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<CENTER>HEY ALL!!</CENTER>
Fed up!!
Ford can’t help
WHAT to do?? My 04 F-350 6.0 is giving me fits, local diesel shop just takes my money and throws parts at it with no results. The ford dealer about the same! I tow 29 foot bumper pull camp trailer and a small bike trailer behind that; at first I was unable to pull my 17 foot fishing boat over a short mountain pass. Had the EGR cooler, fan, fan clutch and radiator replaced as per diesel shops recommendations? Didn’t help the dealer told me my injectors were dripping and that would help my MPG to. Not! It was suggested that the PCM was bad because the fans still didn’t kick on. Did that, and for the first time I heard them kick on when pulling my “train” into the hills, worked great for one trip. Along comes the deer hunt and guess what happened again on the way up with just the camp trailer! Yep with no warning it goes from normal to HOT the radiator cap explodes and blows my anti all over. And now with no fans again I can’t even pull the grade empty. I have removed the big wide worthless tires, slowed to 40 MPH and it still over heats and fans again not running!!
I’ve read some about removing the fans, or the E-fan but didn’t find the how to, or what to do. Or a decision on if it is good or bad thing to do. I have dumped ten grand into this thing in less than a year!! I can’t do it anymore. If the diesel aint bad enough to do the job I will go back to my 77 351 it did it just fine. What’s wrong?
OH Yea and i still only get 8 to 9 MPG
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Redneck Rex
50-f4
2-79, 77, 76, 75, 74 F-250 4X4
2-84, 85, 86 Bronco II
97, 70 Merc Cougar
2- 76 p/u bed trailors
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Do you have the EGR valve plugged in? Did you check the wiring harness for Chaffing? Are the Head Gaskets ok?
How many miles? What mod's? Something isn't delivering the message to the fan clutch.
Hang in here, Ppl way smarter than me will be along shortly.

 

To find this you will need to run a live data log until the event happens to see what is going on at that time. Other than that we are just guessing, educated guesses from past experiences but still guesses.

 

2004 PCED On Board Diagnostics 6.0L Diesel SECTION 5: Pinpoint Tests
Procedure revision date: 05/24/2004

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AH: Visctronic Drive Fan (VDF) AH: Introduction

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AH1 PRELIMINARY DIAGNOSIS
Key off.
Carry out the PCM self-test.
Are any DTCs present?
Yes No
For DTC P0480, GO to AH4 .

For DTC P0528, GO to AH3 .

For all other DTCs, REFER to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Charts, Section 4 . GO to AH2 .

AH2 CHECK THE COOLING FAN FOR MECHANICAL BINDING
Note: The VDF is a viscous coupling. The viscous drag should be smooth during fan rotation. The amount of resistance is dependant upon the final VDF operational state before engine shutdown.

Key off.
Manually rotate the cooling fan.
Does the fan clutch rotation feel rough or binding?
Yes No
INSTALL a new VDF. REFER to the Workshop Manual Section 303 Engine Cooling. GO to AH3 .

AH3 CHECK THE VDF OPERATION
Note: Check and verify the most current PCM calibration level.

Note: Inherent to viscous clutches is a delay in transitioning from a low to a high speed or from a high to a low speed. This delay can vary between 10 seconds and 3 minutes and is dependant upon engine speed and clutch temperature. With the engine at operating temperature and at 2500 RPM, the delay should be less than 30 seconds.

Key on, engine running.
Access Output Test Mode.
Access the FANSS and RPM PIDs.
Increase the engine speed to 2500 RPM.
Monitor the FANSS PID and the VDF duty cycle.
Command the VDF to LOW.
Allow the fan speed to stabilize below 600 RPM.
Command the VDF duty cycle to HIGH.
Does the fan speed change and does the FANSS PID indicate an RPM change?
Yes No
If the FANSS PID stabilizes at less than 2800 RPM with the engine speed at 2500 RPM, INSTALL a new VDF. REFER to the Workshop Manual Section 303 Engine Cooling.

If the FANSS PID stabilizes at greater than 2800 RPM with the engine speed at 2500 RPM, the system is operating correctly.

For cooling system concerns, REFER to the Workshop Manual Section 303 Engine Cooling for diagnosis and testing. If the fan speed did not change, GO to AH4 .

If the fan speed did change and the FANSS PID did not indicate an RPM change, GO to AH12 .

AH4 CHECK THE VDF SOLENOID RESISTANCE
Key off.
Disconnect the VDF.
Measure the resistance between the VDF solenoid VPWR circuit pin 5, component side and the VDF solenoid control circuit pin 4, component side.
Is the resistance between 6.0 and 10.0 ohms?
Yes No
GO to AH5 . INSTALL a new VDF. REFER to the Workshop Manual Section 303 Engine Cooling.

