Tachs gone wild
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New User
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Idaho
Tachs gone wild
Ok, before you go off on me about answering the same question already before, I did search and read most every post I could find on "1990 F159 won't start".
Pretty sure it is the EEC computer, but just thought I'd query a tad more.
1990 F150 4x4 straight 6.
(It looks like the 300 6 in my 79 F250 I drove for 28 years), w Fuel injection
I can tell if it is going to start by just turning the key on.
If it's going to start, (not lately), the fuel pumps whine a few seconds and shut off.
If it's not going to start, the fuel pumps don't stop whining and the tachometer jumps around alot and about 4 relays under the hood start clicking.
Ignition control module on the distributor was replaced last week.
(and I had to go back into town again to buy the "Special Tool" to do that) lol
So I have only basic tools, no voltometers or fuel pressure testers or anything beyond a few hand tools.
Assuming it is the computer, where is it, how to identify it, and where to find another.
Thanks to anyone who finds time to reply.
Pretty sure it is the EEC computer, but just thought I'd query a tad more.
1990 F150 4x4 straight 6.
(It looks like the 300 6 in my 79 F250 I drove for 28 years), w Fuel injection
I can tell if it is going to start by just turning the key on.
If it's going to start, (not lately), the fuel pumps whine a few seconds and shut off.
If it's not going to start, the fuel pumps don't stop whining and the tachometer jumps around alot and about 4 relays under the hood start clicking.
Ignition control module on the distributor was replaced last week.
(and I had to go back into town again to buy the "Special Tool" to do that) lol
So I have only basic tools, no voltometers or fuel pressure testers or anything beyond a few hand tools.
Assuming it is the computer, where is it, how to identify it, and where to find another.
Thanks to anyone who finds time to reply.
Postmaster
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,310
Likes: 9
From: E.Lincoln County, NC
You can see the EEC module on the drivers side firewall next to the bulkhead connector in this photo of my 94 Parts truck. I'll assume the 90 is the same. It will have the part number and "code" on the module. Rebuilt units are available through major parts chains.
If the calibration label is still on the door opening you can go to www.motorcraftservice.com/ & select "Quick Reference Guides" the go to the bottom of the page and choose VECI Labels. Enter your info in there and when it opens chose "Calibration Parts List"it'll give you a list with the ECM included aka "PROCESSOR AND CALIBRATOR ASSY., (EEC-IV)"
If the calibration label is still on the door opening you can go to www.motorcraftservice.com/ & select "Quick Reference Guides" the go to the bottom of the page and choose VECI Labels. Enter your info in there and when it opens chose "Calibration Parts List"it'll give you a list with the ECM included aka "PROCESSOR AND CALIBRATOR ASSY., (EEC-IV)"
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
The computer (PCM/EEC) is located in the same place for both model year trucks. One difference is the '90 version has the PCM removed from inside the cab. Whereas the '94 model is removed from the engine side of the firewall.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
Likes: 9
From: Rhode Island
The tach gets its signal from the coil control wire. If the tach is jumping around, then the TFI module is firing the coil.
Now I'm not 100% sure, but I believe the computer only has the ability to alter the spark advance. I don't think it can "manually" fire the coil. I'd suspect a failing PIP sensor inside of the distributor. I believe the "4 relays" you hear under the hood are the injectors firing. To be sure you could try unplugging SPOUT connector while it's acting up.
I suppose it could also be a failing EEC relay. Try swapping your computer relay with another one, such as the fuel pump relay.
Now I'm not 100% sure, but I believe the computer only has the ability to alter the spark advance. I don't think it can "manually" fire the coil. I'd suspect a failing PIP sensor inside of the distributor. I believe the "4 relays" you hear under the hood are the injectors firing. To be sure you could try unplugging SPOUT connector while it's acting up.
I suppose it could also be a failing EEC relay. Try swapping your computer relay with another one, such as the fuel pump relay.
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New User
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Idaho
okaaay, ....
I believe I found it and disassembled it, or some of it.
Chipped the ice off and am lost as to which part is the ECC.
The part I pulled off looks like just a connector lead in.
Looking at your pic again, is it mounted in the firewall?
There is nothing inside on the firewall, so, another bone please ?
If this is not the ECC, there is really nothing more in that location aside from the circular ? to the left.
BS
Chipped the ice off and am lost as to which part is the ECC.
The part I pulled off looks like just a connector lead in.
