Resistor wire with Pertronix?
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From: Wichita, KS
Resistor wire with Pertronix?
Earlier this year I installed the Pertronix setup on my '63 F100 262 I-6. More recently I had an issue with hard starts when cold that (I thought) I resolved by replacing the stock coil with an Accel Universal 12V performance coil. It starts better now, but I'm wondering if the hotter coil just masked the real issue.
With the ignition on, I am only getting 6.5 volts at the + side of the coil. Could this be because I need to bypass the pink resistor wire? FWIW, the coil specs say this: "Super stock; primary resist 1.2 Ohms secondary 8.9 k Ohms; turn ratio 100:1; max voltage 42000V".
If this is the case, do I run a wire directly from the ignition switch to the + side of the coil? And unhook the existing wire coming from the harness to the + side of coil?
Sorry if this is a simple matter- don't want to fry anything!
Thanks,
Phil
With the ignition on, I am only getting 6.5 volts at the + side of the coil. Could this be because I need to bypass the pink resistor wire? FWIW, the coil specs say this: "Super stock; primary resist 1.2 Ohms secondary 8.9 k Ohms; turn ratio 100:1; max voltage 42000V".
If this is the case, do I run a wire directly from the ignition switch to the + side of the coil? And unhook the existing wire coming from the harness to the + side of coil?
Sorry if this is a simple matter- don't want to fry anything!
Thanks,
Phil
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Okay I realize that 6.5 volts at the coil with the ignition ON may be normal. When cranking, I have about 9.5 volts at the + side of the coil. Is this right, and if not, could it be the resistor wire issue?
The Pertronix kit I installed is the 1266 kit: http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/pert...FemiPAodMg4A7g
The Pertronix kit I installed is the 1266 kit: http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/pert...FemiPAodMg4A7g
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Okay I realize that 6.5 volts at the coil with the ignition ON may be normal. When cranking, I have about 9.5 volts at the + side of the coil. Is this right, and if not, could it be the resistor wire issue?
The Pertronix kit I installed is the 1266 kit: Pertronix Part No. 1266 - IGNITION KIT - Ignitor Ford 6 cyl pre-1965 Points Conversion Kits
The Pertronix kit I installed is the 1266 kit: Pertronix Part No. 1266 - IGNITION KIT - Ignitor Ford 6 cyl pre-1965 Points Conversion Kits
neither of those values are normal- both are about 3v too low.
i think you have two resistors in place, somehow.
installing the Pertronix kit alone does not mean that you can run 12v to the coil.
it sounds like you've got one of the original models. (there are 3 different types now) the original ones do not run with full 12v.
here's a link to the installation manual:
Pertronix Electronic Ignition installation for Ford Falcon Six: Page No. 1
i'm reading from the second page in that link:
1. Ignitor is compatible only with "points-type" coils
2. if your system has a resistor, do not remove it
3. never use the Ignitor with HEI-type coils
i think you're right that the hotter coil is masking the original issue (low voltage).
also- you're likely to burn up the Ignitor with that hotter coil. you're going to need to start tracing the wiring, and see why you're 3v shy in both start and run.
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are you sure you don't have the pink wire, AND one of these hiding somewhere?
http://www.northernautoparts.com/Ima...s/ph_28483.jpg
http://www.northernautoparts.com/Ima...s/ph_28483.jpg
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From: Wichita, KS
Thanks for the info. I will check into this tomorrow. I didn't see another resistor but will double check.
I did bypass the resistor wire by running a new wire all the way from the ignition switch in front of the resistor wire all the way to the coil + and I get full battery voltage at the coil now when running- over 13 volts. Not sure this is right so I won't drive like this for now!
I did bypass the resistor wire by running a new wire all the way from the ignition switch in front of the resistor wire all the way to the coil + and I get full battery voltage at the coil now when running- over 13 volts. Not sure this is right so I won't drive like this for now!
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From: Simi Valley, CA
All 1960/70 FoMoCo vehicles came with this:
COLF-12250-A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-37).
61.49" long / Color coded pink / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #20 gauge wire.
There were two other resistor wires offered 1971 and later.
COLF-12250-A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-37).
61.49" long / Color coded pink / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #20 gauge wire.
There were two other resistor wires offered 1971 and later.
