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i'm guessing this is for the one in your sig with a 302?
i think its probably a 13, i seem to remember thats the most common pressure for the gas motors, but i think the diesels were a 16
13 lb radiator cap is what's called for according to my trucks owners manual...However, I have found that since I have installed a Champion aluminum radiator with 50/50 mix of fleetcharge and distilled water a 7 lb radiator cap seems to work better.
I am not sure how this is working, but with the 7 lb'er it seems that the coolant is being cycled from the block to radiator and back to block at a faster rate which I think is helping to keep my truck running cooler particularly when towing my 5'ver. Like I said...I am not sure exactly what's going on. I know the new radiator sure helps, but even so it seems the thermostat should regulate the flow around 192 degrees or so and now my fan clutch never kicks in anymore...
Maybe I am just nuts, but I know the fan clutch is good, so like I said the 7 lb'er seems to have changed the dynamics somehow...
beercan, it makes sense for the radiator itself to flow better because it doesn't have 25 years of corrosion, but the different cap pressure can't affect the flow of coolant. if/when it does start to overheat, your lower pressure cap will allow it to boil over at a lower temp than the 13# cap
beercan, it makes sense for the radiator itself to flow better because it doesn't have 25 years of corrosion, but the different cap pressure can't affect the flow of coolant. if/when it does start to overheat, your lower pressure cap will allow it to boil over at a lower temp than the 13# cap
Yeah that's kinda what I thought too...Just wonder what the temp would be for a boil over with a 7 lb. cap? That might be a good thing to know...Maybe there is a chart somewhere...
Yeah that's kinda what I thought too...Just wonder what the temp would be for a boil over with a 7 lb. cap? That might be a good thing to know...Maybe there is a chart somewhere...
Be aware that this chart is for water, not antifreeze, which makes the boing points sinificantly higher, depending on mix strength.
Yeah that's a great chart! I downloaded the pdf...According to the chart my 7 lb. cap would allow water without anti-freeze to boil at 170 degrees. So, I need to find the boiling point of my anti-freeze mix and up my radiator caps pressure from 7 lb to whatever it needs with my 50/50 mix to make sure I get my temps close to the engines optimum operating temp.
Anybody know of such a chart?
Oops...Nevermind...It is on my anti-freeze bottle...a 50/50 mix for me gives a boiling point of 265 degrees...so I guess I should go back to a 13 or 16 lb cap...to see if I can get my operating temp up to 180 minimum...right now...using a new aftermarket gauge I never get above 175 degrees...and this is with new radiator, pump, t-stat, and hoses...
Any ideas guys?
Thanks
Last edited by BeerCan500; Nov 13, 2012 at 01:18 PM.
Reason: added info
Was the replacement thermostat rated for 194/195F? What ambient temperature are is your truck being driven in?
The t-stat is the Ford E5TZ-8575-C from the dealership...it is the correct one and it is installed correctly as well as the by-pass ball in the housing...Best I can figure...even tho I don't hear the fan clutch at all is maybe it is on its way out...
As far as outside ambient temps...they have been in the high 80's here in Texas...