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I think if you try this you'd have to go one of two ways, cut out metal or weld metal in to close up the holes:
I would strongly suggest not cutting out metal, you're only going to weaken the structure of the rim. The engineers who design these wheels made them with the least amount of metal cut weight and cost but still hold the load.
If you add metal I'd be afraid of causing metal fatigue from all the welding and grinding along with warpage from all the heat involved.
I think I'd be inclined to leave them alone. Bob's made good points, and to me the 8 lug hub piloted mounting would overwhelm any visual gain from the triangulation of the hand holes. Stu
A bigger visual difference from the originals in the number of holes. In my opinion, the slight visual gain you might get from modifying the shape of the holes wouldn't justify the amount of work and/or risk of the modification.
I wasn't really worried about the lack of strength as these are rated at 3500lb a rim which is stronger than the standard rims on the F-8. I really didn't want to spend 6 hours with the die grinder for little gain.
I wasn't originally going to use hubcentric wheels but I came across a deal on these new take offs for $22 ea! The lug centric wheels aren't terribly easy to find new and the ones I had are junk lockrings.
I just need a few pieces to fall into place and you'll see some BIG progress in the new year....
Wheels in my opinion shouldn't be meddled with. Throw off the weight and balance with it and you're going to have a bad time. Best to find something that looks like what you want rather than change something close, takes some important equipment to make a wheel safe at 75mph. Just think about how small a balance weight on a wheel is, how light it is, then think about how much steel you're removing/adding. If you're a hundredth of an inch off between sections, the balance will be all sorts of crazy. Then you have issues with fractures. Come to think of it I honestly don't know if it is legal to change a wheel. They need to be approved and have a D.O.T. stamp. It's a different type of wheel, but some information on it: http://www.liftlaws.com/are_beadlocks_street_legal.htm
Would '56+ wheels work? Or do you have a different axle setup?
How about inserting metal cutouts and using something like JB Weld or one of those assembly glues -
Just a thought
Nathan - Good to see ya still enjoying these old beasts and for your think outside the box.
The holding characteristics of JB are way overblown in my opinion. I've used it quite a few times, a few to hold something together, the other times as a filler. The few times I've tried using it to hold something together it seemed to work for a short period of time and then failed. Fortunately, the items I tried to hold together weren't something that would have been a catastrophic failure. I wouldn't think of using it for the wheels. Those little bits of metal would turn into shrapnel at 65 mph.
I say use paint and make them look like triagles from ten feet away
I'm with Bob and Stephen on this. Even when a top wheel designer comes up with something new (Chip Foose, Boyd Coddington *RIP*, etc.) there is an engineer that has to sign off before it goes to production.
I'd be afraid cutting, grinding, or welding would change the metal characteristics and make the wheel dangerous.
As far as your original question, the looks of the wheel: Personally, I would notice the four holes instead of five, before I noticed the shape. Your mileage may vary.
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