Front end work.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 210
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From: Springfield
Front end work.
Hello folks.
So i need to replace the ball joints in my truck. Was also going to replace the tie rods since I'd be that far into it.
I'm wondering if there is anything else I should replace while i've gotten it all torn apart.
1993 Ford F-150 - 4x4
So i need to replace the ball joints in my truck. Was also going to replace the tie rods since I'd be that far into it.
I'm wondering if there is anything else I should replace while i've gotten it all torn apart.
1993 Ford F-150 - 4x4
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 210
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From: Springfield
I'm looking at rockauto for parts. Are there any particular brands I should stay away from?
I've heard good things about Raybestos ans was thinking of going with them for all the parts I need.
Any thoughts or input?
I've heard good things about Raybestos ans was thinking of going with them for all the parts I need.
Any thoughts or input?
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 422
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From: Charm City
There's only a few really good brand names to look for when doing chassis/suspension work, MOOG and Ingalls Engineering. If you look through a MOOG catalog, sometimes you will see a part offered as a 'problem solver' part- they are a different design ( in comparison to the O.E. part) that offers a better quality solution to a high wear item, you will see this a lot in the ball joint and tie rod offerings. Ingalls Engineering is the company that actually does the design and R&D work behind those parts so some times you can get the same 'problem solver' part direct from Ingalls for a better price. On these ferds, a prime example is the camber bushings used on the upper BJ.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,113
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From: Northern MN
Raybestos. Put them in my truck this year.
I have heard too many stories of Moog ball joints failing early and not lasting more than a couple years. Raybestos seem to be top of the line quality. I like them.
I have heard too many stories of Moog ball joints failing early and not lasting more than a couple years. Raybestos seem to be top of the line quality. I like them.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Toledo, Ohio
Moog used to be really good... Not so much any more. And I hate to say the same about Timken, but I did wheel bearings 4 times on my car in a matter of 6 months before switching to some NAPA brand. Could just be the Auto Zone Timkens though?
As others have said.... Front U-Joints cause you will be in that far. Wheel bearings wouldnt hurt.
As others have said.... Front U-Joints cause you will be in that far. Wheel bearings wouldnt hurt.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Selah
Napa brand bearings and seals are good. It sucks to see timken and moog loosing ground as quality parts. Some are good and can't be beat but from what I have used regularly have worked out good. I am going to have to look into Ingalls engineering haven't heard of them. I like the ease of autozone especially with their rewards card but they have their down falls in parts quality.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Springfield
Well, i went ahead and purchased all the parts. 4 ball joints, inner/outer tie rod ends. all raybestos.
spent $109 shipped from rockauto. hopefully be able to do this this weekend.
spent $109 shipped from rockauto. hopefully be able to do this this weekend.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Springfield
Hey, another question...
Should i go head and replace all my camber bushings? I dont know of any way to check them, and I know i'll need to get an alignment after I replace all the ball joints and tie-rods.
If i should replace them, what ones should i get? i've seen a few and they all have different +/- to them.
Should i go head and replace all my camber bushings? I dont know of any way to check them, and I know i'll need to get an alignment after I replace all the ball joints and tie-rods.
If i should replace them, what ones should i get? i've seen a few and they all have different +/- to them.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Hartland, WI
Agreed, mark them for reference if needed, and put them in as they came out. Also anti-seize the threads on the adjuster sleeves so the people at the alignment shop don't have to fight too much.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Springfield
Well that's what i'm worried about. Since i don't know how to tell if they're bad or not. I dont want to get ripped off at an alignment shop. Especially since I can do all the repair work myself.
Ya know?
Maybe i'm being overly paranoid.
Ya know?
Maybe i'm being overly paranoid.
