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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 07:56 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Lead Head
It will never, ever work right. It will need PIP signal from the TFI module for engine speed, coolant temp, MAP, TPS, VSS etc..as mentioned earlier.

Even if it did somehow work, It'd be terrible since all the shift points would be programmed for the I6. You'd get WOT 3500-4000 RPM shifts or whatever the I6 does.
I missed that one! Thanks
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 08:28 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Lead Head
It will never, ever work right. It will need PIP signal from the TFI module for engine speed, coolant temp, MAP, TPS, VSS etc..as mentioned earlier.

Even if it did somehow work, It'd be terrible since all the shift points would be programmed for the I6. You'd get WOT 3500-4000 RPM shifts or whatever the I6 does.
there is the long answer for why I said a non computer controlled tranny would be easier to use. you could sell the E4od and get some of your money back for the other tranny.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 09:17 AM
  #18  
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You're going to have to use an aftermarket transmission controller. A lot of people seem to like the The US Shift Transmission Control System one.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 02:38 PM
  #19  
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ok welll let me ask this. is the trans computer hackable? if it needs to see x to make y happen can i just make it think it sees x? rewrite what the computer is looking for or change what it wants to 0? i don't care if it shifts different when its cold or no.its going to be a huntin truck and i don't need no luxury truck with soft shifts that u cant feel. i work hard and play even harder so if it shifts soft it wont last with me anyway. hell i can unplug the tps and she drives and shifts just wont kick down when i want her to( for passing) in the i6 and the 302 i built are pretty close rpm range so iam not worried about that. i just need a way to make the kick down work right first then ill worry about getting the shifting points closer if need be.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 04:01 PM
  #20  
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and what about the standalone computers that come from the factory with the e40ds in the diesels trucks? thoses can be gotten pretty cheap from a junk yard? a 302 that is built to make all it powers in the lower rpms and the a computer like that i could see that as a way of working. i have read people saying with this u will need very few sensors.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 05:16 PM
  #21  
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i also read ono another form that if i use the standalone computer out of a diesel for a e40d all i would need to hook up to it is "you will need a tach, FIPL, and a speed sensor on the rear axle" well my truck has all this so shouldnt be a problem. anyone comfirm this ?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 06:38 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by marshbun
ok welll let me ask this. is the trans computer hackable? if it needs to see x to make y happen can i just make it think it sees x? rewrite what the computer is looking for or change what it wants to 0? i don't care if it shifts different when its cold or no.its going to be a huntin truck and i don't need no luxury truck with soft shifts that u cant feel. i work hard and play even harder so if it shifts soft it wont last with me anyway. hell i can unplug the tps and she drives and shifts just wont kick down when i want her to( for passing) in the i6 and the 302 i built are pretty close rpm range so iam not worried about that. i just need a way to make the kick down work right first then ill worry about getting the shifting points closer if need be.
A 302 like yours has at least another 1500RPM more usable RPM than a 300.

There are tools to program these computers, but you can't program them to ignore sensors. They still need the PIP signal from a TFI distributor, ECT, MAP/MAF, TPS, VSS and ACT, probably the O2 as well.
Originally Posted by marshbun
i also read ono another form that if i use the standalone computer out of a diesel for a e40d all i would need to hook up to it is "you will need a tach, FIPL, and a speed sensor on the rear axle" well my truck has all this so shouldnt be a problem. anyone comfirm this ?
The diesel engine speed pickup is different than a gasoline engine tach signal. The IDI diesel computer will be even worse in terms of drivability compared to the 300 computer. You're talking 2800 RPM WOT upshifts and it would likely never downshift behind a gas motor.

It's just not going to work out well no matter what you do. You've got four choices:

Convert the 302 to EFI with the proper computer and harness
Swap back to a 300 and hook the EFI back up
Use an aftermarket standalone transmission controller
Swap to an AOD or C6.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 06:53 PM
  #23  
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Well efi is soooo not wanted and not going to happen. The efi i6 is blown behond repair the aftermarket standalone computer is a fall back plan but i want to try some other things first. I just dont believe that there is no way to trick the computer. It half way works as it is so it can not need to much input to do what i want it.to
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 08:28 PM
  #24  
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You will need a TFI PIP input, which you can't get unless you run a TFI distributor. If you run a TFI distributor, you'll need the EEC-IV to provide proper spark advance, and even then you'll still need all the sensors for it to properly work, and at that point you might as well ditch the carb. Without all the sensors, the computer will default the transmission into limp mode. It won't shift right, and it will default it to maximum line pressure. 24/7 maximum line pressure will cause the transmission to start blowing internal seals out.

