I test drove a 2007 4x4 6.0 with a 6 speed manual today. Liked it a ton! LOVE that turbo.

I own/work a farm and help my parents on their farm. I commute is 400 miles a week to work writing tech manuals. I am 6'8" tall and tired of being crammed into small vehicles. I am tired of not having any power. I am also tired of trying to fix or modify junk cars/trucks I didn't like in the first place... Turd polisher broken!

Ok so I read alot of other advice threads on the coolant issues, the oil cooler, egr and etc.

I am going to stretch my finances pretty thin (for at least awhile) if I go after this truck, so I have some hopefully unique questions...

What kind of fuel economy can be expected stock? What kind of fuel economy is achievable with mods and what does it cost to get there? I would much prefer to keep the truck stock as possible to keep cost of ownership down.

I read there are "up front" costs of preventative maintenance on critical items, then an accelerated oil change schedule and fuel pressure worry... Rev-X... Other misc stuff. Does anyone have an idea what the cost is to get the truck up to maintenance spec and then what it costs to maintain that schedule? $500 bucks here or there could make or break whether I can get the truck.

I am a diehard manual transmission lover. This 6 speed seems clumsy as hell (and reverse is smashed into my knee). Every time I test drive a truck with it I leave with a bad taste in my mouth... However the taste in my mouth from the 4R100s I've driven is slightly worse. Is it worth looking for an 5R100 equipped truck, or is the 6 speed a blessing in disguise that just takes getting used to?

Also it would be helpful if you gave me your honest opinion on daily driving the truck... If I can't DD it or it doesn't make sense to DD it, I really can't afford it.

Thanks in advance.

 

Get you self a Scanguage II >> ScanGaugeII : Linear Logic - Home of the ScanGauge
They can be had for about $160.00 at Autozone. Program in the Xguages. Take it
with you when you test drive. You can program the Xguages in and check things.
You want to start the truck from cold. First check the battery voltage then check the FICM
voltage it should be around 48V but not below 45V
Then you want to be able to drive it for at least an Hr or two. After it is warmed
up get out on the freeway and at 65MPH for 10 min needs to be flat and truck unloaded you should not see more that a 15F delta in the EOT and the ECT. After that stop for a
quick snack at 7/11 and see if you have any problems starting while warm.

The ECT Engine Coolant Temp should be in the 190F range
the EOT Engine Oil Temp will be near the ECT most times.

I am forgetting things and I know that others will chime in on this.

Here is where to get the Xguages and the coding. It can be found here in the Ford 6.0
Ford Specific XGauges : Linear Logic : Home of the ScanGauge
Or just ask and someone will post the BIG list


Sean

 

Double post for some reason

Sean

 

DItto on Yahiko's info plus if you choose not to get the truck the Scan Gauge II is good for many cars.

As to MPG's-
I have an '04 Automatic Crew Cab Long Bed 350 Single Rear Wheel, I am am seeing on avg 18-21 MPG on my commutes. I drive to three or four main places to work, 90-120 miles one way. That is with the cruise control set around 73MPH, just where I found it performs best on my drives. When I haul (overloaded usualy) I see 13-15 mpg. I had an emergency at home one eve and pretty much drove the truck like I stole it from the 120 mile out spot maxed out 99mph, I only got 11MPG. (I filled up close to work and refiled next morning.) Additionaly I use the Ford Cetane boost, says its good for 125 gals a bottle, I just put the whole thing in. I did the math and found that I am putting in the price of 2 gals and getting 4 additional gals of MPG, so a net of 2 gals of free Fuel if you want to look at it that way.

 

Maint-
With that much driving you will be changing oil more often (annually) but the net cost is not much more then what you are doing now. Filters are cheep enough JUST GET MOTORCRAFT or RACOR, very critical. The oil you are looking at 2.5 gals per change.

Budget-
At the moment I am in tight spot budget wise as well. Wasn't earlier this year when I bought it, but things change. I have had $3k in stuff for the truck so far $1k could have been avoided. This is not a normal experience, I had 2 injectors ($1500) one I did one a shop did (the avoidable 1k), y-pipe $350, ICP $150, AC compressor replaced by shop $950.
Downside parts are expensive.
2 Pluses though: 1) you did say you are a wrench monkey that added with 2) this site kicks butt, the info here is invaluable and the people are awesome. the few probs I had the folks here walked me through it, this is my first diesel.
In short it can be done on a budget, only difference then running junkers is you will be spending more at one time but less often then you would with the junkers. What I have done is started saving 5% from each check and stashing it for the truck. When you hit a number you comfortable with set it as zero in the bank ledger, that way it wont hurt as much IF not when you have to fix it. They are reliable and enjoyable to drive.

