Battery Drain Question
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Sophia, NC
Battery Drain Question
52 F1 223 Inline 6 - 6 volt positive ground system.
Cutting to the chase. I left the battery hooked up overnight for the first time.
This morning battery was drained to 5.8 volts and 273 cranking amps. It is a 800 cranking amp battery. I am wondering what could have drained it that low in about 12 hours.
None of the accessaries are hooked up yet. the cigarette lighter, heater blower, courtesy switches and dome light, all not hooked up. Although the wires are there but I have not connected any of them to the actual accessary. Right now they are taped off and there are no naked wires.
The wiper switch is hooked up but is on the switch. The brake lights are hooked up. The headlights are hooked up. The switch was pushed completely in. I am running stock guages.
Here is my clue...The temp sender is a 6 volt unit new from Macs. The thing is that when the battery is not hooked up it sits at H like it should. When I connect the battery it goes to C even though I haven't turn the key. It functions like it should while running.
It is like the switch is live all the time on the GA side. I know the temp guage is my clue I just can't think what could be doing it. Any ideas?
Cutting to the chase. I left the battery hooked up overnight for the first time.
This morning battery was drained to 5.8 volts and 273 cranking amps. It is a 800 cranking amp battery. I am wondering what could have drained it that low in about 12 hours.
None of the accessaries are hooked up yet. the cigarette lighter, heater blower, courtesy switches and dome light, all not hooked up. Although the wires are there but I have not connected any of them to the actual accessary. Right now they are taped off and there are no naked wires.
The wiper switch is hooked up but is on the switch. The brake lights are hooked up. The headlights are hooked up. The switch was pushed completely in. I am running stock guages.
Here is my clue...The temp sender is a 6 volt unit new from Macs. The thing is that when the battery is not hooked up it sits at H like it should. When I connect the battery it goes to C even though I haven't turn the key. It functions like it should while running.
It is like the switch is live all the time on the GA side. I know the temp guage is my clue I just can't think what could be doing it. Any ideas?
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
It sounds like you are on the right track. From what you describe the gauges, ignition, etc are wired hot. Or in other words the ignition switch isn't switching anything.
I can't remember exactly how the stock wiring works but I would start looking at the ignition switch and check to see if the two sides of the switch might be shorted together. Sometimes the old insulation has deteriorated and wires could be touching
Good luck
Bobby
I can't remember exactly how the stock wiring works but I would start looking at the ignition switch and check to see if the two sides of the switch might be shorted together. Sometimes the old insulation has deteriorated and wires could be touching
Good luck
Bobby
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From: Sophia, NC
I rewired the entire thing one wire at a time. I am not saying it was correct to begin with. Right now I have 3 wires on the GA side of the switch. One to the guages, one to the wiper switch and another that I can't remember where it goes but memory serves me right it goes to one of the Amp blocks. looking at all the diagrams I can find there should only be one wire to the guages on the GA side (providing you are not running an electric wiper motor.) There were a couple of toggle switches under the dash when I got it that I trashed in the tear down. One of which was for the heater blower. The other may have been an attempt to wire the wiper. I am thinking this extra wire on the GA side is likely something not needed.
I do understand what you saying about the switch itself. If I turn the engine over with the starter it will not start without turning the key so I thought that the switch was ok. But I guess it could be shorted within in the switch somewhere.
I do understand what you saying about the switch itself. If I turn the engine over with the starter it will not start without turning the key so I thought that the switch was ok. But I guess it could be shorted within in the switch somewhere.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
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From: NM
Are the generator and regulator hooked up? Sometimes a regulator cut-out switch will get stuck shut, and could be draining the battery thru the generator field. Hard to believe a gauge could drain a battery overnight, by itself.
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From: Sophia, NC
Yes the generator and voltage regulator are hooked up. They were wired in a few months ago. This was the first time I left the battery hooked up overnight.
Once I figure out what this extra wire is for, then how do I test the regulator for the condition you are talking about?
The voltage gauge jumps at initial start but settles in the middle after a few minutes. If that is an indication of anything.
Once I figure out what this extra wire is for, then how do I test the regulator for the condition you are talking about?
The voltage gauge jumps at initial start but settles in the middle after a few minutes. If that is an indication of anything.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
Do you own a test light? if not its an easy enough thing to make one with a spare bulb and a couple of pieces of wire. A test light is very handy for chasing elecrical draws. You hook it between the battery cable and the battery (it doesn't matter which side of the battery). If the light lights up (which in this case it will) then you have a draw.
Now you can start disconnecting circuits until you find the one thats keeping the light on.
There's not too many things on these old trucks that will cause a battery draw. As Ross mentioned, the charging system is one, the ignition another, and gauges the third.
Bobby
Now you can start disconnecting circuits until you find the one thats keeping the light on.
There's not too many things on these old trucks that will cause a battery draw. As Ross mentioned, the charging system is one, the ignition another, and gauges the third.
Bobby
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From: Sophia, NC
Yes I have a test light. I didn't get to use it today because the battery was so dead. I just finished charging and putting the battery back in. I hit the starter button and got nothing. The lights work good and strong so battery is ok now.
