Front cover
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 947
Likes: 0
From: Glen Rose, Texas
Around here people don't really base thing on mileage. It's more along how well the truck is taken care of, and the part of the world you live in. up north will have more problems than i do in Texas due to salt on the roads in winter.
Trying to Gain Knowledge
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,571
Likes: 2
From: Ezzell, TX
I am not sure. My 2001 has 219000 and I have not had any problems with the front cover. I had to replace the o-rings on the oil cooler. But it wasn't because of low oil pressure. I was having signs of a water in my oil. This lead to replacing the o-rings. What are all of the issues you are having? Someone with more knowledge than I will chip in.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,693
Likes: 3
From: West of Chicago
The front cover does not wear out. The LPOP itself could be leaking or weak. What issues are you having thats pointing you to the front cover? I have 282,000 miles on mine and never even touched it. I dont think anyone ever had too.
9 ECHO 1
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 12,467
Likes: 58
From: Missouri
Sounds like you have a cavitation issue. This comes from poor cooling system maintenance; unfortunately this is VERY common. You need to do a coolant flush. Also I would remove the water pump to inspect the front cover behind the pump. Once you are all done and if you are satisfied with what you see, look into ELC; Extended Life Coolant. Its usually red, and wont cause cavitation along with some other benefits.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
You dont want to be aggressive when dealing with any component that is attached to your timing cover. IT IS VERY FRAGILE! If you crack it, or break a threaded mounting hole... its done... and the engine MUST come out to replace it without causing massive leaks post install. This process is no joke. The motor weighs in at about 1200lbs when its ready to come out. It took the assistance of my engine crane to even turn the motor upside down on a 1ton engine stand. Massive.
You can pull everything off the front of your timing cover and have a look...but i doubt there will be an issue unless the engine has been mistreated.. i.e. overdue oil changes, run hot, worked to hard, poor fuel maintenance, etc...
The pump side of my cover after 398,000miles or so when it was pulled... had a couple scratches in the pump surface undercut. I put the old pump back on with the replacement cover and shes running like a champ. Almost at 401,000 now.
The old timing cover was still doing just fine even with the wear... but i broke a oil cooler mounting hole. A piece of the cast aluminum was fused to a bolt and was pulled out with the threads and expanded the hole enough to break the housing. Buncha fun.
What leads you to believe you have a problem with your lpop?
You can pull everything off the front of your timing cover and have a look...but i doubt there will be an issue unless the engine has been mistreated.. i.e. overdue oil changes, run hot, worked to hard, poor fuel maintenance, etc...
The pump side of my cover after 398,000miles or so when it was pulled... had a couple scratches in the pump surface undercut. I put the old pump back on with the replacement cover and shes running like a champ. Almost at 401,000 now.
The old timing cover was still doing just fine even with the wear... but i broke a oil cooler mounting hole. A piece of the cast aluminum was fused to a bolt and was pulled out with the threads and expanded the hole enough to break the housing. Buncha fun.
What leads you to believe you have a problem with your lpop?
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New User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Front cover
Hi Guys
I'm kinda jumping ahead to condemn the front cover from my idiot gage on the dash. The 2000 7.3 has 150k on the clock and has given me 21mpg, just love this truck.
I thought if the sender didn't SEE 7psi the ECM would not supply oil to the injectors or HPOP to protect the engine from damage. It starts with no reading on the dash gage for 2 sec when cold
I think the first step is to replace the sender because it has a delay before it swings up on cold start up. I DO NOT have any other issues, like sounds of a rod knock or piston slap on cold start up. The truck runs great.
To satisfy my actual pressure curiosity I'll hook up a pressure gage and see what I have. I've been told that there are 3 possible testing ports. Which one would be your best choice?
I've been on other Diesel sites for some time and appreciate all inputs. Since I can't put my signature on yet: 2000 SD CC SB 2WD AUTO 3.7 150K ITP Reg. Rtrn. AFE,Magnaflow 3.5''dp,4''back foil delete, zoodad mod,Hpx,.450 sonnax mod,DP 80e 80tF-5, autometer pyro and boost
Thanks for your inputs Tom
Tom
I'm kinda jumping ahead to condemn the front cover from my idiot gage on the dash. The 2000 7.3 has 150k on the clock and has given me 21mpg, just love this truck.
I thought if the sender didn't SEE 7psi the ECM would not supply oil to the injectors or HPOP to protect the engine from damage. It starts with no reading on the dash gage for 2 sec when cold
I think the first step is to replace the sender because it has a delay before it swings up on cold start up. I DO NOT have any other issues, like sounds of a rod knock or piston slap on cold start up. The truck runs great.
To satisfy my actual pressure curiosity I'll hook up a pressure gage and see what I have. I've been told that there are 3 possible testing ports. Which one would be your best choice?
I've been on other Diesel sites for some time and appreciate all inputs. Since I can't put my signature on yet: 2000 SD CC SB 2WD AUTO 3.7 150K ITP Reg. Rtrn. AFE,Magnaflow 3.5''dp,4''back foil delete, zoodad mod,Hpx,.450 sonnax mod,DP 80e 80tF-5, autometer pyro and boost
Thanks for your inputs Tom
Tom
Last edited by blk92prostreet; Nov 5, 2012 at 07:58 AM. Reason: additions
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From: Mesa AZ
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Mesa AZ
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