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The big dome nut on the side adjusts sector shaft end play. It's no miracle cure for worn parts, only for worn thrust surfaces on the sector. Have someone saw the wheel back and forth while you watch the pitman arm. If you can see it moving fore/aft or up/down, try adjusting the nut per the manual. Don't just crank down on it.
Your Right! I did feel like a drunk nut trying to saw on the wheel through the "S" curve part of it. I was wondering if the school bus driver that got behind me was going to report a drunk driver on my street.
The speedometer must work because the mileage was 308.4 when I started now it says 309.3.
I am patient so I haven't worried about the bumper. Other than getting it painted,a real exhaust other than flex pipe, and the bed wood installed. The bumper is the last major piece of the puzzle. Ever closer each day.
Will do. Right now it has about what feels like 4" of play.
I have gotten so use today's square cars that it was wierd looking across that curved hood and not seeing the egde of the fenders so it could be more me than anything else. it gave it a dog tracking feel to me.
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
The big dome nut on the side adjusts sector shaft end play. It's no miracle cure for worn parts, only for worn thrust surfaces on the sector. Have someone saw the wheel back and forth while you watch the pitman arm. If you can see it moving fore/aft or up/down, try adjusting the nut per the manual. Don't just crank down on it.
I unhooked the mystery wire and the temp gauge operates as it should.
You should find out what that "mystery wire" is hooked up to.
My truck (as does yours) has electric wipers. They wouldn't work when I got it. I discovered while troubleshooting it that the PO had hooked the "power" supply wire for the switch to frame ground. Wonder why the motor never came on?
Anyway, back on topic, that wire was obviously not supposed to have power on it, or it is pinched to ground somewhere, or connected to a faulty component. You should trace it and discover which is the case.
You should find out what that "mystery wire" is hooked up to.
My truck (as does yours) has electric wipers. They wouldn't work when I got it. I discovered while troubleshooting it that the PO had hooked the "power" supply wire for the switch to frame ground. Wonder why the motor never came on?
Anyway, back on topic, that wire was obviously not supposed to have power on it, or it is pinched to ground somewhere, or connected to a faulty component. You should trace it and discover which is the case.
The 'mystery wire" in my deduction was actually suppose to be the power for the gauges but when the other person worked on the wiring they mistakenly placed it on one the 15 amp breakers. none of my wires had the original colors, they were all faded to white, so in my ignorance I did not catch it when I did the wire for wire swap. I had to add a wire for the power to the gauges. So that wire had continous power running back to the GA side of the switch.
I did try to work on the wipers today while I was under there. I didn't spend alot of time on it but I did clean the area where the switch mounts to see if the switch needed to be grounded also. I did not have the original wiper switch so I picked one up at Carpenters on one of my many trips there. It is a two speed switch. I wired it according to the jeep motor diagram but I have power at the motor but not so much as a hum out of the wiper motor. It is still fun even through some of the frustration.
Congrats on getting the draw fixed and taking a test drive......woooohooo
Its amazing how frustrating these little things can be sometimes but its sure feels good once you get it figured out,
Have fun
Bobby
Thanks for that little tip about the test light between the cable and battery that will be helpful in the future I am sure.
I also recieved my horn relay today so I will install those and wire them in just to get another win under my belt, before I go back to wipers, since it is almost idiot simple.
You're very welcome. Just remember when chasing draws on cars with interior lighting that you need to remember to either remove the dome light fuse or keep the door closed while doing the check.
I used to be pretty good with chasing down electrical gremlins; shorts, opens, and draws way back in the past when I worked as a wrench at a Cadillac dealership. I always kind of enjoyed it.
You're very welcome. Just remember when chasing draws on cars with interior lighting that you need to remember to either remove the dome light fuse or keep the door closed while doing the check.
I used to be pretty good with chasing down electrical gremlins; shorts, opens, and draws way back in the past when I worked as a wrench at a Cadillac dealership. I always kind of enjoyed it.
Bobby
Twice I have been at the local Advance Store and walked by a couple of ladies having their charging systems checked and hearing the advance guys saying there is something drawing power that is going to kill your battery in like 5 hours. Each time I told them to close the door and run the test again. Problem cured each time.
My dome light and courtesy switches will be the last thing I wire in because I did not want to catch myself doing that.
no problem.
What are the "stock" cross years 48 to 52 or beyond?
48-52 F1-F3 are the same. Only difference is in the 51-52 column tube with the 3 spd LD transmission where the shifter is attached to the tubes. Tubes are interchangeable. Box and steering rod (long rod inside the tube) are the same.