I am thinking the starter button could have been the open curcuit. Is that possible? Now it burnt itself out? I can test it by jumping a wire across the terminals to see if turns over.
My whole issue today was I going to put antifreeze in the block and radiator, I have been running straight water all summer, and tonight the temps will drop into the upper 20's. I know I would likely be ok for one night but just to be safe I just drained the block.
I did trace the extra wire from the GA side of the switch while waiting for the block to drain and it goes to one of the 15 amp blocks. The same block that the brake switch is wired to.
I am thinking the starter button could have been the open curcuit. Is that possible? Now it burnt itself out? I can test it by jumping a wire across the terminals to see if turns over.
My whole issue today was I going to put antifreeze in the block and radiator, I have been running straight water all summer, and tonight the temps will drop into the upper 20's. I know I would likely be ok for one night but just to be safe I just drained the block.
I did trace the extra wire from the GA side of the switch while waiting for the block to drain and it goes to one of the 15 amp blocks. The same block that the brake switch is wired to.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,599
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From: Rockingham, VA
The stock ignition switch should have only one wire on the GA post which obviously goes to the gauges. You can add anything to that post you want to come on with the switch on, but that's the stock configuration.
I rewired my truck also, and after removing the starter button, which ALWAYS worked before I rewired it, I had nothing when I pressed the button. It's because the body of the switch has to make a good ground connection to the dash, and I disturbed that ground when I moved the switch. I cleaned the paint out of the hole and haven't had that problem since. Good luck!
I rewired my truck also, and after removing the starter button, which ALWAYS worked before I rewired it, I had nothing when I pressed the button. It's because the body of the switch has to make a good ground connection to the dash, and I disturbed that ground when I moved the switch. I cleaned the paint out of the hole and haven't had that problem since. Good luck!
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From: Sophia, NC
I will clean the hole for the switch and try it again. Then unhook the mystery wire from the switch. hopefully that closes the curcuit. it kinds makes sence if you have an unswitched wire running back and jumping over a switched sourse. we'll see. I haven't actually driven it yet other than a few laps around the backyard so the battery really has not gotten a good charge off of the system so it could have been low and the gauge finished it off.
Thanks Bobby, Ross, and Joe for helping work the problem.
Thanks Bobby, Ross, and Joe for helping work the problem.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7,669
Likes: 13
From: San Jose, CA
Did you polarize at the voltage regulator? Also, I've heard that the charging system doesn't really kick in until after about 1500 RPMs. Like Joe said, check your grounds.
I had a similar issue in my truck. I cleaned all of the grounds, had new cables made from 1/0 cable wire, installed everything back, repolarized at the voltage regulator and haven't had any problems.
I had a similar issue in my truck. I cleaned all of the grounds, had new cables made from 1/0 cable wire, installed everything back, repolarized at the voltage regulator and haven't had any problems.
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From: Sophia, NC
Yes I polarized the regulator. I also have 1/0 battery cables from tractor supply. I used 2/0 wire for the block and cab grounds.
I pulled the battery cable when it was running to make sure the generator was functioning properly.
Do you have to repolarize the thing after unhooking or removing the battery each time? Just for future reference.
I pulled the battery cable when it was running to make sure the generator was functioning properly.
Do you have to repolarize the thing after unhooking or removing the battery each time? Just for future reference.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
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From: NM
No, usually only when you've taken the gen apart, or replaced it, or if the system was hooked up backwards while jumpstarting by an ignorant PO.
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,516
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From: W. Central FL.
Good move on draining the block,,,,,,,,and radiator. A few hours is all it takes.
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From: Sophia, NC
I have solved the problem with starter button. I cleaned the area like Joe said and got good ground again. I unhooked the mystery wire and the temp gauge operates as it should. I tested for an open curcuit like Bobby said now there are none. Added anitfreeze and water again. All is seeming well there. I have the battery charger on it to finish getting a full charge.
I got my speedometer cable in today and installed it.
Then....I said what the hell let's go for a ride to the culdesac and back. All downhill about a 1/4 then uphill a 1/4 mile back. i had a little trouble finding second gear there was much more throw in a column shifter than I remembered.
I had my hands so full with the steering that I did not even think to look at the speedometer to see if it was actually working like it should. Not to mention the other gauges. So..Which nut is it that adjusts the steering? the one on the top or the bigger one on the side?
I got my speedometer cable in today and installed it.
Then....I said what the hell let's go for a ride to the culdesac and back. All downhill about a 1/4 then uphill a 1/4 mile back. i had a little trouble finding second gear there was much more throw in a column shifter than I remembered.
I had my hands so full with the steering that I did not even think to look at the speedometer to see if it was actually working like it should. Not to mention the other gauges. So..Which nut is it that adjusts the steering? the one on the top or the bigger one on the side?
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7,669
Likes: 13
From: San Jose, CA
I'll be here all week. Don't forget to tip your waitress.But in all seriousness, glad that you got the battery drain issue figured out.
BTW, haven't forgotten about the front bumper. Just haven't had much time. Sunday should be good, hopefully.