Low Compression advice
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,123
Likes: 38
From: Columbus, Oh
Low Compression advice
Did GP's in my brothers 01 SD a couple weeks ago and checked compression. Well it wasn't good. 280-320 with most being around 300. This truck runs well, but smokes bad, and has so many oil leaks and crud in the engine bay/on the motor that I don't know where to begin. My question to you guys is what should I do? Funds are an issue here. Jim said one of his techs has a 7.3 for sale but there is little known about the motor and I only want to do this once. If the cylinder walls and pistons were to be ok, do I just do bearings and re ring it? Any and all thoughts are always welcome. Oh he also needs a new turbo and his uppipes are leaking. I told him to just give me 4k and we will make it right, but that's out of the question. Thanks fellas!
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 14,375
Likes: 604
From: evansville in
If the comp is down the walls most likely will have taper....wich is pistons and a bore job.
You probably need a good used one or go ***** deep on a complete rebuild the right way wich will give max life on it...the engine kit is 1200 or there about plus 5-800 for machine work depending on head and crank condition. Plus injectors hpop etc IF he needs any of that...and a turbo for? 800?
Still cheaper than replacing the truck...but im broke and if it were me it would b sitting for a while
You probably need a good used one or go ***** deep on a complete rebuild the right way wich will give max life on it...the engine kit is 1200 or there about plus 5-800 for machine work depending on head and crank condition. Plus injectors hpop etc IF he needs any of that...and a turbo for? 800?
Still cheaper than replacing the truck...but im broke and if it were me it would b sitting for a while
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,008
Likes: 7
From: Austin, TX
The best and cheapest route is going to be getting another used engine. I have a line on one that I can watch run for $400 right now that has around 220k miles on it. If finding a used engine is out of the question, the RIGHT way to do it is going to be bore, new pistons/rings, polish the crank, hone the mains if neccessary, deck block if neccessary, if the block is decked, the same amount must come off the tops of the pistons, etc. etc. etc.....
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 10
From: oklahoma
I went the cheaper way.still around a grand
rings bearings gasket's valve's and spring's and all the oring's from oring place on here.polished the crank and a valve job.new water pump 205*stat and pipe.but it has about 5000 miles on it and runs great.only bad thing is it don't smoke like it did before the rebuild.guess it was getting a lot of oil to burn to.used 3 gallons of oil on a short trip 300 miles.figured it was time to fix it.
rings bearings gasket's valve's and spring's and all the oring's from oring place on here.polished the crank and a valve job.new water pump 205*stat and pipe.but it has about 5000 miles on it and runs great.only bad thing is it don't smoke like it did before the rebuild.guess it was getting a lot of oil to burn to.used 3 gallons of oil on a short trip 300 miles.figured it was time to fix it.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 14,375
Likes: 604
From: evansville in
Amen there brother
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Columbus, Oh
Thanks for all the responses guys. That's kind of what I thought already but wasn't sure. A used engine is sounding like the best route, but I'm still a little worried about buying something I don't know the history on. I'd almost want proof of compression/maintenance but that's going to be hard to come by. Either that or buy from someone I trust. Hmmmmmm....
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,123
Likes: 38
From: Columbus, Oh
On a brighter note, did the same GP swap comp test on mine the following week and it all came back 380-400. Man was I pleased. You could hear the difference when we blew the oil out of the cylinders between the two trucks.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20,418
Likes: 196
From: AZ
Your making me wonder if I should do a compression check on this dually I bought before I do all the mods? It runs fine, no smoke, no misses, IDK. I'll see how it runs down and back to John Woods next Thursday, about 350 miles. See if it uses any oil also.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Columbus, Oh
Glenn, I'll ship you my compression tester if you'd like
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,123
Likes: 38
From: Columbus, Oh
If you're in there. Gave me peace of mind and found that my brothers motor needs rebuilt.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20,418
Likes: 196
From: AZ
I just looked and I also have the harbor freight # 93644 and I saved your post of what else is needed:
I bought the $30 dollar "universal" compression tester from harbor freight, that doesn't work for our trucks. But the only other things you need is an M10-1/8 Parker fitting to a 12" 1/8 grease gun whip to a 1/8 female to female NPT fitting and voila it works. I've got about 40 bucks into my compression tester.
I'll just make one but thanks alot for the offer. Its kindness like this that makes this site #1.
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I bought the $30 dollar "universal" compression tester from harbor freight, that doesn't work for our trucks. But the only other things you need is an M10-1/8 Parker fitting to a 12" 1/8 grease gun whip to a 1/8 female to female NPT fitting and voila it works. I've got about 40 bucks into my compression tester.
I'll just make one but thanks alot for the offer. Its kindness like this that makes this site #1.
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