1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Box Style Ford Trucks

New to site, 1959 F350 Dually need tips

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  #16  
Old 11-16-2012, 08:20 PM
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Thanks for the tip off, but those look like what ive got currently. hehe


Anybody have experience with installing an auxillary fuel tank? The 17?gal in the cab of the truck is woefully inadequate if I were ever tempted to drive it to Anchorage, the other city in Alaska, hahahah (not joking.....) Its an appx 360 mile drive.

I dont know what mileage im getting because of the non functioning odo, can anybody give me an estimate? Im guessing around 10 minus? Its the 59' structure with the 5.14 rear axle and duallys. (5600lbs with driver)
Remembering that its got the 75 300cid and and I think a Warner T-18 thanks to NumberDummys tip off.

Id like to get the tank out of the cab, for comfort, practicality and safety reasons. What would you guys think about pirating a 40 gallon tank off like an F700 and installing it under the bed?

Could I use the fuel sending unit on that tank and hook it straight to the stock gauge in my truck? Or would I need a new gauge.

Can I use rubber fuel line for the entire application or should I get metal line fabricated? I read somewhere that its dangerous to use only rubber. Thats the current setup lol.
 
  #17  
Old 11-18-2012, 04:20 PM
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That's a cool truck!

For a gas tank, sure you can get another tank for it. I think a tape measure and the junkyard will be your friends, find something that'll fit and hang it in there. What's your frame rail width?

Sam
 
  #18  
Old 11-18-2012, 06:46 PM
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As far as fuel lines, I always go back to the old saying about a chain only being as strong as it weakest link. I have a combination of rubber and steel in mine. Once you have a couple pieces of rubber (approved fuel line) in the system, I s'pose it could be all rubber. I bought a 25' roll of steel tubing that I think was meant for brake lines because with the diesel I needed return lines to the tank as well. For me, it was the cost. The steel is way cheaper, but I wanted to make up connections here and there that were flexible, much like the automakers do. I don't think rubber fuel line is bad, just more expensive......
 
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:07 AM
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If you are going to replace the in cab tank to a frame mount tank under the bed, you will probably need to use the sender that comes with the different tank to get proper fit and range.

Here is a way to check compatibility of sending units - all you need is an ohm meter or a combination meter with an ohms setting.
Remove the sending unit from your in cab tank (just a few screws) and connect the ohm meter leads to the electrical connection post and the mounting flange. With the float in the empty position read the ohms of resistance. Raise the float to the full position and read the ohms of resistance. If the sending unit is good, these are the values that your fuel gauge needs to read right. Now do the same with the sending unit with the tank you want to use. If the readings are the same, it will work with your fuel gauge. The ohm values for the existing sending unit may be in the shop manual, but I am far from my references right now.
 
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:50 PM
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Sorry I havent been on in a while, been busy. Thanks for the tips guys! I cant wait for it to start warming up so I can start working on this stuff.

Its looking like the priorities are going to be replacing the front shocks, getting the radiator repaired and the system flushed and lastly; getting the front end aligned. After that I plan on doing the more optional stuff; replacing the wood in the bed, getting real metal stakes for the bed. Those will be my goals for next summer! Someday I hope to have a garage so that I dont have to stop working on stuff for 7 months of the year.

Also, I'd love to report that the f350 will start down to -20F with the winterizing that ive done. Awesome.
 
  #21  
Old 12-03-2012, 03:59 PM
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Can I get suggestions on replacing the wood in the bed of the truck?

It looks like the easiest way to do it would be to undo the bolts that hold the wood boards that form the bed, remove them, and then find some way to jack the bed up so that I can replace the boards that run along the frame. Thoughts?

Probably just going to contact our lumber mill and see what they have available. Looking for cheap but relatively durable. It will probably be whatever is available, that will probably be spruce. What should I treat it with? I was thinking about priming it and using rhino lining, bottom and top. Thoughts? I figure the rubberized undercoating will be water and damage resistant, and I can spot refinish as needed. Not looking to win a beauty contest, just want functional.


-------------------------------------

Also, hahaha, always lots of alsos. What would you guys recommend for front shocks. 59' F350, 2wd. Would like to have some really robust shocks, I dont really care about ride comfort. Again, probably going to get whatever I can at napa, but I'd like recommendations. Ive used KYBs on my previous project, the Karmann and on my daily, the 85 4runner and been happy with them, but those arent really load hauling vehicles.
 
  #22  
Old 12-03-2012, 11:39 PM
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I put KYB's on my F250, and I can't say I've been very impressed with them.

The backs are great, but the fronts don't feel up to the task of handling such a big truck. Also had a set I put on a Toyota pickup blow out within a few months of pretty normal driving.

Napa has some HD fleet grade shocks, I would like to give them a try.

Sam
 
  #23  
Old 12-04-2012, 01:00 AM
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Slick, I'll go check those out tomorrow! Thanks for the tip!
 
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