Looking at your pic again, is it mounted in the firewall?
There is nothing inside on the firewall, so, another bone please ?
If this is not the ECC, there is really nothing more in that location aside from the circular ? to the left.
BS
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New User
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Idaho
Lead Head,
saw your note after I posted again. But you are a bit over my head,
SPOUT connector ? , swap ECC with fuel pump relay? So where is the fuel pump relay? It's the same as the ECC?
I don't have a manual and it would take days to get one here.
LOL, this is why I hated to get rid of my 79 f250.
It only had a gas line and a wire to the distributor.
well, lunch break for me.
saw your note after I posted again. But you are a bit over my head,
SPOUT connector ? , swap ECC with fuel pump relay? So where is the fuel pump relay? It's the same as the ECC?
I don't have a manual and it would take days to get one here.
LOL, this is why I hated to get rid of my 79 f250.
It only had a gas line and a wire to the distributor.
well, lunch break for me.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2010
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As far as I know the SPOUT connector is near the ignition module. It is a round connector with either one or two wires. Not sure which on you truck. Disconnecting it breaks the connection to the PCM and timing reverts to whatever it is set at. So basically it won't advance. On my truck the relays are on the drivers side fender wall. They are up top under a plastic cover. You should see them clearly marked. Swapping the fuel pump for the ECC is fine, they should be identical.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
Likes: 9
From: Rhode Island
The EEC is the other side of that connector on the firewall. It's accessed from the inside. Trust me, it's there. It'll be a big metal rectangular box.
The SPOUT connector will be right near the ignition module. As mentioned, it'll be a two wire connector flopping about that just has a plug in it.
The SPOUT connector will be right near the ignition module. As mentioned, it'll be a two wire connector flopping about that just has a plug in it.
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New User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 7
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From: Idaho
Found it.
Well I never thought to look behind the driver "side kickplate" But there it was, thanks
Carquest, the only game in town can get one in a few days,(read next week), but is 145$ plus sh+tax right?
I said that's the price without the core, right?
He said the core charge is another 70 $
Part EEC-IV EFI-SD40A
F0PF-12A650-VA G
61ES50AN37 29453- 23 1J20
And evidently what I thought was the ignition control module I replaced last week is the TFI module you speak of. (I recognized the innate little one use tool I had to go back to town for).
If you think the price is fair I can order it and have it by Monday. So I'll be quiet till then.
Well I'm off to shovel horsesh#t, it's only 20 bucks a day but keeps a roof over my head. Thanks so far Y'all
Carquest, the only game in town can get one in a few days,(read next week), but is 145$ plus sh+tax right?
I said that's the price without the core, right?
He said the core charge is another 70 $
Part EEC-IV EFI-SD40A
F0PF-12A650-VA G
61ES50AN37 29453- 23 1J20
And evidently what I thought was the ignition control module I replaced last week is the TFI module you speak of. (I recognized the innate little one use tool I had to go back to town for).
If you think the price is fair I can order it and have it by Monday. So I'll be quiet till then.
Well I'm off to shovel horsesh#t, it's only 20 bucks a day but keeps a roof over my head. Thanks so far Y'all
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
Ignition Control Module (ICM) is also known as the Thick Film Ignition (TFI) module. One and the same thing, two different names.
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New User
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From: Idaho
Well guys, It sucks
Success that is.
I was worried because all the numbers didn't match on the new part, but assured by the Carquest guy that it would work, I installed it and the lovely inline 6 came back to life and started purring. It seems to run even better.
Carquest wanted 145 plus shipping and tax, 160 $.
Napa wanted 274 $ plus. Guess which one I chose, lol.
I figure I saved 7,000 or more, because I was running out of patience and was looking at Rangers. A 12 year old Ranger with close to 200,000 miles go for circa 7,000 $.
So many kudos to those that helped. Much appreciated.
Thanks Y'all
Success that is.
I was worried because all the numbers didn't match on the new part, but assured by the Carquest guy that it would work, I installed it and the lovely inline 6 came back to life and started purring. It seems to run even better.
Carquest wanted 145 plus shipping and tax, 160 $.
Napa wanted 274 $ plus. Guess which one I chose, lol.
I figure I saved 7,000 or more, because I was running out of patience and was looking at Rangers. A 12 year old Ranger with close to 200,000 miles go for circa 7,000 $.
So many kudos to those that helped. Much appreciated.
Thanks Y'all
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