I have to check the timing with the "spout" connector removed...I'll do that this weekend and update.

 

Honestly i don't have a clue but, why can you not remove the dizzy now? I have heard of the housing being melted to the block but that's on my era of motor, i haven't heard of that for the Windsor motor.

 

I talked to a friend of mine who is a Ford guy (I'm more of a SBC guy) and he had pictures and drawings, and he came over, and it nice and movable...it just feels like something is mechanically keeping it from coming out.

I'll pull the spout connector and check timing this weekend and report back.

If anybody has any ideas on why my Dist won't come out, I'm here to learn. Many thanks.

 

I assume you have fully removed the locking nut and the little washer doohickey that holds the dizzy down right? Maybe feel around it to see if anything is preventing that? Also when it is loose does it move up or down even a tiny bit? Other than that the only thing i can think of is trying to wiggle the rotor while pulling up since maybe the gears meshing down there has kind of caused it to get stuck. Sometimes it takes a little force to get them out. Good luck either way though.