Running great down the hiway @ 75 mph and died like you turned off the key...Would crank over srtong but not start...Towed to buddies house and used a friends scanner...Got a hydralic open circut code and was told to change out IPR...Changed out IPR and it started normally...Drove 9 miles home and parked for the night...Got in it the next day and less than a mile from the house died again, just like you turned the key off...After about 15 minutes it started normally and returned to the house...It would start and then die at different times...The last time, it started and I let it idle in the yard for over an hour...Got in the truck and a little over a mile and it died again...Mechanic buddy came by but didn't have the right scanner so he replaced the CPS...Would not start, replaced with another CPS that he uses to test with and still no start....He tested all fuses and relays and they checked good...Checked fuel bowl and it is refilling normaly...Called and told me he thought it was IPR valve again...This is what I have done so far

1. Changed IPR valve again, connector looks good
2. changed oil and filter..
3. Verified LPOP is working (Oil pressure gauge works on long start attempt and HPOP is staying full)
4. Unpluged ICP and attempted to start...Would not start
5. Rechecked fuses and relays
6. Checked driver side harness for chaffs (under Air Box) Replaced Air filter while there
7. Checked connections @ valve covers for UVCWH (looked good)

Buddy with scanner is out of town... Is there anything else I can check while waiting for him to scann the truck again

Sorry for the long post but wanted to give you guys all the background

 

Do you have the code number handy, so I can help diagnose the problem? Are you getting a SES light?

 

Don't remember the code number...Whats an ses light

 

I lost track of who has this... did you check that last link in my signature?

 

Service Engine Soon

 

All dash lits cycle like there supposed to including the wts light

 

SES= Service Engine Soon
CEL= Check Engine Light
Most people interchange these terms but they generally mean the same thing.
The closest person to you with AE that could help you is in Houston, TX. That is over 115 miles away from Orange, TX.
What is the voltage when the glow plugs turn on? The glow plugs stay on after the Wait to start light goes out just so you know.
What is the voltage while cranking? You need a minimum of 10.5 volts for the PCM to send a signal to the Injector Driver Module to fire the injectors.
If you had Auto Enginuity you would be able to look at Injector Control Pressure and Injector Pressure Regulator Duty cycle. This could tell us a lot about what is going on.
I know it has idled and then just dies when you give it throttle but now it will not start at all. Man, that AE would be nice right now instead of having to wait on a buddy to help you out.
Can you measure the voltage while you are cranking and let us know what it is?
Also....have you recharged the batteries since you have had the no start?
Is the tin nut tight on the IPR and is it tight? What is the resistance of the coil on the IPR? The tin nut holds the coil in place on the IPR shaft.
Is there white smoke while cranking?
How many miles on this machine?
OK. That ought to get you started in the right direction.
Dwayne

 

Did you check the harness connection on the Inside of the valve covers or on the outside of the valve covers?
The ones to be checking are the Under Valve Cover Harness (UVCH) This would involve removing the valve covers. This would not keep you from starting but would make it run rough and a possible hard start due to unplugged Glow plugs and or unplugged fuel injectors. Keep us informed.

 

Did u have the recall for the cps?

 

bad PCM maybe?

 

Bad PCM and bad IDM are Very, Very, Very RARE. Very RARE.

 

Sounds like cam sensor. They had a recall on it a while back.

 

Did this get resolved? I have the same issue: no start, no smoke. Replaced ICP, still no start.

 

What is your battery voltage while cranking? If it is not greater than 10.5 volts then you may need to have your batteries tested or your alternator tested.
AE is the real cure. Plug AE in. Check codes. Check done. Monitor ICP duty cycle and ICP while cranking. If IPR duty cycle greater than about 25% then it is the IPR. Problem solved. But you need AE to troubleshoot.
Dwayne

 

Thank you! Batts are good, already did the ICP. Gotta get the AE...until then. Don't have a 29mm socket for the IPR...fuel pump??? My fuel pressure gauge reads 0 but not sure it reads anything until after the engine starts.