power window switch
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From: NC
power window switch
I have a 99 F250 2 door. The power window switch (i think typical of Ford electrics) has failed. The contacts burn up, I have taken apart and cleaned the contacts several times, but it will only last a few weeks before carbon/black junk from arcing builds up again.
Local Ford dealer says this is a problem, always keeps a few of the switches in stock. Also says that the replacement is no different than the orig switch, and that it will last about a year or two before it fails.
Anybody found a better cure for this problem? I'm thinking that maybe the switch contacts are not making a real tight contact when flipped in the up position, making slight arc under load. Is anybody making an aftermarket redesign switch for this?
Local Ford dealer says this is a problem, always keeps a few of the switches in stock. Also says that the replacement is no different than the orig switch, and that it will last about a year or two before it fails.
Anybody found a better cure for this problem? I'm thinking that maybe the switch contacts are not making a real tight contact when flipped in the up position, making slight arc under load. Is anybody making an aftermarket redesign switch for this?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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power window switch
I doubt you will find after market.
If you want to reduce the AMPS accross the switch contacts, you can simply put a radio shack relay in line to the window motor and use the switch (lower current) to activate the relay.
Spend about $5 for a 30amp relay.
If you want to reduce the AMPS accross the switch contacts, you can simply put a radio shack relay in line to the window motor and use the switch (lower current) to activate the relay.
Spend about $5 for a 30amp relay.
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power window switch
Crimp the contacts so they make a tighter fit and use NOLOX paste or dielectric grease to stop the loose fit arcing problem. Nolox is a paste put on alumnium and other connections by electricians because aluminum is notorious for working loose and then arcing till it blows.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Central Illinois
power window switch
Window switches burning up has not been a problem that I have heard of... and this is the place to hear about problems! If you want to fix it, quit buying switches and maybe change the window "motor". If it happens to each switch you put in, something in the line is drawing too much current.
Matt
Matt
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From: NC
power window switch
electronics tech friend measured draw on window motor, it was same as passenger window, and the same in his 250.
The contacts in the switch look a lot like the points in an old points-type distributor, small metal contact pads on flexible brass springy things. There are five contact points in the driver side switch.
When it didn't work this AM, I pulled out the switch, and with contacts exposed, plugged the leads back in, then used pen to mash down the proper contacts that the levers push when you rock the toggle from up to down. Window worked fine....so it seems that the problem is clearance (too much) between the plastic rocker part of the control, and the electrical contacts portion of the switch. Since the contact points aren't mashed together much -- or at all, arcing is occuring.
Now I just have to figure out how much, and how to, add a little more "throw" to the mechanical portion of the switch control
The contacts in the switch look a lot like the points in an old points-type distributor, small metal contact pads on flexible brass springy things. There are five contact points in the driver side switch.
When it didn't work this AM, I pulled out the switch, and with contacts exposed, plugged the leads back in, then used pen to mash down the proper contacts that the levers push when you rock the toggle from up to down. Window worked fine....so it seems that the problem is clearance (too much) between the plastic rocker part of the control, and the electrical contacts portion of the switch. Since the contact points aren't mashed together much -- or at all, arcing is occuring.
Now I just have to figure out how much, and how to, add a little more "throw" to the mechanical portion of the switch control
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