I'm at 56K miles. I was gonna change out the coolant at 60K. Just did a coolant test strip and I'm border line need to add coolant additive so I think I'll just go ahead and change coolant and add a coolant filter while I'm in there. Anything I need to know? just drain, remove bottom hose, drain block (i guess) fill with water (and what?) run for a few minutes, drain everything again and add ford coolant and distilled water 50/50. Is that everything, and can I get to the driver side block drain or is EGR cooler in the way? anybody want to recommend a filter kit? Thanks.

 

Waaay more involved:

http://wpnet.us/Cooling_system_flush.pdf

I recommend having the dealer do it since there is so much distilled / RO water required and so much fluids to dispose of. I also recommend printing out the Ford procedure and discussing it with the dealer service folks since it seems many do not understand the full procedure with VC-9 cleaner.

Note - This is *not* the procedure for a contaminated system, there is a note on the procedure doc about contamination and the repairs and additional cleaning required before you do this procedure which is the normal 60k flush and refill.

The additional cleaning for a contaminated system is covered in a Ford video and involves the use of Simple Green Pro HD to clean the system followed be something like three rinses before going into the regular flush procedure with VC-9, more rinses and finally refill with new coolant.

 

Wow, that's a heck of a flushing procedure. The only way I'd believe the dealer did ALL that is if I stood there and watched. Thanks for the info and the linc.

 

The dealer is probably the only one that can do the job unless you have your own shop.

Since you have a history with the truck I would be inclined to follow what you have laid out...personnally.

 

You mean what I laid out at the beginning of this thread? I googled it and got Power Stroke Help or whatever his web site is and he just did a drain, fill/run, drain fill/run again, drain and flush through the degas for 15 mins. he didn't even use the iron cleaner. I'm not opposed to paying the dealer but I have a feeling they wouldn't do any more than I would.

 

Exactly, unless you paid dearly.

 

I know mine is going to an evans coolant truck shortly.

 

What is evans coolant?

 

It is supposed to be better than normal coolant, although there are a lot of comments that say "I wouldn't" and similar, although most people are just chicken: i haven't heard of a single issue ever caused by it.

It is waterless, does not cavitate, and run non-pressurized.

It does not carry as many BTU's per liter of heat away as normal coolant, cause of the "waterless" part, although that fact is counteracted by the fact that it boils at 400 some degreees, so it can actually cool better in some cases as there are no bubbles or cavitation.

Did I mention theres no cavitation? lol.

It never needs to be changed, no additives, No cavitation issues.

I'm going to do a major engine rinse somehow, with a cleaner or something, then I'm going to put the evans in, Then, I'm never going to worry about cavitiation, oil cooler blockage, anything.

Everything I can tell from it, is that it is far superior, and the only reason is isn't more popular is that it's expensive, and different enough to scare average people away.

I'm jumping off the deep and and going for it, the cooling systems and cavitation worries on these engines are enough for me to think taking a chance is worth it, if I want this thing to last any amount of time.

http://www.evanscooling.com/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7Py...eature=related