Identifying 5-speed trans
#1
Identifying 5-speed trans
Dumb story first:
Oil pan on my 4x4 '95 F-250 was finally leaking too much for me to patch up with epoxy. I decided I had enough time to give it a go and fix it myself. Each step seemed to get me deeper and deeper - I finally gave up when I couldn't separate the transmission from the engine and was trying to remove the transmission cross member. I had it towed to a local shop with the explanation that I failed to DIY it, please fix and reattach the portions I removed (I replaced transmission & all driveline components, but left off the belted accessories in case they needed it off.
They replaced oil pan and put the truck back together. I drove it home, then first snow drove it to work. Got about 10 miles out and suddenly the transmission makes horrible noise. Turns out they didn't put ATF back in. They've agreed to do all the work to replace it if I find the transmission (I accept partial blame because they didn't expect to find the transmission drained, and because I could have checked it but decided to rush and play it unsafe).
On to the actual question:
I found a manual 5-speed transmission out of a '92 F-150, brought it to the shop, and they say it's the wrong transmission. How many different types of 5-speed manual are there in this generation? What should be the clues I'm looking for to identify the different ones, assuming that a tag is not present on the other ones I'm looking at?
Henry
Oil pan on my 4x4 '95 F-250 was finally leaking too much for me to patch up with epoxy. I decided I had enough time to give it a go and fix it myself. Each step seemed to get me deeper and deeper - I finally gave up when I couldn't separate the transmission from the engine and was trying to remove the transmission cross member. I had it towed to a local shop with the explanation that I failed to DIY it, please fix and reattach the portions I removed (I replaced transmission & all driveline components, but left off the belted accessories in case they needed it off.
They replaced oil pan and put the truck back together. I drove it home, then first snow drove it to work. Got about 10 miles out and suddenly the transmission makes horrible noise. Turns out they didn't put ATF back in. They've agreed to do all the work to replace it if I find the transmission (I accept partial blame because they didn't expect to find the transmission drained, and because I could have checked it but decided to rush and play it unsafe).
On to the actual question:
I found a manual 5-speed transmission out of a '92 F-150, brought it to the shop, and they say it's the wrong transmission. How many different types of 5-speed manual are there in this generation? What should be the clues I'm looking for to identify the different ones, assuming that a tag is not present on the other ones I'm looking at?
Henry
#3
Agreed with above, a ZF5 is much sturdier.
What happened with your auto trans is why I never take anything to a shop anymore, except for alignments. If I have to buy more tools to get a job done, so be it. Still cheaper than paying a mechanic. It's a good idea to get in the habit of ALWAYS double checking ANY work done to your truck that wasn't done by your own hands and watched by your own eyes. I usually chat with the alignment tech when I take my truck in (respectfully staying out of his way of course), and check for missing cotter pins and such once he is done. Hell, I even double check my own work sometimes. I've been known to get something back together, then take a cover or part back off to make sure I installed a cotter pin, tightened a nut, etc. Better to check now and retrace some steps, then find out something didn't get done or was left out, and have to redo the entire job. Also make sure all the tools you used are accounted for before starting up/energizing/moving whatever it was you were working on. This includes rags inside hydraulic pumps... John Deere Powr-Trol units don't work so good when you leave rags inside :-)
What happened with your auto trans is why I never take anything to a shop anymore, except for alignments. If I have to buy more tools to get a job done, so be it. Still cheaper than paying a mechanic. It's a good idea to get in the habit of ALWAYS double checking ANY work done to your truck that wasn't done by your own hands and watched by your own eyes. I usually chat with the alignment tech when I take my truck in (respectfully staying out of his way of course), and check for missing cotter pins and such once he is done. Hell, I even double check my own work sometimes. I've been known to get something back together, then take a cover or part back off to make sure I installed a cotter pin, tightened a nut, etc. Better to check now and retrace some steps, then find out something didn't get done or was left out, and have to redo the entire job. Also make sure all the tools you used are accounted for before starting up/energizing/moving whatever it was you were working on. This includes rags inside hydraulic pumps... John Deere Powr-Trol units don't work so good when you leave rags inside :-)
#4
The M5OD isn't as beefy as the ZF, and has higher gear ratio per gear..
Here's a pic of your transmission, the ZF...
And a pic of the M5..
#5
Hm, now I'm even more worried.
The first you listed are *not* my transmission - that's closer to the transmission I ended up picking up. That transmission has large square holes on the end of the bell housing over the clutch. Mine has small round holes and a shorter 'lift' over the end that hooks to the engine. The other difference was that the transmission I got had a place for the slave cylinder to be bolted on, my transmission had an integral slave.
My transmission:
Wrong transmission:
Apparently the wrong transmission was mislabeled - when they looked at it they agreed it couldn't be out of a '94 and refunded my money. So for now, the search continues - except this time I have pictures to compare against.
The first you listed are *not* my transmission - that's closer to the transmission I ended up picking up. That transmission has large square holes on the end of the bell housing over the clutch. Mine has small round holes and a shorter 'lift' over the end that hooks to the engine. The other difference was that the transmission I got had a place for the slave cylinder to be bolted on, my transmission had an integral slave.
My transmission:
Wrong transmission:
Apparently the wrong transmission was mislabeled - when they looked at it they agreed it couldn't be out of a '94 and refunded my money. So for now, the search continues - except this time I have pictures to compare against.
#7
Wait...Is your truck a gasser, or a diesel?
If I remember correctly, a small block version (351w) has the Internal Slave Cylinder; And the Big Block (460) and diesel's use the external Slave Cylinder...
Would definantly account for the differences...
That pic you posted was an internal slave cylinder setup...Just like the M5OD...
If I remember correctly, a small block version (351w) has the Internal Slave Cylinder; And the Big Block (460) and diesel's use the external Slave Cylinder...
Would definantly account for the differences...
That pic you posted was an internal slave cylinder setup...Just like the M5OD...
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#8
#10
that was my thoughts too but wasn't sure if it was the 42 to 47 difference or small block to big block/diesel
#11
IIRC, 42 is a Wide Ratio/Diesel and the 47 is the Close Ratio/Gasser...
I may have those transposed...lol
#12
No, the -42 and -47 are input torque capacities (420 ft-lbs and 470 ft-lbs respectively) and have nothing to do with which engine they can bolt to or which gear ratios they might have. A 95 truck should use an S5-42 configured for the installed engine/driveline. The S5-42 was used from '88-'94.5; the S5-47 was used in '96-'97 trucks.
#14
No, the -42 and -47 are input torque capacities (420 ft-lbs and 470 ft-lbs respectively) and have nothing to do with which engine they can bolt to or which gear ratios they might have. A 95 truck should use an S5-42 configured for the installed engine/driveline. The S5-42 was used from '88-'94.5; the S5-47 was used in '96-'97 trucks.
I'll retract my previous statement on what the 42/47 meaning.
#15