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Broncos been hard to start.When you turn the key on I don't hear the fuel pump kick on initially.It will start after a few seconds.Put a gauge on fuel rail and pressure does not come up when key is turned to on position.When running it has about 30# fuel pressure.Going to change the fuel filter because it's easy.Any other ideas? Want to exhaust all posibilities before I drop the tank.Does the sending unit come with the pump?The gauge has been acting wacky lately so i suspect it may be bad.
Try wiggling the wires near the fuel pump relay and the eec power relay on the driver side engine well up near the top of the fender while the engine is running and see if you can get it to cut off or fail on you. My eec power relay have some bad wires that caused mine to just die at any given time regardless of what I was doing or had on at the time. They are pretty cheap and real easy to replace. I did cut my eec relay wires and solder on a new connector harness.
What year is the truck? Sounds more like a bad relay than a bad pump. You can see how to change the FP (if you eventually have to) in my signature link.
It's a 90.When you turn the key on you can hear the fuel pump turn on but it is'nt putting up pressure.Sounds kinda weak too.You can hear the relay click when you turn the key forward.The fuel pressure also bleeds down almost instantly when you kill the engine.
Well,at first I did'nt think the pump was cycling on when you turned the key.Today I had my son turn the key while I got underneath and listened.It's definetly coming on just not putting up pressure.You have to crank it a few times for it to finally build pressure and start.I believe either the sending unit or the float is afu also as the gauge is not working properly.Does the sending unit come with the pump assembly?
You can buy the pump WITH the level sender (from Ford, maybe others), or the pump alone (from a parts store that offers LLT warranty), but NOT the sender alone (from what I've heard). Did you look at the pics?
Yea I checked out your pics.I've dropped a tank before so that's not too big a deal.I just don't want to do it twice.How do you check the electronics to be sure the gauge problem is the sender?
Unplug the tank connector at the crossmember and probe the wires to the sender. You should get ~160 Ohms full & ~16 Ohms empty for '87-up. Earlier ones were ~10.5 f - ~73 e .
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