Hey,

Going to replace my ignition switch during thanksgiving break, want to get the tools now, I believe I need two different steering wheel tools though, in order to drop the column, can anyone tell me what they are?

Want to get them at autozone this week.

Thanks Again,
Devin

 

You don't need anything of the sort to drop the column, the steering wheel doesn't need to come off. Where did you hear you needed those things?

 

I thought in order for me to replace the ignition switch I need to drop the steering column. I have never done one, but my understanding is that the ignition switch is locked in somehow by the steering column so it needs to be moved down in order to get at it???


I found this for a 91, but I think it is the same concept on all vehicles? I don't know why he used a drill, makes me a little skeptical, but he is doing essentially what I need to do.

So I guess I just need a steering wheel puller. Also I will tell you the reason I am taking it apart, I am trying to get a set with a key so that way my truck will have a key, cause right now, the truck has no keys for the doors or ignition.

Let me know if you see flaws?? Or have a better way

Devin

 

Actually just found this one too,
is this the method you are thinking of?

So I should get one of these
Locksmart/Ignition Lock (Cylinder & Keys) (LC14060) | 1985 Ford F350 1 ton P/U 4WD 8 Cylinders 1 6.9L Diesel | AutoZone.com_

and be all set, hmm, and is it indeed the cylinder lock that lets me turn the ignition freely to start with out a key?

 

Do you want to replace the lock cylinder or the ignition switch?

 

No special tools needed if the cylinder lock comes out like it's supposed to.

The steering column is dropped down just a little bit to give better access to the ignition switch which is under the dash. Two bolts, and the column drops. A couple screws, the ignition switch is out.

The tumbler assembly is where you put the key, and it comes out after a release pin is depressed. You should not need to pull the steering wheel, but if you want to go ahead, you can buy the puller. What I did was buy a harmonic balancer puller, and used it for the balancer and the steering wheel. You might have to run to the hardware store to get some bolts to fit the threaded holes in the steering wheel if you do end up having to pull it.

 

If his truck isn't a tilt-steering truck, he WILL need a steering wheel puller or something that can work just like it like Franklin mentioned.

Any generic steering wheel puller will work. It'll come with bolts of different thread sizes and TPI so that it fits a variety of steering wheels. You'll want a big ratchet so you can break loose the steering wheel nut under the horn button. The horn button unscrews from the wheel with two Phillips head screws. Then, you take the steering wheel puller and thread into two holes in the wheel and use the puller like a press to press it off the splined shaft.

Then, you find the pin to depress where the lock cylinder slides in, press it, and rotate the cylinder and it'll slide right out. Slide the new one right in and it'll lock in automatically. You might want to lube everything up also.

If you don't have a key, and you CAN'T turn the lock cylinder, then you'll take a drill and drill out the lock cylinder. You'll want to try a few different sizes of bits to drill the tumblers out so you can turn the cylinder without a key. Once you can turn the cylinder, pull the steering wheel and press the lock pin in and slide the old cylinder out.

 

Hey, Devin... c'mon, man, gimme a break!

You said in your first post you wanted to replace the ignition switch. As the other guys have said, the ignition switch (electrical) is mounted on the column behind the speedometer.

But, now you're talking about the key & tumbler; this is different from the ignition switch!

I expected better from a kolij stoodint.

If you have a tilting steering wheel (try to push the turn signal lever forward; if you have tilt, the wheel will spring upwards) the 2nd video is how to do it... turn the key to RUN, insert a small tool into the hole and push, the lock cylinder can then be pulled out (probably with some wiggling).

Turning the key to RUN lines up the tumbler's pin with a groove or hole in the column, you then insert your tool and push that pin into the tumbler and slide it out. On your replacement tumbler, first push in that pin before inserting it into the column (in the RUN orientation); turning it to OFF sets that pin into the proper locked position, and you're done.

You might be able to see it if you look into that hole with a flashlight.

Below is a picture of a tumbler assembly from my brother's Taurus, the arrow points to the pin you need to push.

If you don't have a tilting wheel then, yes, you first need to remove the steering wheel although I forget why. After that, the procedure is the same (key to RUN, push the pin, etc.).

If you remove your wheel, I suggest first putting a piece of masking tape (or pencil mark) over both the wheel and column and then cutting it where the wheel meets the column, this is to mark exactly where it is installed so it can be put back into the same position. Some steering wheels are indexed and will fit correctly in only one orientation... when you get it off, look at the splines on the wheel and column, you can maybe see a flat, unsplined area that needs to match up.

Of course, it can be installed in the wrong location and forced on by tightening the nut (15/16ths SAE), ask me how I know.

I've seen some of those tumblers that turn without a key, replace the tumbler, yes. I didn't like the $10 AutoZone thing my brother bought for his Taurus, it didn't last real long. Look on Rock Auto's site and see if they have a factory Ford (Motorcraft) replacement, sometimes they're on closeout sale.

The square-headed ignition key is physically different than the round-headed door key... the door key also works in a locking glove compartment.




First, some pictures of a puller my father made, it's just a piece of aluminum stock with the holes in the right places. The bolts you need are fine-thread although I forget the size.

Commercial pullers I've seen all are real big and don't fit real well in that small area the horn bar covers (has the nut holding on the wheel).







Now, the tumbler & pin:

 

my bad guys, realized what the difference was after, I need to replace the cylinder.

Would you advise against a used one?

have access to a few when I go home, also that is how I plan on doing the door locks, cause that way I can get a matching set including the glove box??

Devin

 

A new lock cylinder for me was only about $7. I think it was closer to $4. I can't remember.

Either way, for the stupid low cost, I'd get a new one. Part of the reasoning is so you know that nobody else has a key.

I'd do the same for the door locks. New locks.

However, if you wanted, you could have a locksmith cut you keys to fit the doors and glove box.

 

Interesting, I considered this, but I think you just made up my mind, unless its real expensive. need to order my ford blanks now.

motor craft is $22 from rockauto, ordering

Devin