AH5 CHECK THE VDF SOLENOID FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Measure the resistance between the VDF solenoid control circuit pin 4, component side and ground.
Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes No
GO to AH6 . INSTALL a new VDF. REFER to the Workshop Manual Section 303 Engine Cooling.

AH6 CHECK THE VDF SOLENOID VPWR CIRCUIT FOR VOLTAGE
Key on, engine off.
Measure the voltage between the VDF solenoid VPWR circuit pin 5, harness side and ground.
Is the voltage greater than 10.5 volts?
Yes No
GO to AH7 . REPAIR the circuit.

AH7 CHECK VDF SOLENOID CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Key off.
Disconnect the PCM.
Measure the resistance between the VDF solenoid control circuit pin 4, harness side and the PCM engine connector pin 14, harness side.
Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes No
GO to AH8 . REPAIR the circuit.

AH8 CHECK THE VDF SOLENOID CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Measure the resistance between the VDF solenoid control circuit pin 4, harness side and ground.
Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes No
GO to AH9 . REPAIR the circuit.

AH9 CHECK THE VDF CONTROL CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER
Key on, engine off.
Measure the voltage between VDF solenoid control circuit pin 4, harness side and ground.
Is any voltage indicated?
Yes No
REPAIR the circuit. INSTALL a new PCM.

AH12 CHECK THE FAN SPEED SENSOR FOR VOLTAGE
Key off.
Disconnect the VDF.
Key on, engine off.
Measure the voltage between the fan speed sensor VREF circuit pin 6, harness side and the fan speed sensor SIGRTN circuit pin 2, harness side.
Is the voltage greater than 10.5 volts?
Yes No
GO to AH17 . GO to AH13 .

AH13 CHECK THE VREF CIRCUIT FOR VOLTAGE
Measure the voltage between the fan speed sensor VREF circuit pin 6, harness side and ground.
Is the voltage greater than 10.5 volts?
Yes No
GO to AH16 . GO to AH14 .

AH14 CHECK THE VREF CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Key off
Disconnect the PCM.
Measure the resistance between the fan speed sensor VREF circuit pin 6, harness side and the PCM engine connector pin 46, harness side.
Is resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes No
GO to AH15 . REPAIR the circuit.

AH15 CHECK THE VREF CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Key off
Disconnect the PCM.
Measure the resistance between the fan speed sensor VREF circuit pin 6, harness side and ground.
Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes No
INSTALL a new PCM. REPAIR the circuit.

AH16 CHECK THE FAN SPEED SENSOR SIGRTN CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Key off.
Disconnect the PCM.
Measure the resistance between the fan speed sensor SIGRTN circuit pin 2, harness side and the PCM engine connector pin 22, harness side.
Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes No
INSTALL a new PCM. REPAIR the circuit.

AH17 CHECK THE FAN SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Key off.
Disconnect the PCM.
Measure the resistance between the fan speed sensor signal circuit pin 1, harness side and the PCM engine connector pin 6, harness side.
Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes No
GO to AH18 . REPAIR the circuit.

AH18 CHECK THE SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Measure the resistance between the fan speed sensor signal circuit pin 1, harness side and ground.
Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes No
GO to AH19 . REPAIR the circuit.

AH19 CHECK THE SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT VOLTAGE
Key on, engine off.
Measure the voltage between the fan speed sensor signal circuit pin 1, harness side and ground.
Is any voltage indicated?
Yes No
REPAIR the circuit. GO to AH20 .

AH20 CHECK THE SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR VOLTAGE
Key off.
Reconnect the PCM.
Key on, engine off.
Measure the voltage between the fan speed sensor signal circuit pin 1, harness side and ground.
Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?
Yes No
INSTALL a new VDF. REFER to the Workshop Manual Section 303 Engine Cooling. INSTALL a new PCM.




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heads lifting maybe?

 

Type in the search bar pully, or sim to your Question there was a thread on clutch fans topic pully freeze up? good luck and there are great guys here so if theres any other info to give that would be great

 

you need some gauges

shure would help if you could see the Fan RPM

I use SGII to watch the fan with

when the truck gets to hot I would expect you to say the Fan Sounded Like a Jet Fighter engine but you dont so dont sound like the Fan is coming on or working properly

you may have bad Fan Clutch

you may have a wireing problem to fan

you maybe lifting the Heads

You need a DigitalGauge that plugs into OBDII port Id be for making shure the Fan is working and coolant pressuere test before any head work

Also might need a Pressure gauge on the Coolant system Bismic Had aGreat thread on this


Oh and get it scanned for DTC

 

From the Tech folder:

