Well, the title says it all. There was never any problem turning the ignition to accessory position until yesterday when it decided it just won't turn to that position. It just hits a wall like there is no position after "off". Other than that (so far) it works fine in "on" and "start" positions. I could live without "accessory" but I'm wondering if this is an indication that something more serious is failing. Don't want to get stuck out in the desert with a no start or no run problem. I searched the 150 and big Bronco forums but didn't turn up this specific problem. Anyone else ever see this one?

I haven't posted here for a long time because nothing has broken on the old Bronco that I couldn't figure out. Been through a high pressure fuel pump, and a failed plug on the rollover switch that got me stuck on the road. The old gal is getting a little long in the tooth, has over 150,000 miles now. She's starting to come up with little quirks. Any help on this ignition switch gremlin would be appreciated.

 

It's one of two things. Either the ignition switch has slid down the steering column, in which case you will have to drop the column and loosen the two nuts, slide the switch up and tighten or the ignition actuator behind the steering wheel is bent or broken in which case you will have to remove the steering wheel to replace. The actuator is a ten dollar part and relatively easy to replace.

 

Thanks a lot. I'll try dropping the column and if I need to, pull the steering wheel. Is that actuator something that's pretty much a dealer only item, or do the usual places like Auto Zone carry them? Where I live (rural) there's an Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, Car Quest, and NAPA. Also a Ford dealer in town but I try to avoid them

 

i just replaced mine and you can buy them at any auto parts store they come with a pin in them that holds them in the right position to install do not remove the pin and fallow the instructions that come tith the switch. good luck

 

The ignition actuator can be had at most any auto parts store. It is usually in the "HELP" section. Costs $9.99 and depending mechanical level will take about 1/2 hour to replace. I'll admit I didn't install mine they way it should be done. I didn't tear my column apart completely and ended cutting the actuator down a bit to make it work. I'm not sure what it effected in doing so but it makes no mind to me cause every thing works just fine. The other thing you have to worry about is not to lose the roll pin that holds the ignition rod in place. Just take your time and be patient

These Youtube will be helpful. They helped guide me though my replacement
Part 1 http://youtu.be/GfRFggOtyNw
Part 2 http://youtu.be/GfRFggOtyNw

The part looks like this

 

Looks like something I can handle. In the video, the little square rod that he pulls out separately, that is the lower part of the actuator and is separate because it broke off, right? My Bronco is an automatic, so I guess I can't cut off part of it like in the manual shifter models. Hope I can still get the new one in without dismantling the whole thing.

 

Yes that's the part that has broken off in the column. I'll tell ya now though, as soon as you can pull the broken piece out, do so before it gets bumped and pushed back in. It becomes a pain in the rear to get back out without some creativity, some cuss words and a kick in the rear for not thinking to pull it out sooner.

Mine's an automatic as well and I had the same issue with having to cut the end of the new actuator off to make it work without tearing down more of the steering assembly. I'm not sure what the rest of that piece does. Mine still works without the extra little bit. I start the truck every morning just fine.

 

I sure appreciate all the good tips. I'm going to go out and take a look at mine today. I went ahead and picked up the actuator yesterday. At $10 it's cheap insurance to keep on hand even if mine isn't broken yet.

 

Be sure to check the ignition switch first to make sure it hasn't slipped.

 

Well, I found out today, after yanking the wheel and Ignition lock assembly that my actuator is fine, the switch is in place, and what I have is a bad lock assembly. Even with only the bare collar that holds the lock assembly, and only one part in it, the gear drive piece that links with the lock/tumbler assembly, it still refused to go into accessory position. With the collar out of the car, my son found that with enough twisting force it would snap into acc position (with a hard snap). Way too much effort to be normal though. So I reassembled it all, it still works the same, but I think if I pick up a new lock assembly and keys, which I can change out in a couple of minutes, I'll be done with it. At least I know what's involved in replacing the actuator if mine ever does break. Thanks for the info and the link to youtube for the video on changing the actuator. Knowledge is good!

 

Just a follow up in case someone else runs into this particular problem. Yesterday I got the new ignition lock with keys. Rockauto.com, $21.00 including shipping. Took about a minute to remove the old one and pop in the new one. Problem solved. Key now goes to all positions as smooth as silk.

 

Just to bring this up to the top and to share some things I've found since my last post on the subject:

1. Replacing the ignition lock/key assembly back in 2012 permanently cured my original problem where it wouldn't turn to the accessory position.

2. Recently the key got harder and harder to turn to the start position. Finally it just would not engage the solenoid/starter. If I jumped the solenoid with the key in the on position it would fire right up. I temporarily rigged a remote starter switch to the solenoid and let it dangle out of the grille. Turn key to on, go out and push the remote button and it would fire right up. Today I dropped the column and got ready to install a new actuator, thinking that was the problem. First I checked the position of the ignition switch, it had not slipped. Working the key showed me the actuator was doing just fine. Not broken. I pulled the old switch off the column and found that it was taking a huge amount of effort to slide it to the start position. Went to the parts store, bought a new switch for $12, installed it, and now it's starting fine and with much less effort at the key. So, even though those actuators are prone to breaking, it's not always the problem. And I'm happy to say replacing the switch was a whole lot easier than replacing the actuator.

3. While researching another forum (FullSizeBronco.com) I found great illustrated instructions on the actuator replacement. Most valuable find (for me) was an explanation of what happens if you cut the end off the new actuator to make it easier to replace. What that end part does is lock the transmission in park (auto trans) when the key is off. If you cut off the end, you'll find you can change through PRNDL even with the key removed. No big thing, because the neutral safety switch still keeps her from starting in gear.

Hope this info helps someone to avoid some work.