FICM
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 1
From: Coal Valley, Illinois
FICM
Okay, tried to get the FICM out yesterday. Pulled out the air cleaner, moved degauss bottle out of the way and unbolted the FICM. All pretty quick and easy. Could't get the connectors loose. Tried for some time but the back wasn't holding up, just can't do this stuff any longer! You guys weren't kidding when you said the connectors were the hard part! I did manage to damage one of the clips too. Hopefully a couple of large zip ties will secure the front plug. Also tore my arms up pretty good.
Anyway, put all back together and going to take to the dealer and let them do it when I have coolant and trans fluid done. BTW, I have a BPD 6 phase FICM power supply side to swap out. That leads me to my dilemma. I was just going install as 48V with the redundant power then if I wanted to try 53V or 58V in the future, I would. Well now there is no way I'm going to mess with it again! I posted about 58V before and got mixed opinions. Need to make a choice. Not worried about extra heat with 58V as the heat sink on the BDP side and circuitry is vastly improved. So... anyone using the BPD FICM? More importantly, has anyone compared 48V to 53V or 58V directly? I know the BPD is fairly new and many more using the Swamps FICM, any input would be great!
Thanks!
Steve
Anyway, put all back together and going to take to the dealer and let them do it when I have coolant and trans fluid done. BTW, I have a BPD 6 phase FICM power supply side to swap out. That leads me to my dilemma. I was just going install as 48V with the redundant power then if I wanted to try 53V or 58V in the future, I would. Well now there is no way I'm going to mess with it again! I posted about 58V before and got mixed opinions. Need to make a choice. Not worried about extra heat with 58V as the heat sink on the BDP side and circuitry is vastly improved. So... anyone using the BPD FICM? More importantly, has anyone compared 48V to 53V or 58V directly? I know the BPD is fairly new and many more using the Swamps FICM, any input would be great!
Thanks!
Steve
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
The normal tools (OBD2) that are used to check the voltages won't
work over the 50 volt range. So you will have to take the cover off
and test with a DMM. We also know that the injectors will work for
many miles at 48V but I have not seen any reports on injector life
at the higher voltage. But being an electrical device the harder you
push it the sooner it will fail. A 120V light will work at 130V but the life span
will be less. Your injectors are a lot more money than a light bulb.
Do you want to try it? I for one would not. 48V works fine.
If it's not broke why fix it?
Sean
Note : Push up on the plug before you squeeze the clip and pull down.
work over the 50 volt range. So you will have to take the cover off
and test with a DMM. We also know that the injectors will work for
many miles at 48V but I have not seen any reports on injector life
at the higher voltage. But being an electrical device the harder you
push it the sooner it will fail. A 120V light will work at 130V but the life span
will be less. Your injectors are a lot more money than a light bulb.
Do you want to try it? I for one would not. 48V works fine.
If it's not broke why fix it?
Sean
Note : Push up on the plug before you squeeze the clip and pull down.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 1
From: Coal Valley, Illinois
The normal tools (OBD2) that are used to check the voltages won't
work over the 50 volt range. So you will have to take the cover off
and test with a DMM. We also know that the injectors will work for
many miles at 48V but I have not seen any reports on injector life
at the higher voltage. But being an electrical device the harder you
push it the sooner it will fail. A 120V light will work at 130V but the life span
will be less. Your injectors are a lot more money than a light bulb.
Do you want to try it? I for one would not. 48V works fine.
If it's not broke why fix it?
Sean
Note : Push up on the plug before you squeeze the clip and pull down.
work over the 50 volt range. So you will have to take the cover off
and test with a DMM. We also know that the injectors will work for
many miles at 48V but I have not seen any reports on injector life
at the higher voltage. But being an electrical device the harder you
push it the sooner it will fail. A 120V light will work at 130V but the life span
will be less. Your injectors are a lot more money than a light bulb.
Do you want to try it? I for one would not. 48V works fine.
If it's not broke why fix it?
Sean
Note : Push up on the plug before you squeeze the clip and pull down.
Steve
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,116
Likes: 6
From: Florida
The normal tools (OBD2) that are used to check the voltages won't
work over the 50 volt range. So you will have to take the cover off
and test with a DMM. We also know that the injectors will work for
many miles at 48V but I have not seen any reports on injector life
at the higher voltage. But being an electrical device the harder you
push it the sooner it will fail. A 120V light will work at 130V but the life span
will be less. Your injectors are a lot more money than a light bulb.
Do you want to try it? I for one would not. 48V works fine.
If it's not broke why fix it?
Sean
Note : Push up on the plug before you squeeze the clip and pull down.
work over the 50 volt range. So you will have to take the cover off
and test with a DMM. We also know that the injectors will work for
many miles at 48V but I have not seen any reports on injector life
at the higher voltage. But being an electrical device the harder you
push it the sooner it will fail. A 120V light will work at 130V but the life span
will be less. Your injectors are a lot more money than a light bulb.