 

lastly I found this helpful when buying mine:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...used-6-0l.html


Happy Truck Hunting!

Clayton

 

I hate to burst the bubble but it's almost 4 Gallons of oil.
15 Qt. But I did find that it is so much more easy than the
2002 Ranger 4.0L I traded in for it. The Ranger had a filter that
sat at a slight angle and the pan drain also at an angle So I always
had oil on a tire and some splashing. With the 6.0 The drain is pointed
straight down and the filter is not full of hot dripping oil. So it
much cleaner to change the oil.
There is an easy way to save on parts. You don't go to Ford for engine
parts you go to your local International dealer and pay a lot less.

On my resend trip to Southern California I got a whopping 32 MPG after I hit
Medford Or and refueled in Cottage Grove I was in T/H (Tow Haul) in Grants Pass
But most times on the freeway empty at about 65~70 MPH I see 21.5.
Beats the heck out of the Ranger with the 4.0

Anyway if you find some thing and want to ask about it please do and we will
try out best to help.

Sean

 

ok...

oil changes: 4 gallons every 5,000 miles.

trans changes, automatic: 20 quarts every 25,000 miles,
or four quarts every 5,000 miles.

can't speak to the six speed, but the 5 speed is one of the strong
points of the 6.0 package. excellent transmission.

now, the fugly part. cost of ownership.

add $5,000 to the price of the vehicle. is the vehicle still a good
deal? buy it. if it isn't, don't.

that's the short version.

 

one last thing, GO WITH YOUR GUT!
6.0l are awesome, but when buying anything follow the gut! If it just doesn't feel right don't do it. If you gut says yeah this is awesome then go for it.

Just my 2c

Clayton

 

Ok, I'll be the stick in the mud. If $500 here n there can crash your finances, maybe you should wait? It's a huge money saver to wrench on it yourself, and it's cool you have some skills but 500 bucks on parts is pretty tight for many of the common repairs. Hell, a single fuel injector is $270 plus the seals and you gotta float the core charge.
I think these are great trucks and we all want to say " join the club!" But I have been where you are and I would be worried every time It turned over a couple extra times before it fired up, or I found the oil a little higher than I remember.
And finally, these are 8k lb work trucks, you mentioned the farm so if it would come in handy moving trailers and stuff then great, but it simply isn't a commuter vehicle. The truck in my sig has an all time best tank average of 19.3 mpg but normally runs around 15mpg. Currently, a tank of fuel for me goes about 430mi or so and a fill up costs around $120.
Just some food for thought. Good luck whichever way you decide!

 

Wow! Thanks for the awesome replies!!!

Yahiko, good info saw alot of that in the threads I searched. Verifying cooler restriction. Good info and essential to look at before a truck with a 6.0 is considered.

Lupuseven, thats the kind of economy I am looking for. Do you live in a hilly or flat n' straight area?

The maintenance doesn't scare me, I enjoy maintaining vehicles. I do not however enjoy repairing stupid things because the design was poor. I am liking the 6.0 the more I read that you have to replace mother trucking EVERYTHING except the bottom end and the plastic that says the name. I figured a careful $1000 spent on fluids, filters, small upgrades, driving sensible with no chip and garbage like that and it would be good. Looks like more of a project that I'd like to take on. The link was helpful! Apreciate it! Thanks for the advice about going with my gut. My gut doesn't work, unfortunately. I just bought a lemon Subaru with main bearing noise starting, and before that I had many other vehicles that failed miserably in the course of trying to get them to go. The worst one was the framerail splitting in half on my 91 F150... Very sad day.

Yahiko, as a former Ranger owner of a 1998 2.5L 4 cyl with 5 speed and 1 wheel drive, I am all too familiar with the "Ranger Pick Up." For me it was more of a "Ranger Let Down." It was the worst vehicle I've ever owned. Slow, couldn't carry ****, broke constantly even though I maintained it very well, and got stuck on flat ground all the time. Yes, this beats the living heck out of a Ranger.

Fulthrotl, I am hearing the $5K comment alot from people I talk to outside of the forum. Basically you have to spend that to get the truck to maintenance spec... Don't even **** around, do the gaskets, the studs, the upgraded cooler, the non-vgt turbo, FICM, auxilliary coolant and oil filters NOW and bulletproof it before you even start driving it. Which, is completely out of the question. There is a misconception that I hear alot that "if the truck is not chipped and is maintained" it will run fine for XXX,XXX miles. From what I read here its hard to believe those trucks exist.

