Weird timing
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
I did the conversion to my '74 highboy, using a '76 distributor and control box. Not hard, but didn't really get me anything except to get rid of the points distributor with the worn out top bushing that sent the point gap all over the place.
If your distributor is still decent, just try to get it free...
If your distributor is still decent, just try to get it free...
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 370
Likes: 0
From: Near Nashille, TN
I would have thought your '74 would have been duraspark instead of points. But yes, it was worth it for me. If nothing else, it starts much better now no matter how long it sets. I got the connectors from the local pull-a-part. You could probably get the module there too, but I got mine new at the auto parts store. If you're gonna convert, you want the Duraspark II module with blue strain-relief connector (1977- up).
Duraspark II
Duraspark II
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Looked in the manual, apparently the duraspark came in late 74. I noticed that the weight mechanism would not move it's full travel so a little gun scruber and wd40 later it seems to move fine. Also noticed that the setting is 18L. If that designation really is supposed to be doubled that would make 36 degrees of timing just by the mechanical movement!? It was nice to see how a distributor actually works. Now if can just remember how it goes back together..............
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Got it back together but I have a decision to make. When I puled out the distributor the oil pump shaft came out. I think I can get it back in but while I was pulling the distributor out I think the shaft retainer thing fell into the pan. Do you guys know if you have to jack the motor up to get the pan off?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 26
From: Middle Tn.
Got it back together but I have a decision to make. When I puled out the distributor the oil pump shaft came out. I think I can get it back in but while I was pulling the distributor out I think the shaft retainer thing fell into the pan. Do you guys know if you have to jack the motor up to get the pan off?
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
So got the distributor back in and this time set the timing with a vacuum gauge. Found the most vacuum at idle, backed it off a little and took it for a test drive. Runs great, idles perfect, doesn't ping. Then I check the timing. 30 degrees advance and it will barely start when hot. So, so far I have verified that the harmonic balancer has not spun (by checking real TDC W/ a wire in spark plug hole), took the distributor apart to make sure the mechanical advance does in fact work. The only thing I can think of is maybe my timing light is crazy. It is the dial type and maybe it is inaccurate. I guess at the end of the day I don't care what the numbers say but the only real problem with setting the timing this way is that it barely cranks when hot. I am beginning to feel like an idiot.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,785
Likes: 4
From: Mddl A MexCans
BARELY CRANKS HOT, (HARD TURNOVER OR SPINS AND NO FIRE) FIRES RIGHT UP COLD ? Starter HEAT SINK ? tried a different starter ?
There were flywheel ring gear differences in some of these, starter hot taking on a larger amp load ? aLIGNMENT OF BLOCK/TRANS/STARTER ? Carb bowl boil over/ Phenolic spacer under carb ? flyfishing sorry....
There were flywheel ring gear differences in some of these, starter hot taking on a larger amp load ? aLIGNMENT OF BLOCK/TRANS/STARTER ? Carb bowl boil over/ Phenolic spacer under carb ? flyfishing sorry....
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,182
Likes: 1
that sounds...crazy.
the 390 in my Galaxie will barely restart hot at 16 degrees initial.
this can't be right, but thinking out loud- bear with me:
did you verify the #1 cylinder was on the compression stroke when you did the TDC test?
which cylinder are you using as #1? the different companies number them differently.
the centrifugal advance- are the spring tabs bent back so far that the spring is so tight it can't stretch?
something is really wrong here.
the 390 in my Galaxie will barely restart hot at 16 degrees initial.
this can't be right, but thinking out loud- bear with me:
did you verify the #1 cylinder was on the compression stroke when you did the TDC test?
which cylinder are you using as #1? the different companies number them differently.
the centrifugal advance- are the spring tabs bent back so far that the spring is so tight it can't stretch?
something is really wrong here.
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Well here is how I did it. Loosened the #1 spark plug (furthest forward on passenger side) and bumped the starter until I heard air. Then I moved the motor to read TDC on the balancer. I also removed the spark plug and stuck a wire in the hole and moved the motor back and forth to verify that the balancer had not spun. So then I removed the distributor, took it apart and the mechanical advance seems OK. As a side note: This is a 1974 F250. I used to have a 73 F250 with the same motor, tranny, rear gears etc. and the 390 is the 73 seemed stronger. Maybe it had straight up timing, hard to say. Anyway thanks for any thought rustywheel.
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
You might be on to something. Checked base timing again, 22 degrees, rev it up (W/vacuum hooked up) 22 degrees. Revved it more, 22 degrees. You know I did take the distributor apart and the Mech. seemed to move OK but it must not be.