Do you want to try it? I for one would not. 48V works fine.
If it's not broke why fix it?
Sean
Note : Push up on the plug before you squeeze the clip and pull down.
All around good advice here! Can't give reps. But + 1 on all said
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Tampa
Don't feel bad I did the same thing with mine the other day. I think that my plugs are either seated extremely well, or they are stuck in there some other way. The videos online of just popping them out is not happening with mine. I broke the first one and was starting to break the second when I stopped. No room to work in there but I tried pushing them in also and working them out with no luck. Going to regroup and try again in the morning.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 4
From: Des Moines, IA
The idea of the 53v and 58v FICM's make sense when you think about it, but to me that's also just putting added wear on the injectors and more heat inside a module that doesn't need it. Tons of people have no problem with injectors for thousands of miles as long as the 48v FICM is functioning properly. Also, I would prefer to be able to monitor exactly what the FICM is reading at all times and not have the voltage simply be pegged out at what the truck can read. If you have a 58v FICM and it's only putting out 53v's you have no way of knowing. That's just as bad as dropping 5v on a 48v FICM except on the that you will know there's an issue on the 48v. Although BDP's FICM case is cool, I'm sure Ed uses just as quality, if not better components during his rebuilds, especially if you do the most expensive option. Also, Ed is still a fair amount cheaper and does good work. Lastly, I've never heard of anyone getting the 6-phase FICM and feeling they actually needed it. From what I've read it's a rather moot idea as issues with that section RARELY happen.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 1
From: Coal Valley, Illinois
Yeah, probably didn't need to get the 6 phase, but when I ordered I still wasn't sure if I'd go with the higher voltage. Even if I didn't, I still like the redundancy, just for piece of mind. I did figure since it was from BPD the 4 phase would be just fine but I figured WTH and just went with the 6 phase. Did I waste an extra $200 on the 6 phase? Well maybe but it's done and I will have the extra piece of mind, needed or not. It's stuff like this that I don't want to fail on the road and I will feel confident that it won't.
Thanks!
Steve
Thanks!
Steve
Trending Topics
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
I got a question you you.
How do you tell if one of the supplies have given up and
you running on the redundant one? Is there some sort
of indicator that you can see? If there is not some thing
to let you know then that is not cool because you kill the
first one and then keep going till the next one poops out
then your stuck. So how does it tell you that it is having a problem?
Sean
How do you tell if one of the supplies have given up and
you running on the redundant one? Is there some sort
of indicator that you can see? If there is not some thing
to let you know then that is not cool because you kill the
first one and then keep going till the next one poops out
then your stuck. So how does it tell you that it is having a problem?
Sean
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,263
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From: Houston, TX
no worries. i was bitc***g all the way til u could hear me about 1 mile down. i'm bout 6' 1" so i hurt a lot more just being bent over. also, i had my dear old wife hold my legs back so tat i didnt slip out from the work bench i was standing on.
honestly, i'd stick with the 48v and upgrade the components so it lasts a lot longer. if u wan to improve ur situation, u could change ur hood to the one with the twin air scoops so tat it allows more airflow over the top of the engine. someone posted tat after he did tat, the voltage was more consistent and didnt change up or down as much (between 48 to 49.5). mine has these sort of numbers after the upgrade, but it changes far too often. tats something i intend to do in the future as soon as i take care of a bunch more stuff on this truck.
hope tat helps.
honestly, i'd stick with the 48v and upgrade the components so it lasts a lot longer. if u wan to improve ur situation, u could change ur hood to the one with the twin air scoops so tat it allows more airflow over the top of the engine. someone posted tat after he did tat, the voltage was more consistent and didnt change up or down as much (between 48 to 49.5). mine has these sort of numbers after the upgrade, but it changes far too often. tats something i intend to do in the future as soon as i take care of a bunch more stuff on this truck.
hope tat helps.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 1
From: Coal Valley, Illinois
no worries. i was bitc***g all the way til u could hear me about 1 mile down. i'm bout 6' 1" so i hurt a lot more just being bent over. also, i had my dear old wife hold my legs back so tat i didnt slip out from the work bench i was standing on.
honestly, i'd stick with the 48v and upgrade the components so it lasts a lot longer. if u wan to improve ur situation, u could change ur hood to the one with the twin air scoops so tat it allows more airflow over the top of the engine. someone posted tat after he did tat, the voltage was more consistent and didnt change up or down as much (between 48 to 49.5). mine has these sort of numbers after the upgrade, but it changes far too often. tats something i intend to do in the future as soon as i take care of a bunch more stuff on this truck.
hope tat helps.
honestly, i'd stick with the 48v and upgrade the components so it lasts a lot longer. if u wan to improve ur situation, u could change ur hood to the one with the twin air scoops so tat it allows more airflow over the top of the engine. someone posted tat after he did tat, the voltage was more consistent and didnt change up or down as much (between 48 to 49.5). mine has these sort of numbers after the upgrade, but it changes far too often. tats something i intend to do in the future as soon as i take care of a bunch more stuff on this truck.
hope tat helps.
