C Notch Question
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 247
Likes: 12
From: Walker, LA
C Notch Question
I have the Chassis Engineering rear leaf spring kit for my '51 and am using an explorer rear axle. Mocking everything up I'm thinking I may want a small notch just to be safe on travel. I found this universal bolt in notch and was wondering if it would work or of anyone has used it before:
Bolt-in C-Notch Kit | thorbros.com
Thanks,
Matt
Bolt-in C-Notch Kit | thorbros.com
Thanks,
Matt
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,189
Likes: 4,796
From: Burbank, WA
Personally, I don't care for the looks of it if you're running leaf springs. You're cutting a hole in the bottom of the rail and a big notch up the side without anything to tie it all back together solidly. I'd want the bottom rail welded to the bottom of the C notches, and the inside boxed together to put the strength back in you removed. That's my 2c.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Those should be strong enough to work. Makes sure you don't cut away any more than necessary to fit them in and put a bolt in every hole. if it was me, I'd weld the cut ends of the lower frame flange to the U piece.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 247
Likes: 12
From: Walker, LA
I definitely have my doubts about it, thanks for the responses. I agree with welding the frame lip to it that's a good idea. If I decide to use it, would it be of any benefit to cut out a similar piece (with the notch cut out) and bolt it on the backside of the frame? That way it would be the c notch, then the frame rail, and then a cutout mimicking the shape of the original notch kit (frame rail sandwiched in between all bolted together)?
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 302
Likes: 17
How good are your welding and fabrication skills? If you can handle the basics you could do something like this
for a lot less.
Keep in mind that I still need to box the frame before and after the notch. I'm waiting until I get the gas tank in to do that. The metal cost me about $20, and it took about 6 hours to fabricate and install...
If you would like more pics or dimensions just let me know....
for a lot less.
Keep in mind that I still need to box the frame before and after the notch. I'm waiting until I get the gas tank in to do that. The metal cost me about $20, and it took about 6 hours to fabricate and install...
If you would like more pics or dimensions just let me know....
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
An 1/8" thick doubler on the inside of the frame certainly wouldn't hurt anything. I like the tab from the top of the notch to the top frame lip TireDood used. An inside boxing plate from 6" in front to 6" behind the notch would be the ideal solution, but I assume you are trying to avoid welding.
Here's the way I do C notches deeper than 1/3 the frame height: Note inside of frame is boxed before notching.
Here's the way I do C notches deeper than 1/3 the frame height: Note inside of frame is boxed before notching.
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