Hi Guys,

I'm looking for a Dual Point Distributor for my 1971 Ford Ranger XLT w/360. My mechanic says that I should get one with both vacuum advance and mechanical advance (I'm not advanced enough to understand that).

I've looked around, and I can get one new - a Mallory Model 2755301, but that would be quite costly. In my online searches, I have found some dual pt. distributors that are for an FE, but they have odd part numbers on them. Some are only mechanical advance, or tach advance.

I'd be fine with an "old school" dual point from a 60's muscle car, as long as it would fit my 360. Ford actually made their own years ago. Or, should I just go ahead and get a new one?

What is the difference in vacuum advance & mechanical advance, and why do I need both? Or, do I? I just want it to run strong, and don't want a hot rod.

I found a Mallory Dual Point for sale (almost new) that I can get for $50. But the part number is: YL553HP. There are some old Ford dual points that begin with C5AF, as well - from the 428 C.J., I believe. Anyone ever heard of these? Part numbers really help me out.

Lastly, the reason I'm converting is that I want the vehicle to be "EMP Proof" as well as more high performance. So, sticking with the electronic box is not an option - I gotta go old school.

Thanks!
Bob

 

No Ford part numbers marked on parts after 1956, just casting or ID engineering numbers (when applicable).

Marked with ID number: C5AF-12127-E = Ford part number C5AZ-12127-E replaced by: COAZ-12127-L .. Dual Point Dizzy ~ Mechanical Advance / Obsolete

ALL 1960/71 FE Hi-Po's / No Ford Dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any.

If the dizzy was 428 only, the ID number prefix would be C6AF since the 428 was introduced in 1966.

 

YL553 seems to be an FE model from the research I looked at, though it doesn't have vacuum advance.

Personally, if your 360 is stock, then likely you won't see much any improvement by going through this. Leave it stock and run it.

Mechanical advance uses engine RPM to advance the timing. So, in doing so it doesn't give you much timing at low speed rpm(cruising). That is where the vacuum advance would. It reads engine vacuum and will advance timing when it see high vacuum(basically when you are not pushing on throttle). All this came around in the early 70's with emissions and they wanted more control of timing to control emissions.

In all, leave yours alone if you aren't "hot rodding" it. Just my .02