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Answer to no "Gen" idiot light after one-wire alternator install
Hello all, I installed a one-wire alternator and lost my idiot light.
I bought a low voltage sensor (LS-11) unit from Ron Francis Wiring, which is designed just for this application.
Here's the question: The indicator needs to hook up to a 12 volt keyed power source. What do you recommend for this? Any guesses which color wire I would look for, and where it is?
I'm pretty sure the other wire I need, besides ground, is the yellow/black wire that goes to the dash light itself...
I appreciate any assistance to save me some trial and error. I will document this to assist others in the future.
So, can anyone give me a tip to find the easiest switched 12v source?
Easiest way to find a switched 12v source is with a test light. Pick one up at any auto-parts place, Harbor freight or on line. Learn how to use it. (look up "How to use an automotive test light) Then start checking wires.
man, i wish you'd posted before installing a 1-wire...i'd have tried to talk you out of it.
but to your question- keyed 12v. if you need one inside the cab, the easiest/cleanest way is to tap into the fuse block. use the radio fuse, or something along those lines. you can use one of these:
If you are looking for switched 12v under the dash then try the back of the ignition. It has a threaded rod that is switched 12v from what I remember. I used a multi-meter to find one when adding a tach a few weeks ago and ended up using that.
Thanks guys for a couple of good options. I think I have one of those fuse taps on the fusebox already. I will get this figured out as soon as I get the time.
the irony here is that to maintain the functionality of the OEM 3-wire alternator, you must add some special bits to your one-wire install...meaning that its no longer really as simple as it sounds...
man, i wish you'd posted before installing a 1-wire...i'd have tried to talk you out of it.
but to your question- keyed 12v. if you need one inside the cab, the easiest/cleanest way is to tap into the fuse block. use the radio fuse, or something along those lines. you can use one of these: Amazon.com: Wirthco 30200 Fuse Tap Kits- Agc: Automotive
my radio is long gone, so i used one of the tap kits to tie into that fuse, and power my gauges.
what is meant "talk you out of it?"
what don't you like here
jetcopterpilot, You are right that a volt meter is a better solution. I just thought I'd keep the original idiot light for the sake of originality. I like the clean look of the dash with no extra or aftermarket gauges. No tachometer for me!
I think this Delco alternator will be very reliable and last a long time, knock on wood. The thing I like the best about it is eliminating the original voltage regulator. And yes I know the 1-wire alt has a regulator.
I will hook up this low voltage sensor soon. First, I want to figure out why my coil is not getting full voltage...
jetcopterpilot, You are right that a volt meter is a better solution. I just thought I'd keep the original idiot light for the sake of originality. I like the clean look of the dash with no extra or aftermarket gauges. No tachometer for me!
I think this Delco alternator will be very reliable and last a long time, knock on wood. The thing I like the best about it is eliminating the original voltage regulator. And yes I know the 1-wire alt has a regulator.
I will hook up this low voltage sensor soon. First, I want to figure out why my coil is not getting full voltage...
Most of the one wire alternators have a removeable rubber plug on the back and behind it is two contacts that can convert it into a 3 wire application. the one to the left is where your Alt Light wire would hook in. if that helps you. Mine had this option, and it has worked great. Light on at start up, and then off as soon as the Alt is doing it's job. With a one wire alternator, it will not start charging until you put it under load ie; rev the engine up a bit... so if you start your engine and it remains at idle, you are not charging, just give it a quick rev and then it will charge at idle! I have a 140 amp one wire from tuff stuff, it has been awesome!
these guys explain it way better than i could: Catalog
its worth reading.
personally, i don't like things that can't be easily replaced by a trip to the nearest parts store, in case i run into trouble while on the highway.
I have dealt with the guys at Mad enterprises what a rip off! Their page that you posted is there to promote selling their products.... Go look at the wiring harness that they sell for the 3 wire conversion... a few butt connectors and 3 pieces of wire about 5 ft long... all in all about $3 worth of material and a page that shows you how to hook it together for $27.95 before shipping..... their info page also has an awful lot of untruths ( Lies if you prefer) pretty much Any GM 10SI or 12SI can be adapted to a standard 3 wire set up... and many to a one wire set up... and you can pick up 10SI and 12SI alternators at damn near every parts store Quite often for around $30... it is a matter of preference... but introducing info that is not correct or partially correct doesn't help him make a decision, or answer his question... it just confuses the matter