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1) easy and quick, provided you have the hub socket which you can pick up just about anywhere.
2) exhaust routed along frame, 14" lift, 44" tires. That pretty much does it. If you wanted to get real hard core run a snorkle, route all your breathers to one tall filter (which is what I do), seal your electrical system, and run your pipes tractor style. Off side of that is you may drown first
3) Don't think that would work well at all with a top on, because you need that flow of air to cool...the fans won't cut it well by themselves.
The "wonder grease" you mentioned sounds interesting! I would be interested in more info... . One trick I have done on my rig is to remove the belt drive fan & install 3 electric fans, the fans are set up on switches so I can shut them off for deep water or deep mud situations. One fan is in front of the rad as a pusher fan while the other two are side by side behind the rad pulling air through the rad. I get better cooling, quicker warmup & can shut off the fans to avoid spraying all over under the hood.
Originally posted by the_jugwa I'm replying about the wheel beariing packing, at the company i work at we have an assembly line for painting, this line goes through a high temp power washer and then the product gets painted, well after the painting stage, it goes through a bake oven, the temp of the power washer is about 300 degrees and the bake oven aswell, We use a waterproof high temp grease for the roller bearings on the line, the temp rating for the grease is 750 degrees F, so i thought to myself at work one day, hey i wonder if this stuff will work for whell bearings, for myself i also spend alot of time with the hubs under the mucky muck, all i have to say is get some of this stuff it works great, I've only had to repack my wheel bearings once a year for the 3 years ive been using this stuff ( althoght it doesnt really need it) but maintainence is key if you wanna keep on doin' whatcha been doin, if youre interested in this grease, let me know i can find the company from which it comes, and hook you up with a phone number to call and order yourself some
like they said....repack oyur wheelbearings if they get water in them, check diff oils......make sure you have vent hoses going from your pumpkins at least up to the frame, then turn them down. always grease your tie rode ends, u-joints balljoints kingpins...etc after you hit the mud. make sure your wheel bearing seals are good along with your locking hub seals.
Marine alternator, dizzy sealed with silicone with a small line put into the cap that runs into a breather placed up high, msd offroad brainbox thats 100% encased in a block of epoxy, custom regulator box with a watertight lid (actually, any of those small tuperware containers work great), dielectric grease on all electrical connections and plugs, fusebox in cab and up high. That seems to work pretty well
I disagree about the boat trailer grease. I ran it in my 79 for years. I was taught that by a professional mechanic that always ran it in his 4x4. Never had any problems. How hot do your hubs get? I can put my hand on mine after driving on the freeway or in town.
Also about the exhaust... You don't need to snorkel it. All it does is blow bubbles unless you let the rig die That's only a problem if you are in so deep the water is above the exhaust manifolds. If you're in that deep then maybe a snorkel
Nothing against your mechanic friend, but just because someone is a mechanic doesn't mean they are always right. I bought my second car (a '66 Mustang) from a "professional mechanic". After wondering why the brakes sucked so bad even though he told me he put new ones on, I tore into them. He had installed the brake shoes wrong on all 4 wheels.
Everytime I get back from playing in the mud or any other kind of off roading, I pull the truck into the part of the yard with the brownest deadest looking grass to wash it. Mom and Dad hate me leaving mud on the driveway! That part really is'nt very important but I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. I bust out the power washer and crawl underneath there and spray off the axles, suspension, frame, floor pans, wheel wells, inside the bumpers, and under the hood and engine compartment. If I really went crazy I will pull the tires off and brake drums and blast out those areas as well. Once that is done I give er a regular wash on the body. Then I pull it up on the drive way and go underneath the truck and inspect the chassis, suspension, and drivetrain for damaged or broken components. If I have been driving in deep water I will change the oil in the diffs and sometimes the tranny and transfercase. Up front I pull the lockouts, disassemble, clean and reassemble them; I repack the wheel bearings while I'm at it. Either way you do it mudding is hard on a truck and you will break stuff if you do it often. When driving off road try to be familiar with your under carriage so you don't bottom out and damage low hanging components i.e. driveshafts, t cases, diffs, fuel tanks, stuff like that. Try to avoid large rocks and stumps but accidents do happen.