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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

04 6.0 reliability?

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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 05:31 PM
  #16  
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Wow lol thanks for the info ill be sure to be looking for all that when I go look thanks again
 
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Old Nov 22, 2012 | 09:37 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Infantryman1991
Hey y'all I'm look at an 04 F250 with 52000 miles on it at my local dealer. My buddy is a mechanic and he told me to stay away from the 6.0.
Everybody says that.

52K on a 6.0 is nothing. I have 190K on my '04 and I'm still on the original head studs. Never put a tuner on it and glad I didn't. The only real problem I ever had was the EGR cooler split. Deleted that almost five years ago and that is the only thing I've ever done that wouldn't be considered routine maintenance. The truck runs great.

Bought this truck in March '04 and have no intentions of replacing it anytime soon.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 03:28 PM
  #18  
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^^^ what he said, a well maintained 6.0 is a dependable 6.0, that's as simple as it gets. I have 75,000 miles on my truck and has been flawless, Chevy and Dodge don't build a truck that compares to the F250 it's a solid durable machine in a class above them. Period
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 04:05 PM
  #19  
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I'll throw my $.02 in...

I bought a 2005 F250 in late 2004. I installed a service body when I started using it for work in late 2006. For most of its life it weighed 9900+ pounds and I also routinely pulled a 7000 pound trailer.

In May of 2009 I sold it with 170,000+ miles and not a single wrench touched the engine for repairs. Just one set of batteries and an iTBC.

My current 2006 F250 has 101,000 miles and according to the OASIS report never had engine work. A/C compressor was replaced though.

For whatever reason some people pick on the 6.0 and praise the 7.3. Funny how they forgot all the issues with that engine.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 04:47 PM
  #20  
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I just don't wanna buy a truck that's gonna give me issues. Like I said before I'm not into performance tuning the farthest ill go is a upgraded air intake and a better egr valve or delete it completely my main concern is all this **** I been hearing about the head bolts but from what I'm reading if it remains mostly stock with no hot tuner then the stock head TTY bolts will be fine. It also seems like the 6.0 isn't as bad as its made out to be.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 05:07 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Infantryman1991
I just don't wanna buy a truck that's gonna give me issues. Like I said before I'm not into performance tuning the farthest ill go is a upgraded air intake and a better egr valve or delete it completely my main concern is all this **** I been hearing about the head bolts but from what I'm reading if it remains mostly stock with no hot tuner then the stock head TTY bolts will be fine. It also seems like the 6.0 isn't as bad as its made out to be.
#1 Leave the stock intake alone

#2 Deleting the EGR is a good idea

#3 The stock headbolts are fine if the boost is under 25 psi or so, and you're ahead of the game if you delete the EGR

Josh
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 06:49 PM
  #22  
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I bought a 2004 6.0 with 65,000 on it. I did all the stuff (EGR delete, ARP studs, blue spring, etc.) and had to put a tuner on it for the CEL. Just tuned it to mild (40 hp) and put the tuner behind the back seat. I tow a 12,000 5th wheel all the time and have put 11,000 miles on it with no trouble. I use to tow with a V-10 and thought it did a great job, but this beast eats mountain passes with no strain. If you are not towing heavy, you probably don't need the new bolts and studs, just keep up with the maintanence.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 06:50 PM
  #23  
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Leave stock intake alone. Check. What about a bigger exhaust to keep the temp down? Nothing crazy I believe the stock is 3 inch turbo back I was thinking a 4 inch good idea or no
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 07:35 PM
  #24  
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Ya no minimal towing for me and I live in south louisiana so there's no mountain passes lol. My truck will remain mostly stock might tune it but just for economy purposes nothing else.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2012 | 01:32 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Infantryman1991
Leave stock intake alone. Check. What about a bigger exhaust to keep the temp down? Nothing crazy I believe the stock is 3 inch turbo back I was thinking a 4 inch good idea or no
Yes the 4" will help keep temps down for your exhaust valves and guides the manifolds as well as the turbo because the hot exhaust is moving out of combustion chamber faster. You may loose a bit on your very bottom end until turbo spools up and starts a draft through the pipe but it's a worth while investment and straight piping it is even better.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2012 | 03:07 PM
  #26  
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will strait piping throw a code? i know the muffler is no big deal but what about the DPF? and that wont cause any back pressure issues?
 
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Old Nov 24, 2012 | 03:13 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Infantryman1991
will strait piping throw a code? i know the muffler is no big deal but what about the DPF? and that wont cause any back pressure issues?
No DPF on a 6.0 truck. And no sensors for the catilytic convertor either.

Josh
 
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Old Nov 24, 2012 | 03:20 PM
  #28  
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Back pressure issues?
 
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Old Nov 24, 2012 | 04:06 PM
  #29  
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6.0 Was the last engine before the feds strangled them with heavy emissions equipment like the 6.4 and especially the 6.7. Like Bullit said no sensors or lights at all.
Straight piping a 6.0 is a good thing for it, going to be louder than stock for sure but not bad. I like the sound of it, your truck will have a unique sound unlike any stock diesel truck. People will know it's you without looking after they hear the sound of the turbo whine and deep note.
Backpressure is lower, there are no negatives to straight piping exept for the noise level is higher. Lower exhaust temps are worth it.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 10:40 AM
  #30  
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New to site and this question has probably been asked but here it goes. How often should you change your fuel filters? Is every other, oil change ok? Thanks
 
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