I have a very strange problem with my truck, sometimes my truck will not start, it will just turn over and over and no smoke coming out the exhaust pipe. when the truck is running, it runs totally fine the same way it's always been. i have taken it into get scanned a few times and nothing comes up. the shop said they think it's the ICP so i changed that and it still would randomly not start some days. and then the next day or even a few hours later the truck would fire right up. and the truck never stalls or hiccups when it is running.. so any help would be great, thanks.

 

How many miles are on your truck?????????????????
Does your Wait to Start light turn on every time you turn the key on?
How old are your current batteries?
Do you have a CEL Check Engine Light or SES Service Engine Soon on?
What is the current level of oil in your truck?
Are you on flat ground when the cranking with no smoke/no start occurs?
Put a volt meter set to DC volts on the glow plug relay(GPR), specifically on the large lug closest to the Driver's side and verify no voltage with key off.
With key on this post should be 12 volts or battery voltage up to two minutes after you turn the key to the run position.
If your battery voltage drops below about 10.5 volts while cranking(the glow plugs are still on up to two minutes at this point and placing load or current draw on the batteries) then the PCM will not give the signal to the Injcetor Driver Module(IDM) to fire the injectors.
If your oil level is low, then the HPOP might not be getting enough oil to push the fuel into the cylinder even if the IDM is firing.
Have you done the 50 cent mod and not placed it in your signature? Do you have a way to do a Buzz test with AE or similar scanner?
If you unplug your 9 pin connector leading to your valve cover gasket on the OUTSIDE of your valve covers you will see the following pin out.
G= Glowplug
I= Injector
C= Injector common

The pin out is as follows when looking at the pins from any direction.
G-G-I-I-C-I-I-G-G

Now you have the plug unplugged and have a meter set to Ohms or Resistance.
Place one lead on the G pin and the other lead on any piece of metal on the head.
What is the reading? Do this for all the G pin outs.
Place one lead on the I pin and the other lead on the C pin.
What is the reading?
Do this for the rest of the injectors.
Do this on both sides and report back to this thread with the numbers and I want the numbers in the same order that the pin out is listed for both sides.
This will tell us if you have a loose or coming loose connector Under your Valve Cover at the Harness or your UVCH. It can also tell us if any of your glow plugs are going bad. Good glow plugs are between 0.5-2 ohms. The lower or closer to 0.5 is best. I can not tell you the numbers for the injectors but if they are different then you need to pull your valve covers and do the 50 cent mod.
Man I am going to copy and paste this into a document so I don't have to type it all the time for these common issues.
Dwayne

 

All those mods and NO Auto Enginuity? Spend the 360$ and buy a super cheap laptop to put the software on. Trouble shooting your truck just went from total pain in the keister to losing 5-10 minutes of your time.

Also make sure the tin nut it tight on your IPR, which looks like this: #14-007 IPR Re-Seal kit 94-03 7.3L Diesel - High Pressure Oil Pump - 1999-2003 Ford 7.3L
The IPR is mounted on the back of your HPOP and just to the driver's side of the fuel bowl down about 6 inches or so.
Save your old ICP and place it in your glove box for a spare in a ziplock bag since it is still good. I hope you did not throw it away yet.

 

I have 450,000kms on the truck, yes the wait to start light comes on everytime, I replaced both batteries a month ago. oil is good i keep very good maintenance on this truck a long time. and no engine light or service engine light ever... the truck always seems to start fine when it's cold, the truck seems to only not start if i'm driving around and i stop at a few stores it won't start all the sudden when the truck is warm. and no i havent done the 50 cent mod.

 

I don't even know what an Auto Enginuity is?

 

It sounds as if it is worn orings on your injectors or worn injectors with truobles from a HOT START. I am sure that by monday afternoon the injector gurus will chime in here and let us know their thoughts. I have given you the info you need to do FREE checks on you own or have an electrical friend of yours do for you with the instructions above.
Dwayne

 

This is Auto Enginuity. Software that you put on a laptop to troubleshoot your truck and read codes so you can fix it yourself instead of spending crazy dollars at a shop or the dealer.
Riffraff Diesel: AutoEnginuity Total Ford Enhanced Bundle

 

it seems to be not getting fuel when the truck is turning over because there is no smoke coming out the exhaust pipe.

 

Dude, you have 240 posts! I assumed you have been reading here and learning for a while. I aplolgize. Maybe spend about 20 minutes a day in this forum reading about your truck or you will spend a lot of money when it comes time to repair it. That is why this site is here.
Good Day
Dwayne

 

my truck never has much problems so i have no reason to do much reading on here hahaha

 

It can get plenty of fuel and have no smoke when the IDM is not firing the injectors.
The injectors can also not fire if the Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR) is stuck or not building pressure from the High Pressure Oil Pump.
Check on the back of your HPOP and just to the driver's side of the fuel bowl and down about 6 inches or 15cm, where the fuel filter is located, for a sensor with a tin nut on it. The tin nut looks like this: #14-007 IPR Re-Seal kit 94-03 7.3L Diesel - High Pressure Oil Pump - 1999-2003 Ford 7.3L

Ensure that nut is tight and that the spacer is still in place. If loose or completely off then I am surprised it even starts at all.

 

P0470 and P0603 were the only codes that came up.

 

DTC P0470 indicates an EBP sensor malfunction was detected.
Possible causes:
damaged EBP sensor
open signal ground
damaged PCM

DTC P0603 IS SET WHEN THE PCM HAS LOST KAPWR
Note: This code may have been caused by disconnecting the PCM or the batteries.

Possible causes:
Battery or PCM has been disconnected.
battery cables loose or poor connection.
battery discharged.
open in KAPWR circuit.
blown fuse.
PCM.

Clear the codes and see if they return. Have you disconnected the batteries? That is the most common reason for the code P0603 and is nothing to worry about. The P0470 means the EBP sensor may need cleaning or replacing; or has damaged wire. Monitoring the EBP sensor outputs can determine the problem, but requires a diagnostic tool capable of reading live data or checking the voltage of the wiring at the sensor harness like AE.
Here is a video on how to clean the Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor tube.

 

could the EBP have anything to do with not starting?

 

It can make it run rough, give bad signals to lower your boost signal and sometimes give no start conditions but rarely on the no start. I would clean the tube or inspect it very closely to make sure it does not have any holes in it.
If the sensor is bad it can be purchased here much cheaper than dealer cost.
Riffraff Diesel: Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor

With the number of miles you have it is probably completely plugged up or has a hole in it.