1950 with 239 flathead.
I installed Red's headers with dual exhaust.
Now I see the headers have broken bolts. (exhaust smell in the cab)
What's the best way to get the broken bolts out and where do I get replacement bolts?
Sounds like a fun job doesn't it?

Thanks for your help.

 

Really shouldn't be that big of a problem. It is actually a benefit to the repairman that the 239 had the exhaust ports in the block versus the head. The bolts/studs don't seem to seize as bad as on an overhead valve engine. I just replaced the exhaust headers on my '49 239 V-8. The old headers had been on the engine for around 22 years, yet the bolts spun right off with a socket and ratchet.

Hold a second... are you talking about the header bolts, or the flange bolts (where the pipe connects to the header)?

If the header bolts are snuffed, just remove the intact bolts, take the header loose from the block, and apply a pair of visegrips or a stud socket to the nub, and spin them out.

The header bolts are 3/8-16 by 1 3/4" I believe. Jut take one out and measure the critter.

When you install the new bolts, use hi-temp anti-seize to ensure easy removal in the future.

J.D.

 

That's pretty unusual in my experience for the bolts into the block to break off in operation. Make sure your exhaust system is supported properly with some isolating mounts that allow for some movement.

 

If the bolts are broken off in the block, you have a job ahead of you. Take the header all the way off to get some working room.

You can start with some penetrating oil...I think Mouse Milk is the best around. You can get it here: MOUSE MILK OIL from Aircraft Spruce

After putting a few drops on a couple of times a day for a few days, you can start by trying to use an easy-out screw extractor. Drill a hole in the broken off bolt....as big as possible. Use a screw extractor to attempt to unscrew the broken off piece. Be careful...try to not break off the screw extractor in the bolt.

If that doesn't work, drill it out to the tap size, and re-tap the hole.

If you did break the easy-out off in the bolt, you can use an oxy-acetylene torch to melt the bolt out. Steel bolts melt at a lower temp than the cast iron block. This is risky, so be careful. It is risky, because the melting point of the cast iron isn't that much higher than the steel bolt melting point, but it works. It's best to use a cutting torch to get the bolt hot, then blast in in short bursts with the oxygen blast from the cutting torch.

You might get lucky with the mouse-milk. One thing you might try on the first step is to get left hand turning drill bits. Sometimes, with good penetrating oil, the act of drilling the bolt with a left turning drill will simply unscrew the stuck end of the bolt.

Dan

 

Or put a nut over the end of the stud, doesn't have to screw on, just hold it there with pliers. Weld inside the nut to the broken stud and then unscrew them as a pair.

 

I had a machinist do this for me on a turbocharger part years ago. He used a TIG welder. I think the shock of the heat from welding broke the bolt free. After welding on the nut, the bolt unscrewed really well. If it works your friends will think you're McGiver with a welder & a wrench!!

 

Yes, I think it is the heat as much as anything that breaks it, I've never had this method fail me.