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Lug nut torque procedures

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Old Jun 14, 2014 | 11:01 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Tim Young
How much torque value do you loss with a 12" extension?
You don't lose an ounce. As long as the socket is in a straight line with the head of the torque wrench, no loss occurs. If you use a crows foot or something that extends the distance between the handle and the head, then it makes a difference. Torque away.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2014 | 01:36 PM
  #17  
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I've heard that putting wd-40 or something like it will cause you to over torque the nuts causing you to possibly crack a stud.. anyone have any input
 
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Old Jun 14, 2014 | 04:08 PM
  #18  
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Great post, but I have to ask, do you lift the wheels off the ground when torquing?
 
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Old Jun 14, 2014 | 04:39 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by cv67cheng
Great post, but I have to ask, do you lift the wheels off the ground when torquing?
I put the lug nuts on hand tight in the proper sequence, then use my impact to seat the wheel. Then, I lower the truck and torque to 165. I use a specific lug nut socket that has the reach and does not require an extension.

Yes, an extension will alter the final torque. However, if you have a quality digital torque wrench you will see the readout to insure that the proper torque value is achieved.

On all of my other vehicles, I torque to final value in the air since they use bolts and do not require high torque. However, it seems even the wheel can become off center while lowering it while the nuts are loose on the truck - most of the weight will be on the lower bolts. Next time, I will torque while in the air just to be on the safe side.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2014 | 04:51 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by mmm635
I put the lug nuts on hand tight in the proper sequence, then use my impact to seat the wheel. Then, I lower the truck and torque to 165. I use a specific lug nut socket that has the reach and does not require an extension.

Yes, an extension will alter the final torque. However, if you have a quality digital torque wrench you will see the readout to insure that the proper torque value is achieved.

On all of my other vehicles, I torque to final value in the air since they use bolts and do not require high torque. However, it seems even the wheel can become off center while lowering it while the nuts are loose on the truck - most of the weight will be on the lower bolts. Next time, I will torque while in the air just to be on the safe side.
Kinda hard to offset load the studs on a hub-centric wheel!
 
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Old Jun 14, 2014 | 05:50 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Blapensee
I've heard that putting wd-40 or something like it will cause you to over torque the nuts causing you to possibly crack a stud.. anyone have any input
Yes, it certainly could because it magnifies the clamping load of the fastener. Porthole wasn't suggesting oiling the threads, but rather the joint between the washer and the body of the nut.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2014 | 09:40 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 720Deere
Kinda hard to offset load the studs on a hub-centric wheel!
All the BMW's and Porsches I have owned are hubcentric and you can easily put the wheel off center if not properly torqued down. It does not take much movement of the wheel to make the car slightly shake as a result. I have had quite a few cars at my shop for this very reason.

Also, put a wheel on your truck with the nuts hand tight and you will see the wheel move up as you lower the truck. The tolerances are not high enough for what you describe, even with a hubcentric wheel.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 09:21 AM
  #23  
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I know I'm going to stir the pot with this one, but what do you think about putting never seize on the threads?

I believe it provides a more consistent clamping force vice running the lugs down on dry threads. But, you have to be sure it does not come into contact with the friction face (inside face of the washer) of the lug washer or cone part of the lug if using cone lugs.

I did some testing a few years back and getting never seize on that friction interface would drive up the clamping forces (stresses on the stud) significantly, upwards of 300% based on the measured stretch of the stud.

I also back off the torque values 10% due to the decreased friction from using never seize the threads.

After living in salty environments, I became a believer in never seizing every bolt/nut that came off my vehicles.

It's worked fine for me 20+ years and several of my vehicles have wheels that are hub centric.

Adam
 
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 10:16 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Adam R
I know I'm going to stir the pot with this one, but what do you think about putting never seize on the threads?

I believe it provides a more consistent clamping force vice running the lugs down on dry threads. But, you have to be sure it does not come into contact with the friction face (inside face of the washer) of the lug washer or cone part of the lug if using cone lugs.

I did some testing a few years back and getting never seize on that friction interface would drive up the clamping forces (stresses on the stud) significantly, upwards of 300% based on the measured stretch of the stud.

I also back off the torque values 10% due to the decreased friction from using never seize the threads.

After living in salty environments, I became a believer in never seizing every bolt/nut that came off my vehicles.

It's worked fine for me 20+ years and several of my vehicles have wheels that are hub centric.

Adam
This will most certainly turn out to be similar to a holy war if it follows suit with all the other internet forums...

Torque specs are usually rated for clean and dry threads, not oiled or even lightly oiled or with an anti-seize agent..

I only advise lubricant on mating surfaces to reduce galling. Never use it or advise its use on threads..
 
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 10:20 AM
  #25  
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Torque wrenches are not calibrated with extensions and extensions will alter your torque reading slightly depending upon the length and hardness of the extension. I use the shortest "Impact" rated extension possible and consider it sufficient.
 
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