not again :(
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,298
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Usually best to post a question (and only once) after you have exhausted your own research efforts.
Let me google that for you
Let me google that for you
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Cuba, AL (NO internet)
and me trying to stop an argument to you was offensive. no i don't get that. and i said thanks several times. i honestly was just trying to help the argument end. sorry. i can assure you it won't happen again.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,965
Likes: 261
From: East KY
Wayne, I see what you're trying to say. And I understand it. Numberdummy goes back a long way with this forum and all of us. That wasn't the first spirited debate I've had with him. He loves to go after us sometimes and stir things up, and I added to the debate. It's all good there. I appreciate you trying to intervene, but it just came off as something else, especially with you repeating the question. Even though I'm having lots of fun with this, my eyelids are getting heavy, and sportscenter has repeated about 3 times now here on the TV. Here, let me buy you a beer. I'm going to bed. 
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Looking at the links in Ross's google search, it looks like it makes more sense to buy one of the 100% brand new Offenhouser pumps from Speedway for 49.00 than to buy a rebuild kit for up to 64.00. One of the problems is that the older diaphrams and seals are not compatible with today's 10% E unleaded fuels and deteriorate rapidly. Same with the carbs.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,298
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Since he's already 12v, the electric probably makes sense, but the "quality" rebuild kits are also made with modern materials. The problem is knowing if you're getting a "quality" kit.
I can't recall it being mentioned (at least recently) but any electric pump conversion should include an oil pressure switch that kills the pump power when oil pressure goes away. This keeps the pump from running in an accident, or when the line ruptures and is gushing gas all over the engine.
I can't recall it being mentioned (at least recently) but any electric pump conversion should include an oil pressure switch that kills the pump power when oil pressure goes away. This keeps the pump from running in an accident, or when the line ruptures and is gushing gas all over the engine.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,995
Likes: 422
From: u-rah-rah Wisconsin
Unless I missed something with all the back and forth - doesn't appear that the line from the tank to the pump was checked. If you haven't done so, this needs to be done. From my experience, a new pump - electric or otherwise - cannot overcome a clogged line.
DW
DW
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Cuba, AL (NO internet)
I took the line from the tank to the pump off this morning. My plan was to blow into it as suggested and see if i got bubbles or nothing. So I let the line drop down so I could reach it from the drivers door and listen in the tank...Not necessary. As soon as the line hit the ground nice clean gas ran out at full speed. Had nothing in my hand or within reach to plug it with so a good gallon ran out. Finally got it plugged so I could reconnect it. I took the glass bowl off and filled it with gas and put a little in the carb. It did the usual fire up for two seconds then stop. The pump isn't moving fuel. I know nothing about the above mentioned priming of the system by blowing into the tank. So I guess I need to know that. I also found that my NAPA buddy can get me a new pump so that is good. Never primed a tank before nor have i ever needed to or heard of that so what am i missing? Thanks to all.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,298
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
If the line was stock, it would be steel right up to fuel pump level, with a short piece of rubber from the firewall to the pump. Since you described it as "falling to the ground" I'm assuming someone has replaced the steel line with rubber to at least down near frame level? The pump won't be able to suck the fuel up if there is a leak at the joint between rubber hose and steel line. Check the rubber hose carefully, look for leaks all along the system.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Cuba, AL (NO internet)
If the line was stock, it would be steel right up to fuel pump level, with a short piece of rubber from the firewall to the pump. Since you described it as "falling to the ground" I'm assuming someone has replaced the steel line with rubber to at least down near frame level? The pump won't be able to suck the fuel up if there is a leak at the joint between rubber hose and steel line. Check the rubber hose carefully, look for leaks all along the system.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Can't say I've ever heard of the need to prime the pump. Gravity takes care of most of it, the pump should be able to draw the rest of the way. Check the rubber line by giving it a squeeze, if it feels spongy, replace it. If it is old line the new gas can make it soft enough to suck shut, but my money is on the fuel pump being bad, ruptured diaphram or stuck, missing, obstructed check ball or spring. If you put your finger over the inlet on the pump, you should be able to feel the suction when the engine turns over.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Hate to say I told you so:
AXracer post 22: If there was gas in the tank and it didn't run out when you disconnected the line to the fuel pump, it's likely the line is plugged. Blow the line back to the tank with compressed air and gas should start to run out. Be prepared to catch what's in the tank and/or plug the line until you can hook it back to the fuel pump.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,222
Likes: 6
From: Houston
I hesitate to chime in on this spirited conversation, but I once had a small leak in a fitting that allowed the system to suck air instead of gas. Mine would start and run for a few minutes and then shut down. Gas didn't leak but air got in. How I don't know but it drove me crazy for a month before we got lucky and figured it out.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Cuba, AL (NO internet)
lol 
yeah if I had remembered that I wouldn't smell like Exxon right now. Washed up about 5 times but still have fumes.
yeah if I had remembered that I wouldn't smell like Exxon right now. Washed up about 5 times but still have fumes.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Cuba, AL (NO internet)
I hesitate to chime in on this spirited conversation, but I once had a small leak in a fitting that allowed the system to suck air instead of gas. Mine would start and run for a few minutes and then shut down. Gas didn't leak but air got in. How I don't know but it drove me crazy for a month before we got lucky and figured it out.
I also googled, binged, and otherwise didn't find anything on the little check ball in the fuel pump glass bowl area. I assume that is supposed to be free to move back and forth in the little channel its in? I noticed with all the moving around mine never moved.