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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

stock radiator cap pressure

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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 09:41 PM
  #1  
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stock radiator cap pressure

Anyone know what stock pressure is for a 83 f150
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 01:33 AM
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i'm guessing this is for the one in your sig with a 302?
i think its probably a 13, i seem to remember thats the most common pressure for the gas motors, but i think the diesels were a 16
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 04:45 AM
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Should be either a 9 or 13 psi cap.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ke5adb
Should be either a 9 or 13 psi cap.
No such thing as a 9 lb. cap.

E5TZ-8100-A (replaced B2VY-8100-A & C9AZ-8100-A) .. 13 lb. Radiator Cap (Motorcraft RS-62).

Applications: 1961/96 F100/350, Econoline & 1966/96 Bronco / Myriad 1956/91 Passenger Cars.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 05:02 AM
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There is a such thing as a 9lb cap. There is one on my Mercedes.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ke5adb
There is a such thing as a 9lb cap. There is one on my Mercedes.
Wonderful, but this is FTE = Ford Truck Enthusiasts, the OP has 1983 F150.

So whatever radiator cap a Mercedes, Wartburg, Maybach-Zeppelin, Borgward, Wanderer, VW, Audi, Horch and etc German cars has, doesn't apply here.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 06:54 AM
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Diesels used the 13 also.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 09:30 AM
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13 PSI

Originally Posted by Franklin2
Diesels used the 13 also.
13 lb radiator cap is what's called for according to my trucks owners manual...However, I have found that since I have installed a Champion aluminum radiator with 50/50 mix of fleetcharge and distilled water a 7 lb radiator cap seems to work better.

I am not sure how this is working, but with the 7 lb'er it seems that the coolant is being cycled from the block to radiator and back to block at a faster rate which I think is helping to keep my truck running cooler particularly when towing my 5'ver. Like I said...I am not sure exactly what's going on. I know the new radiator sure helps, but even so it seems the thermostat should regulate the flow around 192 degrees or so and now my fan clutch never kicks in anymore...

Maybe I am just nuts, but I know the fan clutch is good, so like I said the 7 lb'er seems to have changed the dynamics somehow...
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 10:58 AM
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beercan, it makes sense for the radiator itself to flow better because it doesn't have 25 years of corrosion, but the different cap pressure can't affect the flow of coolant. if/when it does start to overheat, your lower pressure cap will allow it to boil over at a lower temp than the 13# cap
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 12:36 PM
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Boiling Over

Originally Posted by joshofalltrades
beercan, it makes sense for the radiator itself to flow better because it doesn't have 25 years of corrosion, but the different cap pressure can't affect the flow of coolant. if/when it does start to overheat, your lower pressure cap will allow it to boil over at a lower temp than the 13# cap
Yeah that's kinda what I thought too...Just wonder what the temp would be for a boil over with a 7 lb. cap? That might be a good thing to know...Maybe there is a chart somewhere...
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BeerCan500
Yeah that's kinda what I thought too...Just wonder what the temp would be for a boil over with a 7 lb. cap? That might be a good thing to know...Maybe there is a chart somewhere...

Like this?

Pressure and Boiling Points of Water

Be aware that this chart is for water, not antifreeze, which makes the boing points significantly higher, depending on mix strength.
 

Last edited by 1986F150six; Nov 13, 2012 at 01:28 PM. Reason: Spelling correction
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 01:12 PM
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Boiling Points

Originally Posted by 1986F150six
Like this?

Pressure and Boiling Points of Water

Be aware that this chart is for water, not antifreeze, which makes the boing points sinificantly higher, depending on mix strength.
Yeah that's a great chart! I downloaded the pdf...According to the chart my 7 lb. cap would allow water without anti-freeze to boil at 170 degrees. So, I need to find the boiling point of my anti-freeze mix and up my radiator caps pressure from 7 lb to whatever it needs with my 50/50 mix to make sure I get my temps close to the engines optimum operating temp.

Anybody know of such a chart?

Oops...Nevermind...It is on my anti-freeze bottle...a 50/50 mix for me gives a boiling point of 265 degrees...so I guess I should go back to a 13 or 16 lb cap...to see if I can get my operating temp up to 180 minimum...right now...using a new aftermarket gauge I never get above 175 degrees...and this is with new radiator, pump, t-stat, and hoses...

Any ideas guys?

Thanks
 

Last edited by BeerCan500; Nov 13, 2012 at 01:18 PM. Reason: added info
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 01:27 PM
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Stuck or wrong thermostat comes to mind.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 01:30 PM
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Was the replacement thermostat rated for 194/195F? What ambient temperature are is your truck being driven in?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 01:40 PM
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T-stat

Originally Posted by 1986F150six
Was the replacement thermostat rated for 194/195F? What ambient temperature are is your truck being driven in?
The t-stat is the Ford E5TZ-8575-C from the dealership...it is the correct one and it is installed correctly as well as the by-pass ball in the housing...Best I can figure...even tho I don't hear the fan clutch at all is maybe it is on its way out...

As far as outside ambient temps...they have been in the high 80's here in Texas...
 
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