I've a question on turn signal wiring and also some insight for others trying to understand how these switches are wired. I've recently had to replace my turn signal switch due to a short or ground issue causing my right brake light/turn signal to not work. I got a NOS switch and have it wired in. The brake lights work fine but now I have no turn signals or flashers. I've done some research with the search tool and couldn't find anything specific to my problem.

What I've noticed with a test light is that I have power coming from the hazard flasher, which is the red and white wire, its dim but constant. With the brake pedal pressed the red and black wire shows a bright light, which I believe to be correct. In this diagram below, I have no power in the blue wires, I II or III, number II being the power coming in.

alex76-f250 had this picture up


Now, I was anxious to get inside because it got cold pretty quick here tonight and I haven't checked any of the fuses with a light. And I'm out of the short fuses so I had to rearrange a few to see if I could get any current. I did find that number 11 was blown, which must have just happened when I was trying to rig my old switch back together, but I moved the one for number 12 over wit no luck. I believe this is my fuse panel, as most of the letters are worn off. But this is the only one I've found with the heater fuse in the same spot as mine. OrangeBeast had this picture up.



I've taken a jumper wire and jumped the red and white wire to the blue wire and had the turn signals working that way, but the hazards don't come on. The hazard flasher definitely works. At first I thought maybe the hazard switch wasn't making contact. I cut the old one open to see how it works, there are 2 sets of contacts, with the switch pushed in, the blue wires are connected via a set of contacts, the contacts for the hazards ride up on a track and slide down when the hazard switch is pulled out, making contact with the first set of contacts which now contact the left and right turn signal wires, allowing all 4 lights to blink. I haven't checked the signal flasher itself but I know it has a orange wire going in and the blue coming out. Should I trace the orange wire? Is the NOS switch the problem? Any input is appreciated.

 

The word "dim" doesn't really give any useful information. To troubleshoot effectively, you need to use a multimeter to see what voltage you actually have available to the hazards.

The BLUE wire is downstream of the turn signal flasher. You will only see power here if the flasher is closed, which can only happen if a load is presented to the flasher. Once that happens, the flasher interrupts, then re-makes. It's incorrect to assume a constant 12 volts at this junction.

I don't know what that means.

I couldn't really follow that. Restore the fuse panel to the factory configuration. If you don't have the appropriately rated fuses, wait to continue troubleshooting until you have the appropriately rated fuses, even if that means buying more.

Again, I'm not following what you're saying. Are you saying you're trying to work the turn signals by borrowing power that would normally go to the hazard switch? Why is there an expectation with regards to the hazards then?

I stopped trying to follow after that. The more of these "experiments" you try, the farther you'll deviate beyond the factory setup, and the harder it's going to be to help you. Let's start over and try things my way this time. Please return everything to the factory configuration, then check for power on BOTH sides of the turn signal fuse with the key on. Report your results.

Your next post should consist of two voltage measurements, or a request for help in using a multimeter. If you don't follow these instructions, I can't help you.