I have a mostly stock 92 f150 5.8 Auto 4wd. lookin to get some more power out of it. i dont need 500 hp, but i need to be able to turn 35s in the mud no problem. i was gonna start with exhaust (cat delete and a magnaflow muffler) then maybe intake manifold, throttle body and get rid of some emissions stuff. the only intake i saw for the truck 5.8 was a $700 edelbrock. anyone got some suggestions?

second question is about headers. i dont think long tubes will fit b/c of the transfer case, but would shortys fit?

 

You need gears first and foremost.. no engine mod will help if the truck doesn't have enough mechanical advantage in the drivetrain. And then the stock cam has to go and you need longtubes, and if you got money left after all that replace both the heads and intake at the same time since they're equally restrictive on this motor. For heads we're talking GT40s and I like the ProProducts Typhoon at $400 over the Eddy truck anyday.

 

Im planning on 3.55s and a powertrax lock right in the rear. The only prof products intakes i saw were for mustangs (intake on the passenger side instead of drivers).

what about the exhaust fitting around the tranny/transfer case, will i need something custom?

 

You're gonna need 4.30 to 4.56 gears.

They fit any Windsor motor and the upper is reversable

Likely yes.

 

I had no idea they were reversible. good info.

about the gears, im not sure i want to go that high. i still want some streetability to this truck. i had 4.56s in my bronc and its top speed was like 55. i have 4.10s in my mustang and it tops off at 130ish (i know the tranny gearing is different but still) what about 3.73 or 4.10?

 

What trans you got the E4OD? If so your highway RPMs won't be any higher than they are now(after you recalibrate the speedo), you need that much gearing just to keep the final drive ratio you got now and not lose anything. 4.30 gears and 35" tires equals 3.55 gears and 30" tires.

 

im guessing its the E4OD, im not really sure. i havent had a chance to mess with my truck much. its in Louisiana and im stationed overseas.

 

4:10 is plenty gear for that truck, id say you could stick it out with your 3.55s for a while. im currently running 4:10s with my 5.8 with 38.5" heavy tsl radials and my truck still pulls good (would definately be better with 4.56s) but my truck seams to pull harder then any of my buddies trucks, 350s, 318s, etc. and my motor to my knowedge is stock. EGR delete, no o2, no carbon can...etc., all emissions equiptment removed, shorty BBK headers to 3in Y pipe no cats, currently open after the y pipe did just have a glass pack on it. I also have k&n air filter and thats it, truck is a montster in 1st 2nd and still pulls some in 3rd with my zf5.

I'd suggest doin the exhaust, you may have room for the flowmaster long tubes but id want someone else to verify that, remove your smog equipment and put an upper and lower intake on there. There is another brand, non american, called typhoon that makes knockoff upper and lower intakes for half the price of the edelbrock however they are single tb styles so youd have to get a new tb obviously.

 

You have to take into account the diameter of the tires when choosing the gear ratio, they're an integral part of the final drive ratio equation. Taller tire reduce the effective gear ratio at the pavement, shorter tires increase the ratio.

 

OK, so as of right now, im going to run 33s, a powertrax lock right and 4.10s. i plan on doing a full exhaust, get my hands on some gt-40 heads and do the typhoon intake and emissions delete all at the same time. does anyone know of a write up or guide to removing emissions on a 5.8?

 

Emissions delete is pretty simple, remove everything attached between the air pump, engine, and exhaust, plug or remove associated vacuum lines, but leave the TAB/TAD solenoids beside the coil electrically connected. Also remove the crossover tube between the heads at the back and plug the holes with 5/8x1" coarse bolts and copper washers if using stock heads, many GT40s and most aftermarket heads don't have smog ports so this won't be necessary with those. The air pump itself can be left as an idler or replaced with a real idler pulley, completely deleting the pump is not possible on some trucks due to the belt routing.. the tensioner becomes ineffective.

EGR cannot be deleted without setting codes and possibly a check engine light(without a tuner.. if you have one of those then no problem). But without a tuner the best you can do is disable it, to do that it has to remain present and fully operational and you just put a blockoff plate between the valve and intake to prevent a fresh air leak. The RJM EGR Eliminator plug only covers half of the EGR functionality so there's no guarantee you won't still get a CE light, some do and some don't and I suspect that is a result of how the EEC is programmed with later models being more stringent with emissions devices.

 

This is what I did on my 95 351: I tapped the EGR hole in the upper intake with a 3/8 pipe tap, then used a 3/8 allen plug with thread sealer to plug the hole. Then bolted the EGR valve back on over the plugged hole with the plumbing and vacuum hose connected. It does occasionally light up the CEL in the dash, but I've learned to just ignore it. I also left the rest of the Thermactor system in place, except for the pump and plumbing to the thermactor check valve, replacing the pump with an idler pulley.

 

Cool, preciate all the help yall