Key on, no electricity
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Key on, no electricity
I have a 2001 super duty F250. It has always ran great until a few weeks ago. I dont drive it much due to the
price of fuel. I have tried several times to get it to start over the last few weeks. What happens is that when I
open the doors, everything seems to be working. Dome light comes on, dinger dings etc. But when I turn the
key to start the engine, all the electrical power goes out. When I turn the key back off, the dinger sounds like it
would if the battery were low and the dome light flashes on and off. I can hear a relay clicking almost like the
turn signal sound. That lasts for about 5-10 seconds or so and then everything seems to return to normal. At
first I thought the battery was bad, so I put a brand new one in it. That didnt work. I was told maybe a ground
problem so I checked the ground cable from end to end. I found one spot about halfway through that was
supposed to be bolted to the frame and wasnt, so I fixed it. Still no luck. The battery isnt corroded and all
connections are tight. Anyone have any ideas?
price of fuel. I have tried several times to get it to start over the last few weeks. What happens is that when I
open the doors, everything seems to be working. Dome light comes on, dinger dings etc. But when I turn the
key to start the engine, all the electrical power goes out. When I turn the key back off, the dinger sounds like it
would if the battery were low and the dome light flashes on and off. I can hear a relay clicking almost like the
turn signal sound. That lasts for about 5-10 seconds or so and then everything seems to return to normal. At
first I thought the battery was bad, so I put a brand new one in it. That didnt work. I was told maybe a ground
problem so I checked the ground cable from end to end. I found one spot about halfway through that was
supposed to be bolted to the frame and wasnt, so I fixed it. Still no luck. The battery isnt corroded and all
connections are tight. Anyone have any ideas?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: St Louis
Gassers only have one battery. He didn't identify his engine.
Sounds like a bad cable or cable connection. Need to get out the multimeter and check for voltage drop in the power cables when under load.
Sounds like a bad cable or cable connection. Need to get out the multimeter and check for voltage drop in the power cables when under load.
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Sorry for not getting back for so long. Been busy. I have a V-10 engine in my truck. The Battery is brand new and fully charged. I have checked the ground cables and all seem to be attached and in good condition. I have not checked the cables from the solenoid to the starter or anything yet, but Im not sure that would affect the clicking relay sound that I hear. All I do is turn the key to the "On" or "Run" position and the power goes out. I really believe its a simple fix, but just not sure where to look. I have a code reader (one of the good ones) but it will only work if the power stays on, which it doesnt. Does any of this make any sense?
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Fully Charged. Even put a 2 amp charger on for a couple of days just to make damn sure it was charged. Seeing about 12.5V with the key off. If you need to know with key on, I will go out and check it quick. Thanks.
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From: St Louis
Basic voltage drop testing 101
Get an assistant to turn the key and a digital voltmeter.
Connect a digital voltmeter across what should be a solid, direct connection and watch the meter while the starter or other high current load is engaged. A faulty connection or cable will show a voltage reading greater than 1/4 volt, even up to the bulk of the battery voltage. A good connection will show less than 1/4 volt of drop.
Typical testing points are:
Battery negative post to engine block
Battery positive post to starter relay
Battery positive to starter motor
Battery positive to input of fuse box
etc
Just keep testing across what should be zero ohm connections (which would have 0 volts dropped across it) until you find the portion of the circuit that shows a large voltage across what should be a direct connection. The excessive resistance or open circuit is then identified.
Connect a digital voltmeter across what should be a solid, direct connection and watch the meter while the starter or other high current load is engaged. A faulty connection or cable will show a voltage reading greater than 1/4 volt, even up to the bulk of the battery voltage. A good connection will show less than 1/4 volt of drop.
Typical testing points are:
Battery negative post to engine block
Battery positive post to starter relay
Battery positive to starter motor
Battery positive to input of fuse box
etc
Just keep testing across what should be zero ohm connections (which would have 0 volts dropped across it) until you find the portion of the circuit that shows a large voltage across what should be a direct connection. The excessive resistance or open circuit is then identified.
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Thanks for the tip. Its gettin dark here so I'll have to try that stuff tomorrow. So if I go from Battery Positive to the starter and it tests bad, then do I assume the cable is to blame or the starter itself? Or would they need to be tested individually when removed from the engine?
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From: Stephensville WI
The first thing I would try, since the battery is brand new, is cleaning the terminal connections with a terminal cleaner. They are inexpensive tools that look like this picture, and can be purchased for under $5.
Scrub the battery posts and the cable end connectors real good, get any dirt or corrosion out of there.
Scrub the battery posts and the cable end connectors real good, get any dirt or corrosion out of there.
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Thanks Redford. I did that already though. Everything is nice and shiny. That used to work though, but now it doesnt. Which is why I think I have a different problem this time. Sad thing is, I just want to get it running so I can sell it off and get a diesel to pull my camper with. Just my luck :P
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Phoenix, Az
I had a similar problem a few years back. Everything tested good til I turned the key to start position. It dropped dead. Let go of the key, and everything was ok again. It turned out to be the positive cable to the started had a bad spot in it. New cable, and all was well again.
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Thanks for the tip Dave. I hadnt actually fully checked the positive cable since I was originally thinking I had a ground issue. I guess if the positive cable is grounding out, that would make it a ground issue anyway huh? lol I'll check that first thing in the morning.