Recommended readings - Temperatures and Pressures

STOCK READINGS
Normal Severe Service Alarm
Tranny Temp 150 - 195 195 - 200 220
Coolant Temp 190 - 200 200 - 215 215+
Fuel Press 60 - 50 50 - 45 45
EGT - pre Turbo 650 - 1200 1200 - 1250 1300
EGT - post Turbo 700 900 1000
Boost 0 - 26 27 - 28 28
Oil Temp 200 - 215 215 - 230 230+


READINGS WITH TUNERS
Normal Severe Service Alarm
Tranny Temp 150 - 195 195 - 220 230
Coolant Temp 190 - 215 215 - 220 220+
Fuel Press 60 - 50 50 - 45 45
EGT - pre Turbo 650 - 1200 1200 - 1300 1300
EGT - post Turbo 700 900 1000
Boost 0 - 26 27 - 30 30+
Oil Temp 200 - 230 230 - 235 235+

Also, a little insight in to how the fan SHOULD work;
Some say fan kicks on at 210, some say 215, others say 220. Full explanation: Engine temperature is not the only parameter that the PCM monitors to determine cooling fan operation. This is the reason that you will see some variation in engine temperature as it correlates to fan operation. The operation/description of the FSS (Fan Speed Sensor) from the PC/ED manual has a fairly good explanation as to how the system "thinks". This is not your traditional engine hits temp X and the fan clutch locks up. The fan speed sensor is a Hall-Effect sensor integral to the vistronic drive fan (VDF). The powertrain control module (PCM) will monitor sensor inputs and control the VDF speed based upon engine coolant temperature (ECT), transmission fluid temperature (TFT) and intake air temperature (IAT) requirements. When an increase in fan speed for vehicle cooling is requested, the PCM will monitor the FSS signal and output the required pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to a fluid port valve within the VDF. Engine begins to defuel at 221 deg. The thermostat begins to open at about 190*F to 195*F and is not fully open until about 215*F to 219*F..

Doesn't the '04 have the smaller water pump? And a plastic impeller? Just thinking out loud. Unfortunately, Cheezit's post is worry some also- especially after all you've done

 

belt slipping maybe?

 

Sorry Lilpooh
I speckt I b stupid now days! I have always felt like I was a fair mechanic could fix most any thing got in my way, but an electrician I am not or a computer tech!
And that’s what most of this sounds like to me!
Is this not the stuff the dealer or diesel specialty shops need to do with all their putter stuff??
I have checked fan freedom, no binding, EGR cooler replaced, fan clutch replaced, new radiator, new thermostat, ford coolant, new injectors, several radiator caps, my original thought was a head gasket as was theirs but they say it is good.
The only thing that has helped was the new PCM it lasted 4 months “till the warranty expired”
As lariat asked “EGR valve plugged in?” two so called “professional” shops have looked or worked on it you would think so!
Cheezit asked about head lifting! Is this possible to only lift on a hard pull?
As for upgrades it only has 5.5 inch cat back and a air cleaner intake box he had a PX3 programmer on it but that would never let me reinstall it

 

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Yea blade I would love to afford some add-ons like gauges but the dam thing has kept me in the poor house I had to refi just to pay for the injectors

 

I mean no disrespect when I say this, but if you are tired of throwing parts at your truck, you need to learn how to work on it. My above post is from the work shop manual, most of the testing required is to use of a multimeter, buy one and learn how to use it.


Sounds like your assuming the prior tech's have checked the EGR plugged in, have YOU looked to see if its plugged in electrically?



There is no magic answer for your problem, you need to take charge and start troubleshooting your issue. This means either buying a service manual or searching on-line for info, buying the proper tools and learning how to use them, and finally asking questions with as much troubleshooting data that you have recorded.

Until then, you will be just throwing parts at your truck.

Again, I mean no disrespect.

 

I know you didn’t mean no disrespect pooh I am just way irritated at this point! I have had an 03 6.0 a brand new Duramax and now this 04 6.0 and none of them has been able to perform like a truck should and I am a little to impatient now days to go back to school to learn how to do what I have paid someone else to know!
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Here we go!!
FOR SALE!! Sexy looking boulevard truck pick up chicks in this beauty wont haul, wont clime but don’t smoke either. It will haul you and your significant other around looking cool the cool big tires get ya the attention you desire but won’t get you out of a mud puddle or out of a snowy driveway but you can always get a AAA policy! New brakes on all four corners new, front hub bearings, the tires and rims cost more than the truck is worth! But you need something to hold them up so I put a 2004 F350 4X4 Power Chock between them!! Call me! NO!!!
The key’s are in it just come and take it the insurance will pay more than you will!!

 

X-2^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


You are going to need the Gauge to troubleshoot the truck

ScangaugeII is 160.00$$

there other gauges but you better make shure it will work with your truck
so that means post what your going to use


If I was going to throw one more part at it it would be a thermostat unless you have

Look at the wires that cross from engine to fan there is a pluge there they look OK