Correct and sometimes you might have to pump the pedal a couple times to get some pressure back in it after bleeding off fluid. Just remember, if you spend 2 hours trying to bleed this thing, your not going to get it. Go get a pre-bled unit to rule that out and take back the other parts. I did mine this way on my half ton and it was bled in about 10 pumps of the pedal. I've never installed a pre-bled system on one of these trucks and I changed my slave cylinder 12 times while my clutch fork was damaged. I know sometimes it can be frustrating, but getting frustrated will only make it worse. When your frustrated things just don't work like they should. Just calm down, breath for a minute, now get back in there and make it your b!tch!!!!

Best story I can think of with frustration was when I helped my buddy do the exhaust on his 2011 Dodge a couple weeks ago. He fought the down pipe for about 15 minutes cussing, yelling, throwing tools, etc all because the v-band clamp on the turbo wouldn't line up just right.. I told him get out and I worked on it. Pulled the down pipe out completely and started over. Only took me maybe 2 minutes mostly b/c I wasn't frustrated. I saw that the only thing holding it up was the clamp needed to be turned just a little bit more so the bolt would clear the fire wall. That was enough to keep it from lining up and the only reason he didn't see it is b/c he was mad at it..

 

Well where could I find a pre bled system around here ? All there is is napa and oreilly auto. And a ford dealer ( they said they don't sell pre bled systems. ) the closest city to me is portland , or. ( about an hour away)

 

You are exactly right. I had to put a steering column in a 91 IDI the other day. Buddy was frustrated and I jumped in and got it done in a few minutes.

 

You won't. Order online and save more money. Rock Auto has pre bled master and slaves.

#PS0713 for the cheapest at $112.79
#PF9005 for the more expensive at $195.79

 

^^^^ RockAuto FTW. I bet I could scrounge up a 15% discount code, too.

Thing is, if you're still having trouble with the switch, that's NOT weak hydraulics or a bleeding problem. That's simply the pedal arm not pushing the pushrod far enough. It's not the master that activates the switch, it's the pushrod, as you know.

The "clocking" mentioned above refers to how the arm that engages the pushrod is attached to the cross-shaft that goes through the pedal box. That shaft is splined, and the splines bite into the arm when you tighten the nut on the end of the shaft. Sometimes after dealing with clutch issues you have to adjust the position of the arm relative to the shaft (i.e. re-clock it). If the arm is not pushing the pushrod far enough (which it might not be), you remove the nut, pry the arm off (might be good to mark the position of the arm on the shaft with some white paint), put it back on rotated a bit counter-clockwise (so the arm is pushing the pushrod further), and re-tighten the nut. The arm should be disconnected from the pushrod as you do this. While you're down there, check for a sloppy connection between the arm and the pushrod eyelet.

I would start there, to see what impact it has on both the switch and the disengagement. You may have two separate problems, one confounding the other.

 

Ok. Ill give that a try if I don't get it soon. Also I need to make my own bushing. The one on the push rod. It's about halfway worn out

 

Also.i was bleeding an s10 a couple weeks ago.was having no luck.i then decided to have the pedal man pump it up until i saw fork movement,then released the fluid.then had him pump until i saw fork movement again THEN bled.it would not move enough fluid with one pump to refill the slave much less do ANY bleeding action.it took several times but i got the pedal to work and it works very nice.
s trucks suck about as much as yours will.i would seriously only do it that way.the master is just tiny in volume

 

That could at least explain the switch issue.

New pushrod, right, so the eyelet hole is not all worn and expanded (ovalized)? In that case, a good cheap low-tech fix - get some 1/2"OD x 7/16"ID brass tubing, and cut a slice just big enough for the eyelet. Use that as the bushing. Assemble, and then put a 7/16" drill stop collar on the part of the "****" on the arm that sticks through the eyelet. This keeps it in place and provides a tight but smooth connection.

If your pushrod eyelet were all screwed up (the "end stage" of chronic use wiith a shot bushing), the fix would be to cut the eyelet end off the pushrod and replace it with a Heim joint.

At least if you fix that, when you're dealing with the disengagement issue, you won't be dealing with multiple possible contributing factors.

Re. the S10 and bleeding, yeah, we're by no means alone. The old Saturns had hydraulic clutches, and bleeding them was a black art. If you removed the tranny, and accidentally raised the slave up above the master, it would just about guarantee getting air in the system, which usu. means new hydraulics time. Same deal, only reliable fix is a complete pre-bled kit.

 

Just buy a $5 heim joint from McMaster and solve the problem rather than put a band-aid on it.

 

I'm gonna give er a go tonight. I've been super busy. And working 6 days a week. The last thing right now I wanna worry about is the damned truck broke down.

 

Well I fixed it ! The pitman arm type thing that pushes the push rod was way off adjustment. So I took the nut off pryed it off rotated it forward put it back on. Put the nut back on she fired up. Runnin like a champ now. I'm glad I didn't spend $700 on a clutch just to find that it wasn't the problem

 

That's the "clocking" mentioned above.

 

Thanks a lot! Hopefully this cab help someone else too

 

So it all relates back to your push rod length on your master cylinder, doesn't it?

I figured it was that from the get go. Only because I make sure to measure travel lol.

 

Ya Well I didn't think about it till the safety switch wouldn't engage. Took your guys advice and bam there we go. I've replaced em before and never even adjusted the travel. Well at least I learned !!!!