The only reason it halfway works is because of the fall-back fail safes Ford implemented into its programing. Without an engine speed signal, it's not going to work properly - ever.

I've been playing with these EEC-IVs for a quite a while now, and I've read the internal Ford theory-of-operation documentation. What you're trying to do just isn't possible without implementing most if not all of the sensors and engine inputs.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2012 | 10:04 AM
  #25  
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update!! ok so today i had alot of success! i had my old mechanic teacher stop by and he took a look at the 95 f150. he looked at her all over. and informed me that he is 100 percent sure i should only need the tps and the vss. i told him i have both hooked up. he brought out a voltmeter and checked my tps. he said i had it hooked up right but the side that was suppose to go to the computers ground was not grounded. so we spliced the wire and grounded it. started her up and around the block we went. she shifted spot on and was firm and pretty smooth and when i took her to wot she kicked down and took off with out missin a beat. just to make sure i started the truck and took her out again and again and not single a problem. he said my year and model of the truck has the pcm that more like a standalone and only needs the tps and vss. now it is day one so i am telling people who r thinking about doing this let me drive the truck around for a while to make sure there are no problems down the road with my set up and ill repost every now and then to let u know how it all turns out...but so far so good.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2012 | 10:35 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by marshbun
update!! ok so today i had alot of success! i had my old mechanic teacher stop by and he took a look at the 95 f150. he looked at her all over. and informed me that he is 100 percent sure i should only need the tps and the vss. i told him i have both hooked up. he brought out a voltmeter and checked my tps. he said i had it hooked up right but the side that was suppose to go to the computers ground was not grounded. so we spliced the wire and grounded it. started her up and around the block we went. she shifted spot on and was firm and pretty smooth and when i took her to wot she kicked down and took off with out missin a beat. just to make sure i started the truck and took her out again and again and not single a problem. he said my year and model of the truck has the pcm that more like a standalone and only needs the tps and vss. now it is day one so i am telling people who r thinking about doing this let me drive the truck around for a while to make sure there are no problems down the road with my set up and ill repost every now and then to let u know how it all turns out...but so far so good.

I strongly disagree with that statement in bold above.

From my buddy miesk5:

TSB 89-09-18 Introduction to the E4OD
ISSUE: The E4OD is a new 4-speed automatic overdrive transmission. The E4OD transmission was derived from the C-6 automatic (3-speed) transmission.

ACTION: Use the following information to familiarize yourself with the various E4OD components. This information can help you explain the operation of the transmission to the customer.

The E4OD uses electronics to control shift points, pressure regulation and torque converter clutch control. This provides high quality shifts, good fuel economy and overall performance. The engine and transmission are monitored with diagnostic testing available through the EEC-IV Quick Test. The E4OD operations are provided by both operator selected positions of the manual selector lever and with an overdrive cancel switch located on the instrument panel.

FUNCTIONS
P (Park), R (Reverse), and N (Neutral) are the same as other Ford automatic transmissions.
D (Overdrive - normal driving position) provides all automatic shifts through fourth gear (overdrive) along with application and release of the converter clutch. The transmission may also be shifted manually between all forward ranges.
D (Overdrive - with overdrive cancel switch activated, amber light on. This position is selected by pushing the button on the instrument panel, or shift stalk on later models.) provides all automatic shifts, including the application and release of the converter clutch, except the shift into overdrive. It is used to provide additional engine braking for descending grades.
2 (Manual second) provides only second gear operation regardless of vehicle speed. It is useful for start-up on slippery surfaces or to provide engine braking on downgrades.
1 (Manual low) provides only low (1st) gear at start-ups. At higher speeds it results in a downshift to second gear followed by an automatic downshift to low which occurs when vehicle speed decreases enough. Once in low, the transmission will stay in low until the selector is moved to another position.

