Clutch issues
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
That could well be a bleeding issue (and I mean the hydraulics 
).
What's going on with the switch, and being able to start it? Did that improve any? Did the new master come with its own pushrod and/or switch?
).What's going on with the switch, and being able to start it? Did that improve any? Did the new master come with its own pushrod and/or switch?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 104
From: idaho
I can pull the switch by hand and it'll start. . The bushings on the pedal seem to be snug. . I need a vacuum bleeder but there's no fitting or anything to put it on. All there is is a set screw type bleeder
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 104
From: idaho
The new master comes with a rod and you remove the switch from the old onto the new rod. The spring seems fine & everything on the switch. I'm just puzzled because it seems the clutch pedal is going all the way to the floor just fine. But hardly any resistance. Therefore the safety start switch wont engage. Also after I pull the switch by hand and start it the gears just grind. .. So I'm thinking something may not be right with the travel of the master cylinder. But there's no way to ajust the rod length on these and it'd suck to spend $700 on a new clutch. Install it and come to find that it's not even the problem 
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
The new master comes with a rod and you remove the switch from the old onto the new rod. The spring seems fine & everything on the switch. I'm just puzzled because it seems the clutch pedal is going all the way to the floor just fine. But hardly any resistance. Therefore the safety start switch wont engage. Also after I pull the switch by hand and start it the gears just grind. .. So I'm thinking something may not be right with the travel of the master cylinder. But there's no way to ajust the rod length on these and it'd suck to spend $700 on a new clutch. Install it and come to find that it's not even the problem
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 104
From: idaho
If your referring to dual mass flywheel or single. I haven't touched any of that. I've had this truck 3 months. The guy said it had a new clutch "installed by the ford dealer " just before I bought it. I just don't wanna spend that much $ unless its an absolute necessity. ( I'm hoping its just the hydraulics. )
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,008
Likes: 7
From: Austin, TX
I'm still going to say that your hydraulics are not bled completely. We are on the internet, but it seems to me that your giving up bleeding the hydraulics. You may need to get a friend to give you a hand in order to get all the air out. Get a friend to work the clutch pedal while you open/close the bleeder screw. Just do it the same way as you would bleed brakes. Pedal on the floor, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, release the pedal. Sometimes it may even be necessary to build a little pressure by pumping the pedal a few times, then hold it on the floor and open the bleeder. Anyways. Try to bleed it again. Keep working it until you get pressure. If it absolutely won't build pressure, I would take back both the master and slave cylinder and go buy a pre-bled unit. If a pre-bled unit solves the problem, you may not have been bleeding the old ones right.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 104
From: idaho
Okay. Well I'm getting frustrated. But not wanting to give up. I love my damn truck. It's pissing me off though. I feel like back handing it. Haha. But I'll try it more after work. Pedal to the floor. Open. Close. Pump. Check fluid. Add fluid. Pedal to floor. Open. Close. Etc.