1990 F-150 xlt, 4x4, 5.0, automatic (on column)

Truck was running pretty rough so had work done (computer codes came up). Ran fine for approx. 10days.
Yesterday, pulled into driveway and pulled key out of ignition lock and engine continued to run.
Took negative cable off battery... still running.
While taking positive cable off (using screwdriver to open clamp up some), by accident I touched a metal part with screwdriver. Got a small arc and engine instantantly cut off.
Put battery cables back on, tried to restart engine... wouldn't even turn over.

With key out of ignition lock, here are the symptoms I now have:
Battery icon on, brake icon on, radio plays, wipers work, turn signals work AND GEARSHIFTER WILL MOVE TO ANY POSITION. None of the above should be happening with the key out.

I changed the ignition lock with a new one... no change.

Anyone with an idea what may be happening?? I don't know much about auto/trucks but if I can check/do a few things myself before taking truck to shop, I like to try.

Thanks for any advice given.

 

there is a rod in the steering column that operates the ignition switch, sounds like it's broke. It also locks the steering wheel and shifter.

 

Thanks for the reply.

How can I determine if the rod is broken?

Would this be something a person with limited knowledge (me) could repair?

Does it take special tools?

Thanks again

 

It's intricate, but if you have a reasonable set of tools and some spare screws, you can do it.

 

Thanks Steve83 for the info

 

My truck was jinxed in this area. My actuators would keep breaking and I'd get the truck towed to the shop to be fixed. I think it was on the 5th actuator that I asked the mechanic if he did not think that there was some sort of deeper problem here causing all these things to keep breaking. He said he'd look into it. So, when he returned the truck to me he said that he had found some burrs on the ignition that he filed off. He did such a good job that I'll probably never have another actuator break on me, but the side effect was that the key would sometimes fall out when running. After a while it got to a point where putting the keys in the ignition would just jam it up, but it runs, starts, and does everything like it's supposed to without the keys. You know, it just makes it difficult for me to keep up with my car keys, now.

Recently I had to do a massive repair to my clutch firewall and replace the broken pedal cluster. This made it necessary to pull the steering column. Out of all this work the thing that gave me the most trouble was getting the rod into the ignition switch properly during the final reassembly. I had to try 4 or 5 times to get it right. One of my experiences sounded very similar to yours. On another try I forgot that I did not disconnect the battery and jammed the rod into the contacts, making considerable sparks. Another time the starter motor kept running after the engine started. Various other things, too. Once I determined that it was ok (and recommended by the Haynes manual) to remove the 2 bolts and drop the steering column down, giving some clearance where I could study the switch, I was able to get it right. The manual said that for a standard shift, you needed to put the gear shifter in reverse and turn the ingition switch to the lock position in order to get to the proper starting position. Then you have some free play up or down to fine tune to be sure all the ingition switch functions work.

 

You shouldn't have disassembled the steering column just to get to the firewall - it'll come out whole pretty easily. I've changed one out in about 30min.

To get your keys to stay in, just replace the lock cylinder. It's only ~$12 at most parts stores and if you have a tilt column (like the diagram), you can change it in less than 10 seconds with only a paperclip. If you have non-tilt, you have to pull the steering wheel off to get to the release pin. Look it up here.

 

I had to take the steering column out because the pedal cluster casting was badly cracked and the y-support the steering column hags from was also broken. I had to replace one and fix the other.

Still, you must be a pretty limber dude to get down in a position like that and do that work so quickly. I myself, am now primed and conditioned for a limbo competition.

 

I just pull the one bolt that connects the column to the intermediate shaft (by the brake booster) and the 2 that hold it to the pedal bracket, and the 6 that hold it in the firewall, and the wiring harness, and pull it out.