390 ignition help
Senior User
Joined: May 2012
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Hey Joe, I'm not assuming anyone is an idiot (except myself maybe). Just wanted to confirm what had been ruled out and help narrow down the problem is all. Hopefully it is a points issue as seems to be your next option. Good luck with it.
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Palmyra
So when you say it has plenty of fuel when you pull the linkage. Ok so maybe I'm a goof but the accelerator pump is going to shot a nice steam every time you pull the linkage back as long as theirs some fuel in the bowls. So by looking down the carb & hitting the gas without the motor running is kinda pointless......
My question would be what kinda fuel pressure do you have when its running & your "trying" to drive it down the road?
My question would be what kinda fuel pressure do you have when its running & your "trying" to drive it down the road?
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New User
Joined: Nov 2012
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gpence i agree the accelerator pump is pushing fuel into the carb but since the truck wont start i cant give you anymore info on fuel pressure the problem is it doesnt fire not even a hint of the engine firing just turns over from the starter thats it thats why im on the ignition system since ive double and tripled checked everything else i can normally figure it out but this has me scratching my head
Senior User
Joined: May 2012
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Hey Joe,
I'm wondering if you should consider again this issue of the ballast resistor you mentioned earlier. You say "i by-passed the balist resistor that is before the coil and it wanted to fire ran for a sec real rough had to order the new one which is not the same as the one on the engine idk if gthey changed from ceramic to just a wire style of if that is like the rest of the rest and jerry-rigged for it to work."
If this resistor you by-passed is the only resistor your truck had (that is, if you do not have the long pink resistor wire coming off your ignition switch and coiled under the dash) then when you by-passed it you would have had the full 12 volts going to to the coil, which may have fried something.
I know "fried something" is not a very technical term, and other people on here will know better than me the exact effect of having the full 12 V going to the coil and how to test for damage from ther, but there is a reason the resistor is there to drop the voltage (to 9 volts I think it is). This may not be the root of your problem, but if bypassing that resistor has fried something in your coil or elsewhere, you won't get far trying to diagnose and fix the problem.
It's not clear from your post when you did this by-pass. Have you checked for spark since you did it?
I'm wondering if you should consider again this issue of the ballast resistor you mentioned earlier. You say "i by-passed the balist resistor that is before the coil and it wanted to fire ran for a sec real rough had to order the new one which is not the same as the one on the engine idk if gthey changed from ceramic to just a wire style of if that is like the rest of the rest and jerry-rigged for it to work."
If this resistor you by-passed is the only resistor your truck had (that is, if you do not have the long pink resistor wire coming off your ignition switch and coiled under the dash) then when you by-passed it you would have had the full 12 volts going to to the coil, which may have fried something.
I know "fried something" is not a very technical term, and other people on here will know better than me the exact effect of having the full 12 V going to the coil and how to test for damage from ther, but there is a reason the resistor is there to drop the voltage (to 9 volts I think it is). This may not be the root of your problem, but if bypassing that resistor has fried something in your coil or elsewhere, you won't get far trying to diagnose and fix the problem.
It's not clear from your post when you did this by-pass. Have you checked for spark since you did it?
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