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another spark plug question

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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 10:36 PM
  #16  
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From: Central Kansas
Originally Posted by EXv10
Put some penetrating oil in the plug holes the night before, crack them a little and add more penetrating oil. Cold,lukewarm engine. The biggest problem with those plugs is the carbon below the the chamber surface. (On the plugs).
FWIW, the latest TSB calls for carb cleaner instead of penetrating oil as it breaks up the carbon better. Also calls for a cold engine only.

Originally Posted by brianjordanf250
ok, another question. What is the factory plug, Motorcraft sp 507 or sp 515? I cant seem to find that out. Even in autolite i'm getting conflicting answers to which plug burns hotter, HT1 or HT15, but i have heard from more than one not to use hotter plug.
Well maybe I was wrong, this says that SP515 replaced the 507. Which Plug Part Number? - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 10:54 PM
  #17  
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I used Motorcraft Platinum SP479 in my V10.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 11:43 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by maverick22
FWIW, the latest TSB calls for carb cleaner instead of penetrating oil as it breaks up the carbon better. Also calls for a cold engine only.



Well maybe I was wrong, this says that SP515 replaced the 507. Which Plug Part Number? - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
So, carb cleaner in the plug holes? I was thinking to get the plugs out.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 03:59 AM
  #19  
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Really the only reason to use a hotter plug is when you get the old ones
out and find they are not the light tan color and are dark or your burning
oil. Your not running an engine with a carburetor on it so if for some reason you
found that the plugs looked like you were running rich then you have other
problems that need to be looked into. With the closed loop systems now a days
you should not ever really see a rich condition that is why you have O2 sensors
and a computer to tell the injectors just how much to inject so you right at the
stoichiometric ratio for gasoline. If you change temps you can end up with a
hot spot and have pre-ignition and that would not be good.

Sean
 
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 10:05 AM
  #20  
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From: Central Kansas
Originally Posted by EXv10
So, carb cleaner in the plug holes? I was thinking to get the plugs out.
That's what the latest TSB (08-7-6) calls for - the idea is that the carb cleaner will wick down and dissolve or soften the carbon so the plugs will come out easier. Whether or not it works better than penetrating oil, I don't know but Ford must think it does.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 12:50 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by maverick22
That's what the latest TSB (08-7-6) calls for - the idea is that the carb cleaner will wick down and dissolve or soften the carbon so the plugs will come out easier. Whether or not it works better than penetrating oil, I don't know but Ford must think it does.
Sounds right to me.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:34 PM
  #22  
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so ive never even heard of sp479. I just want my truck to run right. Does anybody know what is the factory plug
 
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:41 PM
  #23  
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sorry bigpigdaddy, dont mean to sound ungrateful, but just how many plugs can they make for 1 motor? I just need the factory plug, i'm usually pretty easy on my baby
 
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:45 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by brianjordanf250
sorry bigpigdaddy, dont mean to sound ungrateful, but just how many plugs can they make for 1 motor? I just need the factory plug, i'm usually pretty easy on my baby
Your biggest criteria is going to be; which plug will not break in 2 pieces next time I change them. If you don't do this right it's going to cost you big bucks!
 
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 11:39 AM
  #25  
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From: Central Kansas
Originally Posted by brianjordanf250
sorry bigpigdaddy, dont mean to sound ungrateful, but just how many plugs can they make for 1 motor? I just need the factory plug, i'm usually pretty easy on my baby
I believe the sp479 was for the older 2 valve engines, they were a one piece plug but not even sure they'll thread into a 3v head. In the Motorcraft line, you want either the sp507 or sp515...and to be honest I'm not sure what the difference exactly is, whether the 515 replaced the 507 or they still make both and the 515 is hotter. Sorry can't be of more help.

You might get more exact help posting this over in the 2004-08 F150 forum, they have the same engine and are probably better versed in the details. 2004 - 2008 F150 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Originally Posted by EXv10
Your biggest criteria is going to be; which plug will not break in 2 pieces next time I change them. If you don't do this right it's going to cost you big bucks!
IMO, the anti-seize is what prevents that. When I first got my truck, I didn't realize the plugs had already been changed, it had a miss and after a coil didn't fix it I was dreading the plugs (turned out to be an injector though). I finally got up the nerve and followed the TSB to the letter - I was shocked when it unscrewed like a new one. You could still see anti-seize on the plug. Now I admit I don't know how long the plugs had been in, but there was some discoloration so they'd been in for a little while anyway.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 12:26 PM
  #26  
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From: Mt. Shasta California
Originally Posted by maverick22
I believe the sp479 was for the older 2 valve engines, they were a one piece plug but not even sure they'll thread into a 3v head. In the Motorcraft line, you want either the sp507 or sp515...and to be honest I'm not sure what the difference exactly is, whether the 515 replaced the 507 or they still make both and the 515 is hotter. Sorry can't be of more help.

You might get more exact help posting this over in the 2004-08 F150 forum, they have the same engine and are probably better versed in the details. 2004 - 2008 F150 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums



IMO, the anti-seize is what prevents that. When I first got my truck, I didn't realize the plugs had already been changed, it had a miss and after a coil didn't fix it I was dreading the plugs (turned out to be an injector though). I finally got up the nerve and followed the TSB to the letter - I was shocked when it unscrewed like a new one. You could still see anti-seize on the plug. Now I admit I don't know how long the plugs had been in, but there was some discoloration so they'd been in for a little while anyway.
Not if there is a lot of carbon past the last thread. You really need to read this thread carefully unless you are rich and have lots of extra time.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 02:19 PM
  #27  
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From: Central Kansas
Originally Posted by EXv10
Not if there is a lot of carbon past the last thread. You really need to read this thread carefully unless you are rich and have lots of extra time.
But that's precisely what the anti-seize is supposed to prevent. The part that always sticks in the head isn't the threaded part, it's the "ground electrode shield" below the threads. With the anti-seize on there, the carbon can't stick as well. Before I took my plug out, believe me, I read everything I could find. I was paranoid.
 
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