Rusty... I do agree with you on all points. Right now I am using a 4 cylinder Jeep and a trailer for farm work, and its everything I absolutely MUST have to survive. It does however suck totally. Its no fun at all. It has NO power and I get passed up hills by loaded semis when loaded and sometimes when empty with no trailer... Its tempting to take the risk because I am so hungry for power. I also spoke with someone who worked on them as a dealer mechanic and he said that around here in the hills the trucks get 15-18mpg. But its pretty clear to me that even thinking about buying this truck like playing Russian Roulette with a loaded 1911 Colt. My luck plus the biggest KNOWN RISK motor that exists on the marketplace today is destined for failure.

Again, thank you all for the great replies.

 

Mostly foothills around here I only hit a couple of steep grades now and then, and never get passed (loaded or not).

I recently did a run Home to Dallas with 1500lbs in bed & 8k on a tongue pull dropped it off and picked up a 6k on tongue pull then went to Huston then to Phoenix Dropped it off. Went to Lake Havasu empty Picked up a speed boat and went to San Diego to deliver.
over the entire trip the worse I saw was 13-15MPG

 

how in the hell, if you are 6'8", did you fit in a ranger? I am 6'6" and i look like that big lady in norbit trying to get into one....the movie with eddie murphy if you need a mental clue people.

 

Something to look for... When I bought my 2005 6.0 Excursion to replace the 2003 7.3 that I loved and wrecked, I wanted something affordable but with many of the big 6.0 issues addressed. I found an Ex with 158K (mostly highway) that had been bulletproofed. The previous owner put about $9K in it not too long ago. Had the head studs done, full Bullet Proof Diesel kit, EGR, oil cooler, remote oil filter etc. That's $8K installed. The other $1K was for an SCT touch screen tuner with EGT probe. He had no problems, just preventative work. I bought in TX, I'm in Illinois. I got a flight for $300 and drove her home. Bought it sight unseen for $14,500. I trusted the seller and really wanted the head studs and BPD setup. I got a pretty good deal considering the current Excursion market. The truck wasn't perfect outside, no rust just may need some paint in the future. The interior is in outstanding condition except for a bit of wear on the driver seat, can fix for a couple hundred if i should ever want to.

I knew I would have to address some Excursion specific issues regarding the wandering. Springs, shocks, sway bars etc. upgraded. Adding airbags for towing a heavy TT, bought new tires (he had new tires on but they weren't the best tires). I am now adding a BPD FICM, 270 amp alternator and bought new batteries to be sure the charging/power system stays heathy to prevent further FICM or injector issues. Also added a 4" exhaust, coolant filter and some other stuff I'm sure I'm forgetting.

That said, I have put several thousand in it since I bought it. I was planning to as many similar Excursions were going for $20K plus, maybe less miles but not bulletproofed. I feel pretty good that I have a good solid truck now.

Sorry to ramble, I guess the short of it is you might find one that has all the expensive work done. It's nice to have the piece of mind that your not going to have to drop $5k in a repair after purchase. I tend to keep my vehicles for a long time, would have kept my 2003 but unfortunately I killed it.

I had to find one pretty quickly and got lucky with the one I found but I looked at nearly everyone for sale in the country! To put it in perspective, I looked at a rust bucket in Wisconsin, beat to hell, interior was trashed from big dogs and a lot of rust. He had the BPD kit also but wanted $24.500! It's funny, he called after I bought my TX truck and said they had a buyer at $19K, but they would offer to me since I had looked first. I know they didn't have a buyer. I politely told them that I found something much better for much less.

Oh yeah, like everyone else said, all very good advice! Everyone here will help a bunch. I can't thank a couple of members enough for their advice. If you find something that's not close to you, a fellow FTE member might just go check it out for you if it's close to them. Don't be afraid to look everywhere! Not sure where you are but if in a salt area, look south for nice rust free trucks.

Last thing, since I started driving diesels, I would never go back to a gasser. Maintenance may be higher but longevity is better and the diesel is pure driving pleasure IMHO! Mine is a daily driver, probably get 14-15 mpg mixed driving and 16-19 highway. Just depends on your setup and driving style. I always heard what a horror story the 6.0 was. I was warned not to buy one buy everyone. I do work for an RV dealer and the transport drivers have had catastrophic failures. I suspect lack of knowledge of what causes the heads and injectors to fail and improper maintenance are mostly to blame. I was going to go with a trusty 7.3 but I wanted the TorqShift trans. I'm glad I made the choice I did. There are deals to be had as the 6.0 has a bad reputation and a lot of those guys are going to the new Ford motor, Again, sorry to ramble but I've recently been in your position and hopefully some of this may help. Good luck!

Steve

 

Yes, that's quite an image! I'm about 5' 10" and I've been told I look like a kid driving the Excursion!