okay I watched some manufacturer videos and read quite a bit on R&R of AC compressors.

I checked the pressure there is no refrigerant left so now worries there as far as EPA laws are concerned.

I have a Vacuum pump to evacuate after install

what I am unclear about is flushing the system out since mine was a "catastrophic" failure.

I am leading more and more to sending it in, but I read its a 4 hr job, if all goes well that is. That plus the price of the compressor is really gonna hurt. work is lean, but at the same time I dont want to create a $3k problem when I should have just paid the $1k to start with.

honest advise should I just send it in or can this be done with what I have? I do have a recharge kit too.

thanks!

 

Not sure about flushing the system but hell it took me 4 plus hours to get the compressor out . A tip take off the fan shroud .

 

If it was a catastrophic failure then you MUST flush the system and
replace the orifice and dryer. Yes this is some thing you can do at home.
You will also need a charge scale and an oil injector tool. If you have all
the odd tools then I would say give it a try if not then let the shop do it.
the tools can cost a lot and if you only do it once.....

Sean

 

best way to flush lines is with rubbing alchol and compressed air. as stated replace orface and dryer

 

put the vacume pump on it and get a gauge set so you can charge the oil through the gauge set and not suck air into the system and then charge the system to specs.And yes flush and replace dryer and orfices like others have said or spend more money, remember flush in oposite direction of original system direction would be good idea .

 

I just did mine twice because I didn't flush it correctly. I replaced the condensor compressor orifice tube and dryer. I did the compressor through the wheel well. Just pulled the passenger wheel. And inner wheel well. Still a PIA! Second time I took the hoses out of the truck and flushed a bunch of times making sure they where really clean. Make sure you put the pag oil in your new compressor! Take your time don't get in a hurry

 

Opted for having a shop do it, too much possibility for error just don't trust myself on this one. I dropped it off at a Diesel shop I have been curious about, which will allow me to test his honesty ethics plus lets me talk to him some and get a better feel for him. So far after talking with him in the shop for about 45 mins or so I have a good feeling we'll see when its all done.

I'll report when its done.

Thanks for the info really helped in my decision process.

 

when you get it back check and make sure they didnt "modify" the fender liner for quicker access. its a little flat rate trick.

 

I thought about doing that but it only took a few min to take it out...

 

Back in may I replaced the entire system with parts from Toulsey for 800.00. Compressor, evaporator, condenser, dryer, orifice tube and hoses. Then took it to a shop I trust and he evacuated it and charged it for 200.00. This was all due to previous owner using stop leak in the system. 1k for a new system.

 

Current estimate is $700 R&R New Compressor, flush, evac, refill ect. "Said" shouldn't go over $1200 if orifice tube, dryer, condenser ect need to be replaced. Also said biggest possibility is the fixed orifice tube, others depend on how bad it spread through the system, and whether or not he can get all flushed out. It hurts but the AC system and trans work is where I lack experience in and honestly kind of scared to get some. The only thing I have ever done to either is recharge the AC system and basic PM on the transmission.

 

For 300.00 more and a few hours of you time you could have a 100% new system. Ever time I have ever had a/c work done by a shop it is 1k min. I was quoted 2k for the compressor, dryer, condenser and orifice tube flush and charge. Then I checked out the parts at Toulsy and decided to get dirty.

 

Picked up the truck today
R&R compressor - no wheel well mods
Mech notes: Found fixed orifice contaminated with metal debris and filament particles from Accumulator....

New Compressor
New Accumulator Drier
New Fixed Orifice Tube
PAG oil
Flush

"Grand" total : 967.70

I am pleased the shop and the Mech ... LOL i just realized I never turned the AC on its too damn cold outside oh well will do it tomorrow.
anyhow told him my future PM plans for the truck, one was to flush the coolant system and he offered to give me hollowed out thermostat. Hurt the bank account but piece of mind is worth more.

Thanks again for all the info!

 

Hi All.
I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 2.3L. I'm replacing the A/C Compressor, A/C Orifice tube and the A/C Reliever Drier/Accumulator. My Chilton manual says to pour the oil out of the out of the old Accumulator into a measuring cup and put that much + 1 ounce into the new accumulator. These instructions are for the Accumulator only. If I install a wet compressor new should I add oil to the accumulator? Does the oil from the compressor migrate to the accumulator? I do not want to add to much oil. My first instinct is to just install the wet compressor with the other new parts and charge with freon. Am I correct or should I add oil to the accumulator/Receiver Dryer as well.
Thanks for any advice in advance.

 

this is not the right place to post this question. however welcome to the 6.0 powerstroke pages.

now with that said... your awnser
each part you replace requires pag oil to be added, the condensor and the dryer will need oil if they are being replace. being the compressior has oil do not add any to that item.
failer to add oil will result in a rapid failer of the new system. adding to much will reduce cooling