The heat sink on the BPD FICM is much better than stock so hopefully the heat won't be as much of an issue. I just replaced the batteries and have a 270 amp DC Power alternator sitting on the bench ready to install when my lugs for the upgraded wiring arrive. Hopefully that will save both the batteries and alternator from failing so often. The entire power chain will be much more reliable.
Wish I could have gotten the FICM out myself but couldn't hardly move any longer. All the strength in my fingers was gone and my arms were bloody too! For the time I would have spent continuing, it's better off to let a "pro" do it. I have to take it in for a trans flush anyway. Didn't take too long to get everything out of the way and unbolt the FICM though. The one bolt in the rear was kind of a pain because there's a hose right there. Thanks for the input!
Steve
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 4
From: Des Moines, IA
I got a question you you.
How do you tell if one of the supplies have given up and
you running on the redundant one? Is there some sort
of indicator that you can see? If there is not some thing
to let you know then that is not cool because you kill the
first one and then keep going till the next one poops out
then your stuck. So how does it tell you that it is having a problem?
Sean
How do you tell if one of the supplies have given up and
you running on the redundant one? Is there some sort
of indicator that you can see? If there is not some thing
to let you know then that is not cool because you kill the
first one and then keep going till the next one poops out
then your stuck. So how does it tell you that it is having a problem?
Sean
It seems like the best idea is just to stick with the 48v FICM and have upgraded components installed onto it but leave it with a 4-phase setup. That way if one of the power supplies fail you know along with being able to always read what voltage it is putting out. I myself will be sending mine to Ed and doing the 300 dollar option along with doing an Atlas 40 tune.
It seems like it would be beneficial to try and give the FICM more airflow, but I'm not really sure how you would go about doing that besides the idea above. Has anyone tried putting a small electric fan on it or something? I'm sure it probably wouldn't do it much good anyways.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 1
From: Coal Valley, Illinois
I got a question you you.
How do you tell if one of the supplies have given up and
you running on the redundant one? Is there some sort
of indicator that you can see? If there is not some thing
to let you know then that is not cool because you kill the
first one and then keep going till the next one poops out
then your stuck. So how does it tell you that it is having a problem?
Sean
How do you tell if one of the supplies have given up and
you running on the redundant one? Is there some sort
of indicator that you can see? If there is not some thing
to let you know then that is not cool because you kill the
first one and then keep going till the next one poops out
then your stuck. So how does it tell you that it is having a problem?
Sean
Steve
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 4
From: Des Moines, IA
Well, no way to know that I'm aware of. First off, the FICM is going to be far less prone to failure than stock. If a circuit does fail all is still well. I think it would be unlikely that there will be two failures but doesn't really matter if I monitor the voltage for FICM health. No real need to know if a circuit fails, what are ya gonna do? It will still be good until another failure, then it's time to take care of it. Will monitor as I would the stock unit so it is what it is. You tell there's a problem the same way you would with the stock unit or 4 phase BPD, monitor the volts.
Steve
Steve
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
It really would not be that hard for them to put a set of green LEDs on it
When one is out that circuit is dead and time to start getting a new one.
If you do something like Anthony you really want to know if you have a
pending problem. Having to replace a FICK on the road is not bad but
knowing ahead where you can replace it in a nice dry not too hot/cold
place would be a plus to me.
My self Coming from the aviation industry when something dies and the
redundant system takes over you get a warning so it can be dealt with
in a timely and safe manner. The reason for the redundant is to keep
you going till you can fix the main system.
Lets say that the main system failed a few weeks from the end of the warrantee
you won't know it then when it does totally quit you going to pay for a new
one when it should of been covered by the warrantee but you did not know.
Sean
When one is out that circuit is dead and time to start getting a new one.
If you do something like Anthony you really want to know if you have a
pending problem. Having to replace a FICK on the road is not bad but
knowing ahead where you can replace it in a nice dry not too hot/cold
place would be a plus to me.
My self Coming from the aviation industry when something dies and the
redundant system takes over you get a warning so it can be dealt with
in a timely and safe manner. The reason for the redundant is to keep
you going till you can fix the main system.
Lets say that the main system failed a few weeks from the end of the warrantee
you won't know it then when it does totally quit you going to pay for a new
one when it should of been covered by the warrantee but you did not know.
Sean
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,171
Likes: 2
I'll bet dollars to donuts (which is almost an even trade these days, come to think of it) that the 6 power supply channels are all in parallel and all are always working. That's how I would have done it. The voltage level is just a setting in a control circuit, you can make it whatever you want within the limits of the circuit. Higher voltage equals more current, which will possibly damage wiring, connectors, and the solenoids in the injectors prematurely, who knows?
Brian
Brian