i have a 92 f150 with a 302 in it. i got the truck from my uncle and it sat for three years. the first thing i did was pull the box and cleaned the front fuel tank and replaced the back one and put new fuel pumps in and a fuel filter. it has a new fuel pressure regulator in it and it is getting a pulse to the injectors, i even changed the eec just to be sure. it will pop off of starting fluid then die. any advice? should i just take the plenum off and change out the injectors?

 

you changed the EEC? Did you make sure to get one compatible with your engine/tranny combo? Also, try pulling the codes. This will also tell you if the EEC is working properly. If you don't get codes, the EEC needs to be replaced.

Also could be timing...since it's been sitting so long, no telling what someone has done to it. Pull the codes first.

 

i dont have a scanner to pull codes, the eec i used was out of a junked 91, same thing. i havent fully checked the timing, but why is it that it would fire as soon as it has starting fluid but refuse to start?

 

oh sorry, forgot to mention that my uncle was driving it before he parked it then it fell on the back burner for his projects, so it was running when it was parked

 

OK, I didn't read fully the part about the fluid, thought it said something else.

There's a way to pull the codes using a paperclip, I have done it before but forgot how since I have a code reader. I'll see if I can find those instructions.

EDIT: here to pull codes with no reader - http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

 

I would greatly appreciate that!

 

When you say it is getting a pulse to the injectors...can you tell me exactly how you tested that? With the key on, the injectors will always have +12v to one wire.

 

i used a noid light and cranked it over to see if they were getting the pulse, cause i was affraid that i would have to change the pip in the distributor

 

OK, should be fine there. Many people aren't aware these work off a duty cycle so you will always see the +12v with key on. It's only when the injector needs to fire the EEC will close the circuit for a short time to fire the injector

 

With no other noise around and the engine not running take a 9 Volt battery and put it to an injector. You should hear a "click" when you put the battery on it. If it does not click you have stuck injector or an open one.

If they all click then you will have to put a fuel pressure gauge on it and check the fuel pressure.

Do you hear the selected fuel tanks pump run for one second each time you turn on the key?

 

[QUOTE=subford;12410736]With no other noise around and the engine not running take a 9 Volt battery and put it to an injector. You should hear a "click" when you put the battery on it. If it does not click you have stuck injector or an open one.

If they all click then you will have to put a fuel pressure gauge on it and check the fuel pressure.

Do you hear the selected fuel tanks pump run for one second each time you turn on the key?[/I have 35 pounds on the rail and all I got was a code 32 evap sensor or circuit below .24 volts I do have fuel pumps working like they should QUOTE]

 

I don't see why the egr would not let it start...but I'm thinkin of taking the plenum off and checking all my injectors

 

I find it easier to check the injectors when they are still in the engine. I've had many bad injectors that physically look just fine and good injectors that look terrible.

You can ohm them with a multimeter, but that just tells you if the windings are ok, and I've had ones that ohm fine cold, but not at operating temp. On the other hand, if they ohm bad, they are bad.

An ohm test won't tell you if they are stuck open or not firing though. For that you need a fuel pressure guage, and the battery subford suggested or jumpers from your battery.

You should be able to prime the system by turning the key without starting the truck, might have to do it a couple of time to get good a good pressure reading on the fuel pressure guage.

If you can't hold pressure on the guage without the truck running you may have one or more injectors stuck open. A bad regulator, check valve, or pump could cause this as well but we can assume your new parts are good for the time being.

If you can hold pressure, or once you get to where you can, watch the guage while you fire the injector with the battery or jumper. The pressure should drop quickly if the injector is good. Cycle the key and move to the next injector.

This method works good to check an injector when you have a misfire code as well. I would normally suggest starting the engine every 2 or 3 injectors to keep it from flooding, but since yours doesn't start you can't really do that.
If you can find an injector plug from another wiring harness and leave a foot or so of wire on it, it makes firing the injectors a lot easier.

Also, will the engine actually run on starting fluid, or just pop? Its not a good idea to run an engine very long on starting fluid, but long enough to check the ignition system won't hurt it. I keep a large towel handy in case of fire, and an extinguisher nearby as well. I've had to use the towel a couple times when more cranking wouldn't pull the fire out, but so far never needed the extinguisher.

Also, what do the plugs look like?

 

The plugs were wet everytime I pulled them, but are in good shape. I have a donor truck I've been robbing parts from so I can steal a connector from so that will help. oh and yes the engine will run on starting fluid, but I don't like doing that to it. The truck already will not hold full pressure on the rail. But should be enough to do the test

 

if the plugs are always wet, and it wont hold full pressure. You shouldpull the vacume off the fuel pressure regulator and make sure fuels not leaking through it. Also did you clear the fuel lines when you cleaned the tank?