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Thanks for the info. I will check into this tomorrow. I didn't see another resistor but will double check.
I did bypass the resistor wire by running a new wire all the way from the ignition switch in front of the resistor wire all the way to the coil + and I get full battery voltage at the coil now when running- over 13 volts. Not sure this is right so I won't drive like this for now!
I did bypass the resistor wire by running a new wire all the way from the ignition switch in front of the resistor wire all the way to the coil + and I get full battery voltage at the coil now when running- over 13 volts. Not sure this is right so I won't drive like this for now!
if i remember correctly from your thread a couple weeks ago, you've already verified that the wire from the "I" terminal on your starter relay is in place. that's the wire that would give you 12v during crank. long story short...if there's another resistor, it would be between the "I" terminal and the coil + post.
that wire goes from the "I" terminal, to the firewall plug. inside the firewall plug, it ties into the wire coming from your ignition switch, and goes from there to the coil.
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From: Wichita, KS
I don't see any other resistor.
With the Resistor wire bypassed, and key in "on" position, I get 12.3 Volts on the + side of the coil. During cranking it drops to 9.5 volts. With engine running it's at over 13 volts.
With the Resistor wire bypassed, and key in "on" position, I get 12.3 Volts on the + side of the coil. During cranking it drops to 9.5 volts. With engine running it's at over 13 volts.
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at this point, i'm going to have to guess that your original wiring is deteriorating, and that's what is causing the voltage drop. the one piece of wire that is part of both the "run" and "crank" circuit is the one from the firewall to the ignition coil.
i think the question at this point is...which way do you want to go?
you run the risk of burning up the Ignitor with the hot coil, and the full 12v.
you could either:
A. stay as-is and take your chances
B. continue trying to find the voltage drop
C. just run a new circuit (some new wire and a resisitor)
i think the question at this point is...which way do you want to go?
you run the risk of burning up the Ignitor with the hot coil, and the full 12v.
you could either:
A. stay as-is and take your chances
B. continue trying to find the voltage drop
C. just run a new circuit (some new wire and a resisitor)
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Didn't get a chance to work on this today- lots on the schedule plus the home water heater decided to start leaking. Luckily it was under warranty.
Given the above choices I guess I'll try to troubleshoot the voltage drop. So, where the resistor wire starts at the switch, I should be getting 12 volts with the switch in On position, right?
If no luck with this, I do have a new wire run from the switch all the way to the coil so i guess I could just put a resistor on this?
Given the above choices I guess I'll try to troubleshoot the voltage drop. So, where the resistor wire starts at the switch, I should be getting 12 volts with the switch in On position, right?
If no luck with this, I do have a new wire run from the switch all the way to the coil so i guess I could just put a resistor on this?
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On mine, the "run" wire comes out of the ignition switch, then ties into the pink resistor wire using a bullet connector.
you should have 12v in "run" at the bullet connector.
using NumberDummy's post above- the resistor wire is *supposed* to have 1.3 - 1.4 ohms of resistance.
using your voltmeter, check resistance between the bullet connector and coil +.
if its more than 1.4 or so, i'd rewire the circuit.
as you mentioned above, you could use the wire you've already run, with a resistor. we'd also do something a little different with the wire coming from the "I" terminal, so that you get a full 12v when cranking.
you should have 12v in "run" at the bullet connector.
using NumberDummy's post above- the resistor wire is *supposed* to have 1.3 - 1.4 ohms of resistance.
using your voltmeter, check resistance between the bullet connector and coil +.
if its more than 1.4 or so, i'd rewire the circuit.
as you mentioned above, you could use the wire you've already run, with a resistor. we'd also do something a little different with the wire coming from the "I" terminal, so that you get a full 12v when cranking.
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Mine ties in right behind the switch with a bullet connector also. My connector is a three hole connector withe the pink wire using one of these. I will check this as over lunch if I have time.
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The Bullet Connector is giving 12V in run. Need to figure out the best way to check the resistance of the resistor wire and coil + wire. since they are so far apart. 
What a pain working under that dash. I'm considering just taking the bench seat out while I get this straightened out.
What a pain working under that dash. I'm considering just taking the bench seat out while I get this straightened out.
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head to the hardware store- get handful of little "alligator clips", and a length of speaker wire.
now you've got 50' of two-conductor test leads.