ELECTRONIC CONTROL
* The E4OD is electronically controlled by a microprocessor known as the EEC-IV processor (electronic control assembly, ECA). The EEC-IV processor controls both the engine and the transmission on gasoline engine applications in the same microprocessor. On diesels the ECA controls the transmission only.
* Electronic control also provides powertrain system diagnostic capabilities which will result in earlier and more accurate resolution of E4OD malfunctions.
* Service technicians can detect many types of transmission concerns if they occur during the standard EEC-IV "Quick Test" on both gas and diesel use.
* Additionally, the overdrive cancel switch indicator light will flash during certain conditions which will inform the driver to go to a Ford dealer for servicing.
* The processor gathers information from sensors located throughout the vehicle which are monitoring vehicle operating conditions. Using this information, the processor determines the best operating state for the transmission. A solenoid body assembly, containing five solenoids, receives the processor signals which in turn produces the desired mode of operation.
* Altitude compensation for shift quality and cold ambient warm-up strategy are also provided in the electronic controls. This eliminates the need for changes to the transmission for operating in mountainous regions. It also allows the E4OD to operate effectively even in extreme cold.
* An overdrive cancel switch allows lockout of overdrive with the push of a button. The switch is located on the instrument panel and is useful for providing increased engine braking on downhill grades. Depressing the switch will lock out overdrive (amber light turns on). Pressing it again, will change the system back to normal operation. Whenever the ignition key is turned on, the vehicle will automatically provide overdrive operation regardless of the switch position the last time the vehicle was running.

Time will tell how well the transmission shifts as well as whether or not you like the shift quality under varying driving conditions.

Good luck!
 
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Old Nov 22, 2012 | 10:51 AM
  #27  
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lol yea time will tell. and thank you all for the imformation like i said tho its only day one....lol but it seems pretty good. shifts are at the right rpm and firm. she kicks down like she should (into the right gear and at the right rpm..)over drive is working and my boss who has a f150 with the i6 says it shifts and acts( besides the extra power) like it was the i6 i just hope it stays this way. b/c it is pretty impressive. i think what maybe helping me is the motor was built for a pulling truck by the last owner. i just gave her new rings and bearings when i did the rebuild. so most of the power is built in the lower rpms. so maybe the tranny is shifting early for the 302 (but right on for the i6)but it can handle the added stress so its not noticed??? ill have to look into this....
 
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Old Nov 22, 2012 | 11:44 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by marshbun
update!! ok so today i had alot of success! i had my old mechanic teacher stop by and he took a look at the 95 f150. he looked at her all over. and informed me that he is 100 percent sure i should only need the tps and the vss. i told him i have both hooked up. he brought out a voltmeter and checked my tps. he said i had it hooked up right but the side that was suppose to go to the computers ground was not grounded. so we spliced the wire and grounded it. started her up and around the block we went. she shifted spot on and was firm and pretty smooth and when i took her to wot she kicked down and took off with out missin a beat. just to make sure i started the truck and took her out again and again and not single a problem. he said my year and model of the truck has the pcm that more like a standalone and only needs the tps and vss. now it is day one so i am telling people who r thinking about doing this let me drive the truck around for a while to make sure there are no problems down the road with my set up and ill repost every now and then to let u know how it all turns out...but so far so good.
Very exciting! I hope your issues are resolved. If it continues to run/shift normally, could you post some pictures of how you wired the TPS and VSS?

TPS and VSS makes sense to me.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2012 | 12:13 PM
  #29  
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Ill do u one better if i can find time this weekend ill make a video to show u what i did. And why i did it. And a test drive. But i still would give it time to see if the fix is a good one or a bad one before trying it urself. If its bad i want to be the only one with a blowed up tranny lol
 
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Old Nov 24, 2012 | 09:14 AM
  #30  
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ok so since this build started the check engine light has been on. I knew it would be due to some of the senors no longer hooked up. but i thought i should pull the codes any way just to look. she had a few of course but most of them i already knew so it didnt bother me. but she had one that did. (code 636) which is tranmisson temp sensor out of range.....can anyone tell me what makes the sensor throw this code? and for anyone who have been following me on this thread is this code brought up by something i did? still shifts fine and all so i don't think it is affecting anything(yet) but i rather catch and fix it before it does.
 
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