reviving a sitting f250
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Joined: Nov 2012
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From: az
reviving a sitting f250
so i enherited my dads 1999 f250 superduty. it has the 5.4 with the manual o/d trans, 20k miles. im pretty happy to get it. how ever the truck has not been started in over 6 years. now i am no stranger to reviving old engines, however i have no clue about these mod motors. should i worry about things like the timing belts? do these have belts or chains? is there any thing else i should consider. yes i know about changing oil, plugs stuffs like that.. any help is greatly appreciated. thanks a bunch
tim
tim
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,511
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
plan on draining the gas tank, and purging the fuel lines. you may also need to replace the fuel pump. once you get as much of the old gas as you can out, fill it up with fresh. it will take a while to get the fresh gas to the injectors. only crank the starter for 30-40 seconds, then let it sit and cool off for 2 minutes or you will burn the starter out.
it took me close to an hour to get my 04 5.4 fired after sitting for 9 months. the ethanol in the gas plays hell with the fuel systems in these truck when they sit.
it took me close to an hour to get my 04 5.4 fired after sitting for 9 months. the ethanol in the gas plays hell with the fuel systems in these truck when they sit.
You Keep What You Kill
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Huntersville, NC
Congratulations. Post up pics so we can admire that Super Duty! As time and $$$ are available, I would do the following:
1. Replace engine oil and filter. Use the Motorcraft oil filer instead of aftermarket brands.
2. Give the entire truck a look over. Look for leaks, squirrel's nests, etc.
3. Replace the coolant, transmission fluid and filter, serpentine belt, PVC valve, battery*, spark plugs, and fuel filter*.
4. Check the brakes and tire pressure.
5. Obtain a current state inspection.
The 5.4L engine has dual timing "chains" that are perfectly fine at 20K miles.
1. Replace engine oil and filter. Use the Motorcraft oil filer instead of aftermarket brands.
2. Give the entire truck a look over. Look for leaks, squirrel's nests, etc.
3. Replace the coolant, transmission fluid and filter, serpentine belt, PVC valve, battery*, spark plugs, and fuel filter*.
4. Check the brakes and tire pressure.
5. Obtain a current state inspection.
The 5.4L engine has dual timing "chains" that are perfectly fine at 20K miles.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: West of Chicago
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Southern Colorado
I would pull both valve covers and dump a quart of oil over the entire valve train before trying to start it. You can do this while you're draining the old oil - just let this oil run through and out. This will also tell you if there's a bunch of corrosion under the covers. This is a pain, but could save some nasty wear on very dry parts upon startup.
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From: az
thanks a bunch every one. all great advice.
this was my main concern. it was left with about a half full tank if i remember correctly. i was worried about the injectors and lines being gummed up beyond use. no fuel stabilizer was used.
most of this has been done or will be done shortly. new tires are a must. luckily we dont have many squirls in phoenix. seen that kind of mess before. before i change the plugs, i was wondering what kind of plugs do all of you use/like? also this is not the 5.4 that the special spark plug removal tool is needed because they keep breaking off in the head is it? sorry for all the questions, this new stuff just kind of scares me. thanks again
tim
plan on draining the gas tank, and purging the fuel lines. you may also need to replace the fuel pump. once you get as much of the old gas as you can out, fill it up with fresh. it will take a while to get the fresh gas to the injectors. only crank the starter for 30-40 seconds, then let it sit and cool off for 2 minutes or you will burn the starter out.
1. Replace engine oil and filter. Use the Motorcraft oil filer instead of aftermarket brands.
2. Give the entire truck a look over. Look for leaks, squirrel's nests, etc.
3. Replace the coolant, transmission fluid and filter, serpentine belt, PVC valve, battery*, spark plugs, and fuel filter*.
4. Check the brakes and tire pressure.
5. Obtain a current state inspection.
The 5.4L engine has dual timing "chains" that are perfectly fine at 20K miles.
2. Give the entire truck a look over. Look for leaks, squirrel's nests, etc.
3. Replace the coolant, transmission fluid and filter, serpentine belt, PVC valve, battery*, spark plugs, and fuel filter*.
4. Check the brakes and tire pressure.
5. Obtain a current state inspection.
The 5.4L engine has dual timing "chains" that are perfectly fine at 20K miles.
tim
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Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Stephensville WI
DRAIN THE GAS!!!
The gasoline you get today is crap. If you do not put stabilizers in it, expect about a 6 month shelf life. After that, it will not burn very well and will cause your valves to stick (which will cause the pistons to hit them, which will cause bad things).
If a fuel stabilizer was not used, it is too late to add one now. Drop the tank, flush it, fill it with fresh fuel and a good cleaner (I like Seafoam), and do all of the stuff mentioned above.
The gasoline you get today is crap. If you do not put stabilizers in it, expect about a 6 month shelf life. After that, it will not burn very well and will cause your valves to stick (which will cause the pistons to hit them, which will cause bad things).
If a fuel stabilizer was not used, it is too late to add one now. Drop the tank, flush it, fill it with fresh fuel and a good cleaner (I like Seafoam), and do all of the stuff mentioned above.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,511
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
i would not bother with the spark plugs. the recommended change interval is 100,000 miles. with 20,000 miles on the clock, you can easily go another 40-50,000 miles before worrying about the plugs.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: PA
Agreed, the plugs should be just fine. A good idea would be to put some marvel mystery oil into the spark plug holes. Would help lube the rings. I personally would try firing it on the old gas and worry about drainig it if it wont run, or runs bad. I had my old dodge running on 6 year old gas, and it ran just fine though it didnt smell very good.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: West of Chicago
Most of the cars I pick up to derby sometimes run on 5 year old gas just fine I had a 59 imperial that sat 10 years and it ran fine. I've ran cars on 20 year old oil Just fine. Like I said put a battery in it and turn the key.
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 532
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
I would echo what others here have said. probably not a terrible idea to get some MMO into the cylinders and on the valvetrain prior to startup but I also couldnt say it would be necessary. Otherwise fresh gas and battery, look for critters and leaks, check the various rubber and enjoy.
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From: az
well, we tried to get her started today, but we cant get the fuel pump to run. inertia switch was not tripped, but fuel pump relay under the hood did not seem to be working. switched relays around and still nothing. not sure if we were getting power at inertia switch. didnt have my electrical testing tools with me. is there any thing i might be over looking? no wireing seemed to be animal food. gonna start trying to chase this down monday.
tim
tim